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(How-to) - Yet Another s10 Swap

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Abomination, Aug 1, 2008.

  1. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    Last edited: Aug 1, 2008
  2. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    Yet Another s10 swap

    jeffs51chevy: I've been lurking for a long time, reading all the great stuff you guys are doing. I've posted in the welcome section awhile back. Thank you to all who took the time to say hello. I was just wondering if there was any interest in a "how to" or better yet a, "how I did it" on the subject of fixed cab mounts for the s10 frame swap. I know there is a lot of info out on the web, and nothing I have done is ground breaking. The only thing that might be different is that I only have about $120 into the cab mounts and front core support. Let me know, and thanks again. You guys are true craftsman.

    GRIMMS: Go ahead and share. There's always someone looking for alternative ideas on how to do stuff.

    Make sure and post lots of pics.
     
  3. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I'm going to try and post a few pics of the progress. Everything is all dirty, rusty, and rough. I will fix that later. I'm just trying to get everything mocked up. I know, I know, the 14 inch tires look very goofy.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    54jimmy: looks good how did you relocate the motor so it wasn't in the rad?

    jeffs51chevy: First, I mounted the cab for clearance. Then welded motor mounts to 3/8 steel plates. Next, I bolted the mounts to the engine. Then, I set the engine in place, leveling front to back and side to side. I tacked the steel plates to the cross member, pulled the engine and finished the welds. I currently have about a one to two inch gap between the firewall and the distributor. There is probably a better way, but this was my solution.
     

  5. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    Ok, so this is the process I used to build fixed cab mounts for the s10 frame swap. I got back to my kindergarten roots and made some very crude patterns out of old folders in my office.

    [​IMG]

    I took these down to the local Agricultural Equipment machine shop and had the pieces sheared and bent. After drilling a few holes (that I ended up not using) and a little welding, I had finished mounts. Here are the results:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for looking.
     
  6. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    the cab mounts are 5 inches from the top of the s10 frame rail, both front and back. (If I had it to do over again, I would make the FRONT mount 3/4 of an inch taller.) Then the stock s10 bushing. I shimmed it some after that to level everything.

    [​IMG]

    As for the bed, I'm only in the "mock up" stage, but I don't think I will have to raise it at all. I should have more work done this weekend.
    Thanks,
     
  7. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I'll try to get better pics tomorrow, but here is a couple pics of the running boards. I like the way everything is fitting - gaps look good. Can anyone get me a close up picture of the running board - looking down from the cab. My truck was in a million pieces when I got it, so I don't have a reference to go from.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I’ve had a few requests for measurements and a more detailed account of what I’ve done thus far. I’ve even been approached with monetary incentives to explain the process. I am not here to make a buck. I believe this forum to be a place for exchanging ideas and helping each other. My project was born out of the generosity of others who shared their knowledge and expertise. In fact, my original plans were scraped after I found work done by guys on this very board. Having said that, I would like to give a better explanation of the process. The front mounts are 9 ¼ tall and the sides are 3 ¼ - 4 - 3 ¼ respectively. The rear mounts are 10 ¼ inches tall and 4 - 4 - 4. The side edges that drop from the top down and then diagonals back to the bottom of the mount is 3 ½. The top plate for the mounts are 3 ¼ x 4 for the fronts and 5 x 4 for the rear. I hope this is making sense. You need to just tack weld the top plates flush, so that you can get an accurate measurement of 5 inches down from the top of the mount. It is here that you will weld the “foot”. The “foot’s” dimensions are 3 x 4 x 3. You pretty much have completed mounts at this point, so let’s get to mounting them on the s10 frame. I transferred the existing bolt holes from my cab to strips of plywood so that I would not have to use the actual cab. Here is a pic:

    [​IMG]

    I clamped the mounts to the frame starting with the front mounts 2 inches forward the long oblong frame hole. On my truck there is 32 1/8 between the front mounts and the rear mounts. I then placed the plywood strips across the front and rear mounts and centered them. From here it was a lot of measuring - forward, aft, and diagonally. I used the holes in the strips to mark the top plates. I then broke the tack welds on the top plates and used a 2” hole saw to cut the bushing seats. Make sure you measure and center everything. I re-used the stock s10 cab bushings. The cab was finally set and bolted to the mounts. I measured and re-measured differing points until I was happy with how it sat on the frame. I bolted on a front fender to make sure I had the front wheel centered. After a little welding, I had the cab mounted. I hope this makes someone’s build a little easier. I’ve had a blast playing MacGyver in my garage
     
  9. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    GRIMSS: Here's jeffs51chevy's bracket design. Hope this helps some people out on their projects.

    [​IMG]

    **note to design**

    This drawing is the improved version from the ones he made. We moved the foot 3/4" to raise the mount some more. Kind of a "if I was to do again thing".
     
  10. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    Well not much progress lately, but I did get a chance to track down a 4x4 rear end. It's not that photo worthy, but it does show the rear track width. I wanted the rear disk set up, but $75 for the whole assembly, ebrake, and sway bar I'll drive it and save for the next one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have to still trim the rear frame rails, and set the bed, but it's what I could get done today. One man show you now. Thanks for looking.
     
