Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 47 'Binder Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hot Bob, Aug 28, 2008.

  1. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Welcome to the build thread for my ’47 International KB-1 short bed. I have no idea how long this is going to take or how much time I will be able to dedicate to it so things may move slowly from time to time.

    Here’s the deal. I pretty much told my story last week in the introductions but, being the owner of a new shop and having no name recognition starting out, I need something to use as a showpiece for my abilities. My wife, Karen and I set out to the swap meet in Ft. Worth this winter looking for a project that would be fitting. I wanted a “shop truck”. We decided it should be pre ’48 so there were no issues taking it to any of the shows (i.e NSRA). I did not want to build something that is in abundance at every show either. I was looking for a Studebaker or maybe a Dodge. I hadn’t even considered a International until I saw it.

    The lines were good…and that was about it. No drivetrain, plenty of rust, and lots of dents. Whoever had removed the engine and trans, did so with a torch. They had cut away the crossmember and a good portion of the firewall. Still, I could see potential in it. The guy was asking $650 for it. My wife offered $450 saying it was a wedding gift for me from her. (we just got married in May). I don’t know that it mattered what she said; I think he was ready to get rid of it. He agreed.

    So before a single tool moved into the new shop, even before the roof went on, the truck moved into it’s new home.

    [​IMG]

    Now that the shop is complete, it’s time to get to building. First thing I needed was a plan. Knowing that this was going to be my calling card for a while, I need it to pretty in-depth. It has to show off all aspects of my skills. I decided it will get extensive sheet metal massaging; sectioning, chopping, bobbing the bed and lots of repair. The truck will get slammed by way of airbags with a z’ed front rail and a c-notched rear. Rear suspension will probably be triangulated 4-link and front will be tubular Mustang II. The goal here is to build something that is radical with a traditional look and high quality craftsmanship. It will not be a specifically “period correct” build nor will it run dubs and air conditioning.

    First thing to do is map out the general plan. I’m not an artist but, I can work a computer ok. I laid out the truck with tape lines as reference points for cutting in photoshop. I did the lines as 3, 4, & 5” section and 2 & 3” chop. I took pictures of each of these and loaded them into the computer for manipulation.

    [​IMG]

    You can see in the above photo that I also thought about trimming the bottom edge of the fenders. Changed my mind on that. So, after an hour or so in photoshop this is what I ended up with.

    [​IMG]

    I’m really liking the way the 5” section puts the beltline on line with the top edge of the bed. That is one of the reasons the rear frame will be getting c-notches instead of z-ing. I also bobbed the 5” out of the bed in this pic, between the cab and rear fender. I think a little needs to come out of the back of the bed too, so I’m taking 3”. I also lowered the truck in this photochop but I didn’t have a frame of reference on that so I needed to figure it out.

    [​IMG]

    In this photo, I have removed the springs and adjusted the height by putting wood spacers in between the axles and the frame. This is where I want ride height to be. Rear edge of the front fender is 4” from the ground. I want it to put the running boards flat on the ground when dumped but be able to get a couple more inches of ride height for tough driveways and such. Should not be too much problem, 2500 bags for the front are 8” full and the 2600’s for the rear are 10”.

    Disassembly of a 60+ year old work truck sucks! I’m glad I have the right tools. I remember a time when this process would have taken me a couple weeks using all hand tools. Plasma cutters are our friends, that’s for sure. One thing that really amazed me was how many different size bolts were used to put this thing together. I was constantly changing the socket on my impact.

    Here’s a tip for removing stubborn carriage bolts. Tack weld the head to the base metal and run the nuts off with an impact. Most of the bolts 3/8” and under just broke.

    [​IMG]

    Here you can see how good the sheet metal looks. This is the passenger side rear fender.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Bed is finally off with the fenders removed from it. The beds on the Internationals do not come apart. Let me rephrase that, everything comes apart; they do not bolt together like other makes, they are welded. Floor, sides, and front are all welded together.

    [​IMG]

    Getting the front sheetmetal off is much easier. Three bolts at the running boards and one to the firewall…per side, of course.

    [​IMG]

    So, here's where I'm at. There’s a lot of clean up to do on the frame and I’m expecting lots of suspension parts to arrive in the next few days. I will probably send the cab out to Metal Rehab down in Arlington to get dipped. The rest of the sheetmetal will either get sand blasted or cleaned up by hand.
     
  2. breeder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2005
    Posts: 10,948

    breeder
    Member Emeritus

    looks like a kool build...im jealous of that shop to!!!!
     
