figured I'd ask if anyone was interested in building something way on the cheap and still make something cool. I'm in So. Cal. so maybe my version is a little different from the rest of the country, but I figured I'd ask for input. I've been taking pics and keeping track of what I've spent and traded for (LOTS of trading!). Most people that use this site build their own stuff and I thought I'd kick in my 2 cents worth for a cheap little "work" truck project. This is what the truck looks like at the moment (bad phone pic as I haven't brought the chip in to download them from the <NOBR>camera</NOBR>) I see lots of VERY nice trucks in here and after a 3 1/2 year frame up on a bad nasty 72 'Camino I decided to do something quick AND cheap. I'll tell all if anyone is interested... Here's a front view.
Always look forward to build threads... no matter how expensive or budget, you're going to learn something...
Ok... Here goes. I figured I'd start from the back and work my way forward. The wheels I used are Halibrand copies (15x10 & 15x6) I got on Ebay for a little more than $500. The tires are 275/60 & 205/60 for the right rake/look. I needed a narrowed rearend to make the tires fit, but this is where being cheap means being creative. An S-10 rearend would work, but is 1 1/2" too narrow for a wheel/tire with 4 1/2" of total backspace. So I scored a rearend with a plan. Look at the numbers on the glovebox to find out the ratio. I found one with the GU6 code (3:42) with the numbers G80 after (POSI) for next to nothing at our local Pick & Pull. I again went to Ebay for some 1/2" racing wheel studs (around 2 1/4 long about $30) and a set of 3/4" wheel spacers ($35 for the pair). I knocked out the studs with a hammer. Tapped the existing holes (KEEP THEM STRAIGHT) with a 1/2"x20 tap, removed the wheel cylinder (took out the 2 bolts and pulled it back) and screwed in the studs from the back (use washers and some red lock-tite). Now I have my poor mans narrowed rear w/posi and never removed the axles! Here's what it looks like from the inside. Since this is on the cheap, I'll share my mini tub plan as it goes together. As far as the rear suspension I kind of went against my cheap plan, but the deal was too good to pass up. I scored a brand new TCI rear lowered spring kit in the local paper for $300. I know it kind of backfires my plan, but it's $500 new, so what's a guy to do? I mounted the kit w/3" lowering blocks (I scored from a 4x4 friend for free) to get my basic setup. Figured I'd get it rough and if it was too low, I could always go to a 2" block. So here's how it looked mocked up in place. Now I'm digging it!
Now on to the front! Here's clip I started with after scraping and steam cleaning it. Got it for nothing and it's same suspension stuff as the S-10, so I scored some cheapie ($100 AIM) 2" drop spindles. Next, I took the springs out and used a piece of 12"x 3/8" all thread to set the suspension to ride height (nuts and washers in the shock hole top and some strap on both sides on the bottom. I looked under the car before I cut the front end off to see where the a-arms sat (parallel across the bottom) to have a reference point.
I went with the 81 Malibu front suspension for 2 reasons: it was cheap (free)and was almost 3/4" narrower track width than a Camaro so the wheels would be a little more inboard. Now came the tricky part. The biggest thing on doing a clip is getting the wheelbase the same as stock. after rolling it into the middle of the garage, I put my wheels on the front of the stock axle (was easy because it was already 5 lug). I nailed a set of 2x4's in front and back of the rear wheels so they couldn't move. Next, I slid a 6' piece of 2x2" square tubing against the front and back of the front tires. Taking a black marker I put lines on the concrete to give me a reference point of where my front wheels needed to be. After cutting off the spring perches, we slid the front sheetmetal back on (left the hood in place) and lowered the jack to see where I wanted it at ride height. After deciding that the bottom of the fender looked bitchin' at 4" from the ground (bottom of rim height) I climbed under and found a point on the frame to hold it up evenly on both sides (any spot will work as long as it's the same on both sides) so now the truck is at ride height! 2" square tubing tack welded to the frame and some 6"x.125" pieces I had laying around worked for my supports. After the truck is resting on the steel uprights on the front (firewall area) and back of the frame, I made a jig to make my front frame stubs. I took the pic after I cut it off but you get the idea. I bent some chunks of .125" over in a vise and tack welded them to a piece of metal I had laying around. I then took a black sharpie and traced the corners on the concrete so I could slide it back when the new clip is on, to see where my bumper stubs go! A rod builder by the name of Dave Gauss told me me these ideas of using your floor as a jig. Great idea! The subframe was cut right at the lower a-arm bracket, which was about 12" back from the wheel center. Now we cut the truck frame the same distance back (use your marks you made on the concrete with the 2" square tubing to set your wheelbase length) (note tubing still laying on floor and black marks on concrete for later wheelbase reference) Now I put the wheels on the clip and rolled it into tho hole. I layed my 2" tube behind the tires and put it on the back mark. I then rolled the clip up to where the tires hit (now it's the exact same as stock wheelbase!) and squared it up. Notice the blue circle around the bolt, that hole is the same on both sides and it was the same distance from the rear leaf spring (front hanger pivot) on both sides. I put a bolt in the hole (both sides) and used that for all my cross measuring. Chevy put a bunch of even holes all over that crossmember (motor mounts, etc), so I used a bunch of sets until I was sure it was even (don't use the shock holes!) Once I decided it was as even as I could get it, we welded a bunch of little pieces inside before we started fish plating it. We used cardboard to make our various templates and used 3/16" cold rolled for the plates. Did most of the cutting with an electric 4" angle grinder with cutoff wheels. (NO TORCHES!!!! YUCK) Here is finished welding on both sides. Now moving to the front of the truck, I cut off 8 1/2" of the front stub. Now I slid my front frame stub jig into place (slide back to marks made on concrete) to see where my frame/bumper brackets come out at. I made a crossmember out of 3/16" x 2" square tubing that I welded in place so that the bottom of the tube was the height the top of the stubs needed to be. (whew!) We made the bumper stubs out of some 2x3" 1/4" tubing had laying around (remember cheap!) After everything was welded into place, we welded flat plates (those actually held the truck up for layout and now have a new home!) on the front and tried to fill in everything nicely. It looks a little weird, but with the sheetmetal on you can only see the bumper stubs below the grille. So far so good and waaaaay low with all the suspension travel of a stock car (I love low, but don't like my kidneys bleeding from a crappy ride)!
