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Building a roadster from scratch.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by VonMoldy, Oct 8, 2008.

  1. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    I have been thinking about building a roadster from scratch but most likely steel.;) I haven't quite decided on a model A or T. I am a broke college student and I have been interested in metal working for a while and now that I am in a panel fab. class I have some knowledge and confidence to attempt something like this. Since I don't have tons of money to buy a cherry roadster to replicate what would you guys suggest? Should I buy some body I could afford which would most likely be a pile of rust and come in a convenient paper bag or should I buy one of those cheapo fiberglass bodies?
    [​IMG]
    $469!
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2008
  2. For a few hundred more, you can get a '26-'27 T shell. Better looking(my opinion), better proportions, and more room. Build the chassis, etc, and later you can either find a steel body, or learn to form one from scratch, with the shell as a pattern.
     
  3. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    true but I don't really know which direction I will take. Been thinking of doing a road racer early T.
    Basically I am looking for ways others have replicated a body. Could it be done just by accurate drawings?
     
  4. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    If you have the skill to make a car from scratch, then you also have the skill to save the worst original 32-34 ford body you ever saw. I think it would be much smarter use of your time & talent. Good luck
     

  5. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,175

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Buy a fiberglass roadster and do your best to replicate the Speed Sport Roadster. Ryan did an article on this thing once. You should see it in its original black guise... wow!!

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Unless you are 5'-0" you won't like the '23 T, with the steering wheel straight up between your bent knees. Of course, millions of T Bucket fans would disagree!
     
  7. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,273

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I guess it depends on one thing, do you want a car to drive now or a project to build for a couple of years?

    If you want a car now, build what you can afford. Even if it is a shitty glass body car.

    If you want a project fab it all yourself.

    Or better yet, build what you can now, and once driving start your steel project body, this way you get the best of both. A car to drive and the experience and satisfaction of doing all of your next car.
    Doc.
     
  8. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Ya that would suck. I always thought T-buckets looked lame and that is one reason. Definitley wont have a steering setup like that. Right now just getting ideas on building the body though.
    This car got around that problem with a belly pan. I think a 32 frame and a shallow pan might be enough to get rid of that.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. tjm73
    Joined: Feb 17, 2006
    Posts: 3,484

    tjm73
    Member

    Fiberglass T bodies vary from completely useless to very high quality. And the price is proportional to the quality.

    At this last Fall Carlisle I looked over a T body at the booth for Kenny's Street Rods (I think...it's Kenny's something or other). It was a well built, thick body with a molded in floor, channeled, trans tunneled, one piece body. One of the nicer units I've laid eyes on. It was also stretched some ammount. I'd guess around 6-8 inches. The price was VERY reasonable at a mere $750 ($700 show special). If I had an extra $700 to spend, I would have bought it.
     
  10. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
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    from UTARRGH!

    I want a steel body car I don't want to drive a fiberglass car I just want to know if anyone has used a fiberglass body to make a metal one? Or if it is even a good idea. I may be pretty naive but I don't think it will take years and years to build the body or the whole car for that matter. A 32 would be a lot more difficult that is one reason I am looking at a T or A. The other is I don't really want a 32.
     
  11. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
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    from UTARRGH!

    Did some searching and couldn't find anything on this? Perhaps if it isn't much trouble you could throw me a clue?
     
  12. chianutz
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 48

    chianutz
    Member
    from Florida

    find a cowl. you can usually find them pretty cheap. Then make the rest whatever dimensions suit you. It'll be half old, half new. Drive the shit out of it.
     
  13. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,175

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    I looked and couldn't find the Jalopy Journal blog I was looking for.

    I have the original Hot Rod Magazine article at my house, I'll scan it for you. One of the all-time best. Rear-engined and powered by an injected Buick.
     
  14. Kramer
    Joined: Mar 19, 2007
    Posts: 911

    Kramer
    Member

    So you are thinking of buying a glass body to use as a pattern?
     
  15. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    YES!
    I realize what I think and what I type and what people interpret from my chicken skratch typing is a bag of different stuff.
     