  3. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Cornbinders-Binder for short
     
  4. Looking forward to watching this build...you have some great ideas and I love the non traditional stuff...I picked up a 37 international d2 pickup off of a buddy and am building it in my head right now and hope to start soon...good luck on yours and keep us posted
     

  5. Rowdy_one
    Joined: Jun 14, 2008
    Posts: 85

    Rowdy_one
    Member
    from Oh

    Way cool, My dad had a 47 long bed. Was our hunting/fishing/firewood getting/go to the dumps ride. Rode a lot of miles in it. Be looking forward to seeing your progress.
     
  6. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    cool truck for a shop truck , will be following this build as it looks real interesting
     
  7. brewsir
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,278

    brewsir
    Member

    I'm thinking a little off the crown would really help keep it from becoming topheavy with the chop and section.....definately keep a book because if you can make that truck nice you have skills!!!!
     
  8. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Thanks for the encouragement! I'm pretty stoked about this build. I can totally picture this truck in my head and it will be bitchin.

    I did give some thought to the crown of the roof but I don't think I will actually change it. It will get lengthened some in the chop so that will help. It will also be getting a visor (I think), and that will downplay some of the roundness. The problem with flattening the roof is that it's curve matches ALL the windows. I also have one more trick that I think will help to down play the bubble, but it will have to wait.

    Didn't get a lot of time to work on the truck yesterday but spent a couple hours working on the frame notches for the rearend. First thing I had to do was get the frame cleaned up in the area.

    [​IMG]

    The top edge of the frame is wider at the kickup than the rest of the rails so I needed to shave it down to keep everything straight. A little dyechem and a scribe gave me a nice accurate line to grind to.

    [​IMG]

    Drew out a pattern in cardboard and cut it out. This is the pattern for the inside arch; the outside will be shorter and extend up from the top of the frame. That way I can keep everything flush and smooth. The frame will get boxed so the boxing plates will butt up to the inside arch.

    [​IMG]

    I only had 6" wide material in stock so I cut the inside arches down the center and layed them out for cutting. Here you can see everything ready to cut. The 1's and 2's on the plates represent whether it is a front or rear half as they are slightly different. I like to lay out my plasma cutting projects with a silver sharpie. Shows up real well and doesn't burn off.

    [​IMG]

    Cutting.

    [​IMG]

    Once cut, everything had to be cleaned up. On multiples, I like to stack them and grind them together so they match.

    [​IMG]

    Here's where I left off last night. The inside arches will get welded up next so they are one piece.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. 64LeSabre455
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 779

    64LeSabre455
    Member
    from Adkins, Tx

    Cool build, I like the direction you are taking this truck. Wish I had the space and equipment to get into a build like this. I subscribed to this thread so post lots and post often.
     
  10. stude_trucks
    Joined: Sep 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,755

    stude_trucks
    Member

    Looks cool. I like the photochop.
     
  11. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    A little more progress on the truck. Inside notch halves welded together

    [​IMG]

    Here's how the notches are going in. This will allow me to install them in stages without cutting the frame completely apart an having to re-align it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Frame notches are pretty much finished. The underside of the notches still need to be ground smooth but that will wait until I pull the cab off and send the frame to the sandblasters next week. I set the notches up so everything was a fillet weld. This allows me to grind the welds down smooth without taking away much material. These pics are before final welding.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Started laying out for the bobbing of the frame. This will be a 5" cut. I will just cut it straight and then reinforce with fish plates inside.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    That's it for now. I need to get ready to head down to Dallas for the Invasion. Should be most excellent.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2008
  13. Very nice execution so far!

    I have done a few of those. Here is some inspiration for you.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. RugBlaster
    Joined: Nov 12, 2006
    Posts: 563

    RugBlaster
    Member

    I've got a feeling this is going to be great.
     
  15. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Very nice El P! I have your Mustang II thread saved as a subscription for reference. I think you've got one of the best thought out setups. I've done a lot of off-road stuff and one thing I always adhere to is hanging all suspension components in double shear.

    I like the tube work on your chassis. Here's a little of the stuff I've done in the past. Not HAMB material, but still fun.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  16. jrod60
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 91

    jrod60
    Member
    from Katy, TX

    DRuss32: So is a cornbinder a type of farm equipment that's used for harvesting corn? Is anything and everything made by IH referred to as a "binder". I'm just trying to understand how the term is used because I'm looking for a specific IH truck part and "binder" might be a good search word. Thanks


    All things IH: http://www.binderbulletin.org/ Lived there for a while when my Scout was a runner...ah, the good ol days.
     
  17. ...nice job on your Binder, I like the way it looks in picture no. 4 myself. If you build it as low as you plan, will you be able to steer it without tire scrub?
     