Damn nice work .Truck has a great stance ,and will drive nice to.I had a 49 3 window with a 86 Cutless clip under it.It drove great and sat nice to ,but i think yours sets even lower than mine did .Looks like you did your home work ...
i love it. I have a camaro stubbed front end (done) and Its my project for the year for my spare 5 window I have. Ill keep up with this for some ?s I may inquire about
Great stuff. Nice to see somebody else doing low buck build. I'm just finishing my 50' M1 build. Same idea, GM clip and lots of scap steel. I'm into mine for around $2,500 but still need to get the glass but it's running driving. Keep the pictures and info coming!
Did I miss something on post 10? Go to EBAY motors, type in Halibrand and look for the cheap copies. A set of 4 is like 500 bucks!
On the Internet you can type in "A Gas Wheels" and buy direct. Or type "active power motorsports" and they will help with the wheels. I believe the name of the wheels is "Magestic" $259 a set plus $25.00 shipping. I bought a set of 15 x 5 and 15 x 8 and they balanced up good. Nice truck project....thanks for the post. P.S. 15 x 10 are $275 a set plus $25.00 shipping.
Here's how the stock motor mounts are located. They are too far forward in this spot for what I wanted. Thanks Chevrolet for making LOTS of other holes to move the mounts around! I took the 3 bolts out and slid them back to the next set, which is about an 1 1/4" from the front spot. Now I know stuff looks rough and messy, buts that's ok because I'm just building the truck roughly at this moment. When it's all built and all the fab work is done, it will come apart and get sandblasted, painted and put together with new fasteners, bushings, tie rods, etc. so I'm not worrying too much about perfection at this moment. The truck will be new and tight underneath, but like an old truck from the outside. Now that the mounts are slid back, the trans will hit the front of the firewall tunnel. I took a pair of channel locks and folded the lip back and under to get an extra 3/4" clearance for the trans ( a few smacks with a hammer to make it nice and even finishes it up) Next up.. Installing an engine and trans to put the exhaust together and installing the 69 Nova fuel tank (more cheap!!!)
I started on the exhaust with a pile of u-bends (3") that I'd bought on Ebay and a 10' tube of 3" muffler pipe I'd had laying around. Now being the cheap guy I am, I figured I'd rather make it than going to the muffler shop. I had a set of 1 5/8" med. tube Thorley headers and figured I'd start from there. I mocked up the left side and decided move the flange back. I cut off the original flange and after cutting up some bends moved it back another foot and a half. I went the high route because I didn't want the exhaust hanging too low and getting banged up. Next I did the pass. side. I hade to notch the frame a smidge (sorry, I like the word) so I had clearance for engine movement. Did the same with the flange on that side too. I'll wrap the part of the exhaust that's close to the transmission (I have about an 1" clearance on each side) I then ran some pipe to the back of the cab. Trying to keep it all up high I figured I'd mount the mufflers at an angle, plus it keeps them out of the way. I need to finish adding the bolt flanges to the mufflers (thought I had enough and was 1 set short) so I need to finish those. Notice the yellow 4x4 chunk of wood laying under the truck. I used "C" clamps to hold it to the frame and wood screws to hold the tubing evenly since I didn't have any fancy muffler jigs. Trying to use my head and still spend NO money! Ended up using Magnaflow mufflers after deciding I wanted to drive the crap out of this thing and not be deaf from using Flowmasters! Went against my plan, because I already had the Flowmasters. Oh well! I gas welded the tubes together and used a mig for all the brackets and heavier stuff. After I ran the tubes over the rearend, I decided to kick them out about 2" to the inside of the leafsprings. You could run them out farther if you wanted, but I hate seeing pipes sticking out of the sides of the truck. I need to finish welding the tubes up and then move to the fuel tank mounting! I'm having too much fun!!!
Hey... I need a drivers window for this truck if anybody has one they want to sell. Anybody have anything in not too bad of shape? Thanks, Brad
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