  11. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I will try to post when I have some progress to show. On a differnt note, can anyone tell me if the bed is mounted exactly level on the frame, or if it slopes forward. I'm working out the bed mounts and need someone to put a level to their bed. If someone will go to the trouble, would you please check at the top of the bed rail and on the wood bottom.

    Thanks in advance,
     
  12. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I will tell you this, the swap is no small undertaking. It has been a ton of fun for me and my four year old, but everyone on the web makes it sound like a peice of cake. Swap the sheet metal and you'll be on the road. It's much more involved. Do not let me detour you. I am just saying it is not as easy as everyone makes it out to be.
     
  13. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
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    Of this whole project, the front radiator support was what dictated the height of the cab. Next time I would like to be more daring and fab the front end differently, but I used conventional wisdom this time. I cut the bottom of the rad support off right below the two welded nuts that hold the grill, and then welded a peice of 3/4 angle iron to hold things together.

    [​IMG]

    I then used some 1/4 steel plate, bent in a 45 degree, to hold the rad support to the frame.
    The plan is to weld them to the frame when I get everything else set in a final position. I want good gaps everywhere before I weld for the last time.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The passenger side frame slopes, so a peice of angle iron will be used. As you can see from the pics, the inner fender skirts are trimed to miss the upper A arms. The photos were from a month ago, and were only a trial run. I will get new shots as they come available.

    Thanks,
    Sorry for the photo sizes. My computer skills suck.
     
  14. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I got a little more done on the runningboard mounts today. They are 1 x 2 channel. The bed mounts are 3" tubing cut on a bias.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for looking
     
  15. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    Thanks guys for all the kind words. It does mean a lot to me that you like what you see. This is my first really envolved project like this, and I can see the light at the end, atleast for the mock up stage. This project made a lot of sense for me due to the availiblity of the donor s10. My father and I had completed the v8 swap over ten years ago, so it was free. As for all the mounts and bracket pieces, I believe there is not more than $235 in it all. Obviously, you must know how to weld and have a machine shop handy, but it is fairly easy. I started this thread to show off the progress, but I truly hope that it will make someone else's built a little easier. Believe me, there has been a lot of head scratching. The funny thing is, I have no idea how this beast will drive. Thanks again
     
  16. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    There you go - enjoy it, folks! I told jeffs51chevy to check out this post later in case anybody has any questions for him!

    ~Jason
     
  17. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    thanx for all the info... but is it posibole to get the 3100 cab without al these brackets.??? and how far do you place the cab from the front of the chassis..?
     
  18. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    That would be a question for jeffs51chevy himself!

    Click on his name to go to his profile. :)

    ~Jason

     
  19. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    nice drawing thanx for that but can you maybe update the drawing with the holes :D
     
  20. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    I think they're not there because he said this earlier in this post:

    "I took these down to the local Agricultural Equipment machine shop and had the pieces sheared and bent. After drilling a few holes (that I ended up not using) and a little welding, I had finished mounts. Here are the results:"

    ~Jason

     
  21. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
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    Bump for the weekenders!

    ~Jason
     
  22. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    on top of the bracket you see the big hole what will be use to mount the cab on this hole i want to know what size it is...

    Greetings Bigtumtum
     
  23. jeffs51chevy
    Joined: Dec 4, 2007
    Posts: 10

    jeffs51chevy
    Member
    from Idaho

    I will try to answer your questions. If you are welding the cab brackets on, you do not need the holes. I was unsure at first how I was going to mount them, so I drilled a few holes. Spacing is really up to you. As for mounting the cab without the brackets, you can't. The s10 frame is too narrow. You can set the cab lower, but it will require much more fabrication to the interior (i.e. a trany hump), and the sterring box will mess with your radiator. The top hole in the cab brackets are from a 2" hole saw. They recieve the stock s10 cab bushing. I hope this helps.
     
  24. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    Thanx for the great respons it realy helps... tell me how far from the front of the rails did you place the first bracket?
     
  25. jeffs51chevy
    Joined: Dec 4, 2007
    Posts: 10

    jeffs51chevy
    Member
    from Idaho

    On the side of the s10 frame, just south of the front stock cab bracket (that needs to be removed), you will see an oblong hole. I set my front mounts 2 inches forward that oblong frame hole. Then it's just a lot of measuring. Follow the previous stated steps. It's pretty straight forward.
     
  26. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    BTTT for Monday!

    ~Jason
     
  27. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    any more drawings or pics of the brackets also from the runningborad wouldt be welcome...
     
  28. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    Any change that some one can make a drawing for the running board brackets..??
     
  29. bigtumtum
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 654

    bigtumtum
    Member

    ow Jason and jeff thanks for the brackets drawing...

    a buddy is going to redraw it in mm with CAD en then hey wil make the bracet for me... :D

    only he wants to know is the size of the big cab mounting hole on top of the bracket... so if you can help me with that would be great..
     
  30. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,719

    Abomination
    Member

    Hey, post 'em in the S-10 thread, man... may as well share! :D

    ~Jason

     

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