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#41 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chicago North Side
Posts: 4,201
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Great thread, thanks for sharing. Question for you, when you guys are redoing a body like that, is it worth dipping it or getting it beadblasted and then doing the bodywork? Would dipping it remove the lead?
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#42 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: West Allis, WI USA
Posts: 440
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Awesome job! Thanks for all the great pics and indepth detail. Great thread.
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#43 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 1,160
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Quote:
My approach has been to remove as much lead, paint, bondo, welds, etc before I get it media blasted. An experienced old timer recommended that I use the propane torch to remove as much lead as possible with a scraper. Then use a coarse wire brush to get the left over off. I then used the propane torach and a somwhat oily red shop rag to wipe the lead from the metal. It came out really clean, the final phase is to hit the metal with a 36 or 50 grit sander. That pretty much took it all off. Oh, and use a dust/ventalater mask with the sander/grinder because the lead will be airborn. There is a blast shop 6 blocks from my house that has years of experience, and I trust his judgment on what media to use. The media would not remove the lead in the quantities that were on the car (1" in some spots). Once everything is exposed as possible and the excess removed I'll get it blasted. Then I can bring it home and do the metal work. The cleaner the metal the easier to do the hammer the dents out and do any welding. I have decided that the top filler will need to be removed and redone, it is too rough to straighten in my opinion, or for my experience.
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#44 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 1,160
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Thanks Mark -
How is your coupe coming along?
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#45 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: dallas
Posts: 855
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hey mike, ive got 90% of the car in black oxide primer setten in my house, hah
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she don't love me - she loves my automobile |
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#46 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,259
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Wow nice work, good vision. How long did it take you to get that far? WoW lots of lead eh? Keep on keepin on, looking good!
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Sometimes you have to step up to the plate and answer the phone |
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#47 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Hypocrisy
Posts: 11,163
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Great job, thanks for the pics.
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Over enthusiasm and ownership of a MIG welder do not a fabricator make. |
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#48 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Browns, IL
Posts: 1,835
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Great thread on your build...I love 33's...
I just went back and clicked on the History thread...Makes the car even cooler. Great find. Last edited by glenn33; 01-10-2009 at 08:05 AM. |
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#49 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: texas
Posts: 2,906
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I'm amazed at the work and the speed inwhich you have gotten it done. I shall go outside and burn my project today........
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#50 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Upper Alabama
Posts: 922
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My brother, you are doing a Great Job ! ! ! I guess getting a divorce has made more time to work on the car
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My Dad always called me..Mr. Horsepower....I sure miss him..... |
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#51 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 1,160
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Eying the Rear End and the Stance
The body has been channeled 6" and moved back 2", I'm trying to figure out where to position the rear end in relation to the body. This is with the rear end in about the stock location. ![]() This is with the rear end in about the 2" back from stock location. ![]() This is with the rear end in about the 3.5" back from stock location. ![]() Here are a few more ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() There is about 3.5" of clearance between the frame and tubes. I may have to notch or adjust the frame t o allow more travel. ![]()
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#52 | ||
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 1,160
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Quote:
Most of the work has been done over the last 1.5 years. Quote:
Hope you can get some work done today!!!
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#53 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Abilene Kansas
Posts: 3,531
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Lookin good brotha. Def go with the second pic.
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^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Grandpa's Hotrod, a hotrod children's book for all ages.....Like on Facebook! |
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#54 |
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FNG
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 3
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What a beautiful day to be out in the garage. I love these photos and next time get yourself in the driver's seat. Rear end and stance look great -- how do you do it? Love, Mo
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#55 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 1,160
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Quote:
Love you!!
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#56 |
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FNG
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 40
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Hey Barn Find T - 33 is looken good - Like the shorter wheelbase look - Got any Henry J stuff - Ha - stnick
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1957 FE powered Custom 300 Build |
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#57 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: milE HIGH City
Posts: 3,229
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lookin good
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r.i.p. pops wanted- 671 blower |
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#58 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Taunton, MA
Posts: 5,443
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i like the 2" setback on the rearend.
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#59 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 6,106
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I agree -- lookin' good, Mike!
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www.instagram.com/hoesing |
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#60 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 97
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That is lookin awesome! That came from Yale? Last time I was over that direction I saw a really nice shoebox. Must somethin about that part of the state.
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I like kids. I don't think I could finish a whole one though. |
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