  16. Rootie Kazoootie
    Joined: Nov 27, 2006
    Posts: 8,134

    Rootie Kazoootie
    Member
    from Colorado

    Speed Sport and Giampetroni (?) roadsters.
     

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  17. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,273

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oh now I see, If you want to do that find a body you REALLY want to work from. Though a good set of plan drawings may be all you need. There was a guy on the net that built a Cobra Daytona Coupe from drawings, all hand formed aluminium. It was/is breathtaking.
    I have some ideas on doing it without buying a body but it will take a fair bit of drawing and access to a steel body that you wont damage by using a pine gage on. I did some large scale aircraft components this way.
    If your interested let me know.
    Doc.
     
  18. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,273

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  19. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

  20. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,882

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    I think these are two different cars.
     
  21. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,175

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Nope, same car.
     
  22. If you're gonna do a glass 26/27,try to find the most complete body you can...believe me, the difference between a $469 shell and a $750 better body is not that much..F/glass material,resin,adhesives,fillers,tools,supplies, etc.are EXPENSIVE!!!...plus you're gonna need a well ventilated space to work in....and ,glass dust created when grinding is a pain ,literally...it gets everywhere,itches like a MoFo...
    My advice to a "broke student" bent on building a T,would be to find someone selling a semi-finished Tbucket ...
     
  23. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,345

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Von, 184 has a dropped FRAME in the center, the belly pan is just to keep your feet from dragging. Gary
     
  24. I know what you mean about having real parts in-hand vs. having just good measurements on drawings.

    An Example...
    I once ran across a website that promoted their classes (was it Lazzen?) and one of the class assignments for half a dozen new guys in a 3 or 4 day class was to make an aluminum 427 Cobra or Willys gasser body using the fiberglass car as a pattern -- they did quite well in that short time.

    A Caveat...
    My only additional comment is to sit in something close to what you're thinking of before you put too much work into it. I once bought a '59 Willys truck ASS-U-ME-ing that I would fit fine. Big mistake. I sold the truck recently.

    For Inspiration and Ideas...
    In Ron Champion's book "How to Build a Sprots Car for under $500 -- and race it...," a locost car constructin manual, there is a picture of the sweetest looking "Austin Special" (on page 8 maybe?). The book for the most part does NOT have traditional hot rods, but, whoa(!) that "Special" is definitely a 50s traditional road racer. I wish there was a whole a book dedicated to that one. I'd scan that page for you, but I've misplaced the book. Anyway, I thought it was worth buying the book for the bird-cage tube frame concepts covered.

    Good luck and keep us posted on wht you decide to do.



     
  25. Rootie Kazoootie
    Joined: Nov 27, 2006
    Posts: 8,134

    Rootie Kazoootie
    Member
    from Colorado

    This one ?
     

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  26. 48reo
    Joined: Feb 21, 2008
    Posts: 305

    48reo
    Member

    Very good point, and you will bond with the vehicle in the process.
     
  27. 52pickup
    Joined: Aug 11, 2004
    Posts: 833

    52pickup
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

    I'm currently building the back half of a rpu type body. I am NOT doing the bend square tube and skin it crap. I'm trying to build it to look like it might be factory. Factory looking and functioning doors, nice factory looking compound curves, body lines and all that fun stuff. Just take it piece by piece. If you just focus on each individual part its really not too daunting.

    Oh and a word of advise. Hammer forms. Lots of them. Basically, as I design each piece that's symmetrical from side to side(supports, jambs, door structure pieces, etc) I make a hammer form and a cardboard template for cutting pieces out, that way I know everything is the same side to side, structurally at least.
     
  28. Wow, you're quick! Either that's it or its identical cousin. I seem to remember the one in the book being a bit greener, though.

    I know this is asking for a lot, but are there any details or build-up photos for that one?



     
  29. firingorder1
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,147

    firingorder1
    Member

    They were two different cars. Greth, Fisher and Maynard used a carburated hemi. Later blown. Giampetroni (sp?) used a Buick. It was sponsored by Gratiot Auto Supply.
     
  30. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    many times though parts can be so damaged that it is actually easier to just make it. With my budget this may be the whole car.
     

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