Does anyone know who sells a star punch that I can use on 1/4 steel. I have a set of letters and numbers but need a star. Any ideas? I found one here but looks like they are out of stock. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43456&p=46350
A buddy of mine used to sell them on ebay his name was "Hemmingwaytech" I emailed him to see if he still had some.
And expect that their customer list will be reviewed by the FBI. That stamp is also used to "re-decorate" 1970-* Harley Davidson chassis and engines.
Fiddy, do you have experience with this? Others say it is a near identical match. I don't have any experience myself so I really don't know, just what I have read. http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119958
I used the one that mcMaster carr sells and is very close, chp inspector didnt give it a second look,
i would go with a model "A" vendor , most likely the correct size . vintage ford - mikes - snyders , etc ................ steve also dont advertise what your doin
Fiddy, I bought one from McMaster-Carr and stamped it right next to the factory star on my chassis and it was a dead on match. I even laid it into the impression from the factory and it felt like a perfect snug fit. I posted this several years ago and no one balked at it then. On top of that, I paid $12 for the same thing that I saw at a Model A Club sponsored swap meet for $85. Capitalism at it's finest...
I was able to confirm that I got a 1/4" star. The key to stamping the number is irregularity. The guys who stamped the numbers on the line had seconds to do it. They weren't real concerned with aesthetics...
First, a true VIN did not start until 1981. Prior to this, they were all serial numbers. Serial numbers were not standardized and they were found in different locations and were coded completely different from one auto manufacturer to another. States didn't even have a standard, as many used frame numbers, body numbers, engine numbers and could have varied the model year on a title buy the manufacturers serial number or by the date the vehicle was sold. Frames and engines are service items. Some areas of the body that were stamped could be considered service items. If a car was damaged in an accident, it was standard repair procedure (and still is today) to buy a used frame or body section to complete repairs. I wrote to replace a frame on a F-150 last September with a used one. I wrote for a new aluminum frame on a '06 Ford GT ($71,951!!!). If there is a hidden VIN on those frames, they will either be different or not there. If Joe Hot Rod buys an aftermarket frame from TCI for his '37 Ford, it's far better to stamp the serial number in the frame than not have one on the car at all. I don't consider this fraud. It's pretty obvious the frame was replaced. In the insurance business, I see many old hot rods that have no serial number what so ever. I think this will create more problems than transfering the serial number on the replacement frame. I will say this; if you were fortunate to have the original frame with your car when you started, I would suggest getting photos of the frame after being removed from the car and pictures of the serial number on it. The problem with this? If you have a good vintage frame, I'm a big believer in passing good used parts down to the restoration crowd if possible. But the stamped serial number is going with it. This could, in theory, lead to two cars having the same VIN, and the one on the original frame would probably trump a restamp on an aftermarket frame. I'd probably cut out the serial number and keep that section for your records, or lay some weld over the old stamping making it impossible for someone else to reuse those numbers. Of course, a serial number plate was also on the bellhousing or transmission on many early Fords as well. Again, if you have the original part, I would either keep the assembly or the plate. If you have a plate, I'd try to transfer it to an easily visible portion of your transmission. If you have nothing but a piece of paper, at least document your build and your original purchase. The idea is to protect yourself against theft and from harassement from your state DMV. If you bought a basket case, take lots of pictures. Now a days, most states are more concerned about the taxes being paid. Keep track of your purchases, or at least the large ones. You don't want to go into a DMV with a completely finished car with no invoices for your parts. After paying sales tax on the locally bought parts, you could end up paying again if the car looks like a recent purchase.
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