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fuel tank sealer?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JOECOOL, May 15, 2008.

  1. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,771

    JOECOOL
    Member

    Does the stuff you slosh around in a fuel tank work OK ? Will it work on Aluminum? Are there any homegrown recipes for it ? thanks joe
     
  2. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    Joe, I have personally used a product that is mostly sold to motorcycle guys. It is called Kreem. Parts Unlimited is a motorcycle parts supplier that I got it from. I will say that I worked for a dealership when I got it, so I am not sure if you can order it directly. I have not heard of any homespun recipes for it. I have also seen my local radiator shop use some stuff that looks like candy apple coating, might have better luck getting it locally. I am not sure what it is called. the Kreem is white and is a 3 part system, never used it in aluminum. Both products are for rust prevention and leak sealer, so I would assume they would work, may just need to buy the liner portion with out the treatments and use a treatment suitable for etching aluminum. Just my 2 cents. Bill
     
  3. gahi
    Joined: Jun 29, 2005
    Posts: 731

    gahi
    Member
    from Moab, UT

    Caswell Plating makes a nice sealer. I've used it on two tanks.
     
  4. JDHolmes
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 918

    JDHolmes
    Member
    from Spring TX

    It works on aluminum. It works well if you follow the "program". I stock two varieties. PM me for some info.
     

  5. GassersGarage
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 4,726

    GassersGarage
    Member

    Buddy of mine used a sealer in his tank. Within a year, he had problems. The sealer was coming off and plug the fuel pickup. He had to remove the tank and get all the sealer out. Now he runs with a bare tank, just added an extra filter.
     
  6. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    I personally don't care for gas tank sealers and don't believe they're necessary if the tank is properly welded.

    I acid wash my tank first to clean & etch - usually with muriatic acid. I then neutralize & rinse with water & baking soda. Followed by a rinse with denatured alcohol and a warm-air dry (heat gun, or even hair dryer).

    Then I do a phosphoric acid wash to protect the bare metal. Again, a good rinse and a final denatured alcohol rinse. Done.

    If you're starting with a brand new tank, skip the muriatic acid & just do the phosphoric acid.

    I've never seen a brand of sealer that didn't flake or crack or peel at some point. Some of them last for several years, some of them are completely worhtless. I think a lot of it has to do with all the different things they put in gasoline these days.

    But if you need to "seal" your gastank - you've got a leak that needs to be fixed.
     
  7. If you can find a Sherwin Williams industrial paint supplier in your area check out their tank sealer. developed for the USNavy. Great stuff and lasts forever.
     
  8. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,771

    JOECOOL
    Member

    thanks all ,I was given an older 22 gallon aluminum tank that I thought of using for a larger fuel tank. ( mine is only 7 gallons). I need to weld some brackets on it and was worried I couldn't get it sealed if I screwed up. .It is pretty scroungy inside and It may be more trouble than its worth . Thanks Again.
     
  9. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Ohh...none of my info applies to aluminum - the muriatic acid will turn it to mush!
     
  10. FlatErnie...What strength solution on the Phosphoric acid wash?? I have a new "Tanks" F/tank thats been on the shelf 3 years (never had any fuel in it,tho..) and I want to rinse/clean before I use it.
    I'm also not sure about any kind of sealer/coating...rather not use any ,if I don't have to..

    Thanks , Stan
     
  11. I've used tank sealer made by Bill Hirsch twice with good results. No problems with flaking or anything like that. It looks like white housepaint. You pour out the excess and get most of it back again, so one quart can will do several tanks.

    The stuff they sell in motorcycle shops works good too. Can't remember the brand, but it worked fine. It comes in a smaller can, maybe 1 pint.

    Make sure whatever sealer you get says that it's okay to use with alcohol, since they put alcohol in the fuel now.
     
  12. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Stan,

    Most hardware stores carry a product called "Ospho" or something similar. It's typically in the chemical aisle. When I can't find that, I go to the big box stores like Home Depot & look for specific concrete etching chemicals - read the labels as not all of them contain phosphoric acid.

    I use it full strength.

    It will leave a dull grey to black-ish finish that can be powdery and is why I rinse with denatured alcohol.
     
  13. 23Tzer
    Joined: Aug 25, 2008
    Posts: 6

    23Tzer
    Member

    I've used the red sticky stuff you're talking about. It's called Red Coat and I bought it at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. It worked on an old Gremlin I had and hadn't given a problem when I sold the car. I used Muratic acid to clean the tank.
     
  14. Ole Pork
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 581

    Ole Pork
    Member

    I had a motorcycle repair shop years ago, and used Kreem many times. It worked well, IF you got the tank VERY clean, otherwise it tended to peel. Never used the rest of the sealers available, so I can't comment on them.....
     
  15. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    Ernie, there comes a time when a tank gets corrosion built up inside and some guys actually clean and seal the tank to prevent further corrosion and sometimes that corrosion creates a "Field" of pin holes, hard to chase them all down. So there should be room in anyones arsenal of tricks for tank sealer. I agree it is not a fix all, and poor prep will almost certainly lead to a bad repair.
     
  16. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    One word - LEAD
     
  17. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member

    Another vote for the Red Coat sealer.
     
  18. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    unfortunately not everyone in this hobby is good at lead, and even after extensive cleaning, a gas tank can hold explosive fumes. Lead is great for the seasoned pro, but some of these guys starting out have never even seen leading happen. With that in mind, I just started looking into lead so I can learn it. I am really not trying to argue with you Ernie, cause you make some good points. As a paramedic, I like to have several tricks handy in case one don't work, I have some to fall back on.
     
  19. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    As a paramedic, I WANT you to have several tricks up your sleeve - hopefully, you'll use the best one for me! :D

    Just because you CAN do a tracheotomy with a pocket knife and a ball point pen (saw it on Baywatch! :rolleyes:) doesn't mean you should if there's another paramedic standing by with the appropriate gear. ;)

    No argument, really, it's just that I don't always see "technology" as helping...I see "easy way out" used more often than "correct way" - and I'm every bit as guilty as the next guy! :eek:
     
  20. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    Well Ernie, your alright in my book. We usually all have the right gear eventually...that is why they let us drive a cool truck with alot of lights. I saw the ballpoint pen and pocket knife on Mash too, so it must be something new I haven't learned yet;). Take care, and if I am ever in your area I will stop for a lead lesson:D
     

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