How to shorten an "A" driveshaft, or other options?

Hi all, Anybody else had to shorten a Model A drive shaft? Searching around the closest thing I found was about using a '32 4banger drive shaft and shortnening it. I assume it is a tubular type. True?
I have a good (I think) rearend that I would like to use.
thanks in advance, Gary

 

I'm assuming that you are triing to shorten a closed drive line.
If so, It can be done. I've done it to a V-8 drive line and when all was done, I found out that the drive shaft shop down the street could have done it cheaper and better then I did. Look for a drive shaft shop that does axel work too. take your drive shaft and torque tube to them and tell them the new length they will cut ,weld and balance everything. The solid shaft will be cut and they will make a sleve to join the two halves back together. Find a shop that does work on off road trucks and cars. they tend to have more exsperience whith this sort of work.

 

Yeah I cut my torque tube myself than sending the driveshaft in seperate, but subtracting the amount cut from torque tube. Some shops can cut and respline which is alittle better.

 

ive had solid v8 shafts done but prefer to turn a pilot on 1 and a socket on the other to keep it true and then weld em up

 

Thanks for the input!!
I like the pilot socket idea. Do it with a sleeve.
Now I remember seeing a sleeved job where the sleeve was machined to an interference fit and heated up so it would slide over the shaft. Let it cool and blammo!! Don't think it was welded or anything. I'll probably weld and pin it.
thanks again fellas,

 

I've drilled holes in the sleve on either end and "Rosette welded" them together. The weld joint is stronger that way. The sleve acts like a "Pin Socket" type joint for alignment but is easier to make. MHO

 

I think speedway makes a shaft you can cut to size and sleeve together yourself if you are capable of welding.

 

Cornboy, you want a good answer you have to be a little more specific of what your intentions are. Are you shortening a model A drive shaft for a Model A taper pinion rear or are you shortening a Model A drive shaft to use on a V8 spline pinion rear or what? List the parts that you have and what you want to do and you will get a lot better response to your question and not a bunch of speculative guesses.

 

I'm bringing this one back up. Taking Dick's advice, here's my laundry list.
It's a stock A rearend being mated to a '39 closed driveshaft tranny in a modified Model T frame. It's going behind a Model A motor for power.
I have all the parts now. I was wondering about shortening it ,using the sleeving method and not pulling the rearend apart to do it. My idea was:
.cut shaft in half
.shorten the loose end on a lathe
.complete rearend on the workbench w/ section of shaft squared with bench surrface
.both sections of driveshaft supported in V blocks
.make an interference fit sleeve with holes for rosebud welds
. heat up sleeve slide on first half
.slide in loose half
. check true, let cool, recheck true
. weld holes in sleeve, re-recheck true

What do you guys think?

 

Ford driveshafts were solid steel from 1909-1948 EXCEPT the tubular style used in some 36-38 applications. The tubular style shafts were coveted by early racecar builders for use as exhaust pipes as they are large in diameter and very stylish with pleasing lines and tapers. If you have never seen a tubular shaft imagine a hollow tube with solid stubs welded to each end following the taper of the torque tube interior but just about 1/2" or less clearance. Can you say GOODIE?

YOU need one for your car!

 

sounds like you got it
i like to fishmouth the sleeve so the weld around the end isnt round, this way even if it cracks and the welds through the holes dont hold...you'll still not have a problem of it spinning due to the weld in the way

if you get the sleeve hot all over, put a stop on the "rear" half...slip it on, slip the front shaft in...then let it cool...it should be nice and straight and not have a "loose half"

do your sleeving near an end to keep the flop out of the middle if you have it slightly off balance

good luck
Zach

 

I have a 32 and a 34 shaft which are both tubular. I think an A shaft is tubular as well?? I would take it to a driveshaft shop and have them cut an end off on their lathe and weld it back. Be sure you cut the torque tube the same amout as the driveshaft!!. The stuff at the trans end needs to be in the right place.

 

A shaft is solid; pinion is hollow, mounts on tapered end. Taper there is exact same setup as an axle end.

 

Correct Bruce, it's a solid driveshaft. I neglected to mention that. Nice to know that the tapers are the same on the axles and driveshaft.

Zach, I like the stop for the sleeve, and the 'fish mouth' idea for finishing and welding the ends.

thanks again, Gary

 

I just caught this so how about this idea to eliminate any balance problems associated with spliced drive shafts.

A Model B drive shaft is a tubular driveshaft that has the same pinion tapered input end as a Model A so it will interchange. If you can score one of these it should fit in the Model A torque tube. Now take Andys advice and take this to the drive shaft shop , have them cut the weld on the input shaft 6 spline snout of the B driveshaft. This will separate the input snout from the driveshaft and leave an index lip on the snout for reassembly. Determine the length of the driveshaft tube that you need, cut off the excess tube and face square and re weld in the 6 spline front snout of the driveshaft .