  18. Sweeeeeeeeeeet. I can't wait till I start on my 47 longbed
     
  19. Wicked50
    Joined: Apr 14, 2008
    Posts: 883

    Wicked50
    Member

    You working on your truck makes me want to get mine back from the body shop so i can start working on it
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2008
  20. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Got some more done yesterday. Used the plasma cutter to cut the frame apart. I cut about 1/8" from the scribed line. I cut the back lines first then the cab side.

    [​IMG]

    Trimmed down to the scribed line with an angle grinder and a 36 grit disc then beveled all edges. I've found that I have a hard time taking pics once I get going. Everything was positioned back in place using clamps and screw jacks. I measured diagonally and height at several points. Once I felt alignment was on, I tacked it together and remeasured everything. Everything was straight so I just welded it up. I don't weld all of one side then move to the other. Too much chance of something moving. I do a section on one side then move to the other while measuring in between. If something moves, I can then choose to weld a section that will pull things back into alignment. It's a lot about knowing what effect each weld will have on the metal. I ran a nice hot weld that gave full penetration and layed pretty flat.

    [​IMG]

    On the inside of the frame I installed the fish plate. I made it a little too tall and so the welds at the top and bottom are a bit undercut because I couldn't manuver the torch. Regardless of the undercut, they're still plenty strong and the frame will get boxed so they won't show.

    [​IMG]

    And here's the shortened frame. The frame goes to the sand blasters as soon as it stops raining. They won't blast in the rain. When it comes back I'll start boxing it.

    [​IMG]
     
  21. RugBlaster
    Joined: Nov 12, 2006
    Posts: 563

    RugBlaster
    Member

    start on the cab next
     
  22. JagerFabrik
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 20

    JagerFabrik
    Member

    Looking good. Nice clean work.
     
  23. The Lone Wolf
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 145

    The Lone Wolf
    Member
    from Malta

    Looks great.
    Very nice clean work
    Awesome welding job
    Those welds on the frame.Are they overlapping spot welds or a single straight run from top to bottom? And,if ya don't mind me asking,what power welder do you have and what settings did you use for the frame?

    Cheer and again great job
     
  24. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Although I do adjust my welding technique based on the situation, I try to never do the overlapping spot welds. That makes for a colder weld and there's just no telling how strong it will be. I've seen guys do that and their welds can look just like TIG. They are pretty but I don't trust them. Maybe they are similar to pulsed TIG, I don't know.

    The welds on the frame are all a straight run with a zig-zag pattern. If I'm having problems with burn-through, I will usually switch to a faster circular pattern. I always try to keep as much heat as possible in the weld. The welder I'm using for this stuff is a Lincoln SP-175C. Couldn't really tell you exact settings as I'm always adjusting however, it is probably at 75% or so.

    I will be starting on the cab soon. I just picked up the bracing material this morning. Sectioning will be first.
     
  25. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Just a quick post about yesterday. I got a call from the sandblaster at about 11:00am. He says it's not raining so if I want to bring the frame out he'll blast it. Says bring anything else I want done too. I've never dealt with ths guy before but I thought it was cool that he called so I say I'll be there in two hours. I get the frame loaded up and throw the back fenders in the truck too. When I get to this guys place we unload the stuff and he says move your truck over there and we'll be done in no time. He powers up a 1050CFM compressor and helps his son put on his hood and fresh air supply. Owner is 70 years old so he just runs the equipment and lets his son do the actual blasting. 45 minutes later, they're done. Frame and both fenders...$162 (one hour and nine bage of sand). To top it all off, they made me walk around the frame and nit-pick the work. I will be using these guys all the time. His name is Glen Goode, aka "The Fiberglass Man" out in Gainsville. He has these giant fiberglass cowboy statues out in front of his place. I highly recommend him.

    [​IMG]
     
  26. glenn33
    Joined: Sep 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,838

    glenn33
    Member
    from Browns, IL

    Great build...I've owned two 49's, wish I had one of them back.
     
  27. Wicked50
    Joined: Apr 14, 2008
    Posts: 883

    Wicked50
    Member

    Update us on your progress
     
  28. woodscavenger
    Joined: Aug 12, 2008
    Posts: 56

    woodscavenger
    Member
    from idaho

    Where did you go? Any new updates?
     
  29. Hot Bob
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Hot Bob
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Customers projects keep interupting me on this thing. I just started back on it the other day with the chopping and sectioning of the cab. Will try to get something posted soon.
     
  30. pugs
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 498

    pugs
    Member
    from Hamburg Pa

    this makes me miss my 47 i had a couple of yrs ago

    47 pics 006.jpg

    IM000770.jpg

    IM000776.jpg
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.