Wiring. Chevy starter solenoid issue

[tfeverfred]

I'm planning to try and wire my T on my lonesome. With the help of some very good schematics from a member of the NTBA, KoalaT. In his drawing, the starter solenoid has 3 connections on it, "BATT", "R" and "S". However, my starter solenoid only has "BATT" and "S". Why is that and how will I hook it up to the switch?

My engine is a 1984 305 SBC and the starter is for that engine. Anyone have any ideas?

[36-3window]

"S" is for start....."R" is for a bypass wire to go around the ignition ballast resister so the coil gets full 12 volt power will cranking

if you engine has an HEI distributor, forget about it.

[tfeverfred]

Originally Posted by 36-3window

"S" is for start....."R" is for a bypass wire to go around the ignition ballast resister so the coil gets full 12 volt power will cranking

if you engine has an HEI distributor, forget about it.

Yes, I am running a HEI. In his drawing he has a wire coming from "R" to "IGN" on the ignition switch. So, nothing goes between the two?

[tfeverfred]

Here is the drawing I am working from:



P.S. the voltmeter is actually a one wire alternator. He made a mistake.

[36-3window]

in your case , the only wire going your the starter is from the "start" position on the ignition switch..goes to the "S"

run a 14 gauge wire from the " ignition" position on the ignition switch to the "battery" terminal on the HEI...make sure that there is 12 volts there while the ignition switch is in the start position (while cranking) . i've always thought that was dumb by GM to mark it "battery" when it needs 12 volt switched power

you can also take your system power from the big battery lug on the starter...use a fusible link there..use 10 gauge or 8 if you have a very high output alternator

[Mr48chev]

36-3window nailed it. With the hei you don't need or want the resistor and don't need the bypass wire.

That drawing is great for any GM engine with 12 voolts and a point type distributor though.

[36-3window]

looking at the wiring diagram , that wire from R should not be going to the ignition switch...it should be connected to the ignition ballast resistor on the coil side. that's only needed for points ignition

your buddy just made a mistake

here is how it should be:




as your buddy wrote on the diagram , you don't need that wire or the coil or the ballast resister with HEI....just go from ignition switch to the distributor

[tfeverfred]

Thanks, guys! I really appreciate it. I'm trying to save some money and wire my T without a kit. this info helped a lot.

[36-3window]

looking at the diagram again , i see a couple things i would do different

the headlight power is hooked to the accessory side of the ignition switch..i would hook it up to full time power do you can turn your headlights on while the ignition is off...like normal cars

also, the volts gauge is hooked to the battery lug on the starter..that will power up the gauge even with the ignition switch off. the volt , and all electrical gauges should be hooked to switched power/accessory side of the ignition switch

don't forget the fuses and the neutral safety switch

[Retrorod]

You are da man 36-3w.

[dbradley]

Don't know if you're going to use turn signals, but be aware that they can be tricky to wire. If you buy a kit with an external signal switch, the directions will come with it. If you use a column with internal signal switch, you'll need a diagram for what ever car the column came from............. I'd also recommend a "mechanical" brake light switch instead of the "pressure" type. They carry a heavier load, and don't require bleeding the brakes if it fails and needs replacing.

[tfeverfred]

Originally Posted by dbradley

Don't know if you're going to use turn signals, but be aware that they can be tricky to wire. If you buy a kit with an external signal switch, the directions will come with it. If you use a column with internal signal switch, you'll need a diagram for what ever car the column came from............. I'd also recommend a "mechanical" brake light switch instead of the "pressure" type. They carry a heavier load, and don't require bleeding the brakes if it fails and needs replacing.

Thanks for the advice. I had planned on using a bolton signal unit from Speedway and I had decided to use a mechanical brake light switch a while ago.

[tfeverfred]

Thanks for helping me see what my friend was trying to show me, 36-3window. I'm collecting the things I need to tackle this in a couple weeks.

[AutoReWire]

Might I suggest some very cheap fire insurance....

Splice a 4 to 6 inch length of 16 gauge Fusible Link wire between the starter solenoid Bat connection and the 10 gauge wire feeding the Ignition switch.... It's dirt cheap fire insurance.

If you can't find it locally let me know.

Al

[tfeverfred]

Originally Posted by AutoReWire

Might I suggest some very cheap fire insurance....

Splice a 4 to 6 inch length of 16 gauge Fusible Link wire between the starter solenoid Bat connection and the 10 gauge wire feeding the Ignition switch.... It's dirt cheap fire insurance.

If you can't find it locally let me know.

Al

I got her done yesturday. If I can't find the fuseible link local, I'll give you a PM. Thanks.

[Goztrider]

What would be the rating on a 16 gauge fusible link?

As I'm going to be wiring my Dubble A in the semi-near future, would it be a good suggestion to - instead of wiring in a fusible link, which is a pain in the ass to change - rather install a circuit breaker type fuse (right terminology?) inline. If there is a problem, it'll trip, and stay tripped if the problem continues. However, it won't be as much of a bitch as the fusible link is to change should it blow.

I just know how much of a bitch it is to change those damned fusible links.

[tfeverfred]

Originally Posted by Goztrider

What would be the rating on a 16 gauge fusible link?

As I'm going to be wiring my Dubble A in the semi-near future, would it be a good suggestion to - instead of wiring in a fusible link, which is a pain in the ass to change - rather install a circuit breaker type fuse (right terminology?) inline. If there is a problem, it'll trip, and stay tripped if the problem continues. However, it won't be as much of a bitch as the fusible link is to change should it blow.

I just know how much of a bitch it is to change those damned fusible links.

In the schematics that my friend sent me, he has a 50 watt main fuse wired into the wire coming off the battery terminal on the fuse block and running to the battery terminal of the solenoid. This takes care of protecting the whole system.

He also shows a30amp circuit breaker running off the dimmerswitch and going to the light switch.

I hope this helps. I'll scan the drawings I have and post them later, so you can get a good idea of what I'm talking about.

[AutoReWire]

Originally Posted by tfeverfred

In the schematics that my friend sent me, he has a 50 watt main fuse wired into the wire coming off the battery terminal on the fuse block and running to the battery terminal of the solenoid. This takes care of protecting the whole system.

Didn't you mean 50 amp???

Originally Posted by Goztrider

What would be the rating on a 16 gauge fusible link?

As I'm going to be wiring my Dubble A in the semi-near future, would it be a good suggestion to - instead of wiring in a fusible link, which is a pain in the ass to change - rather install a circuit breaker type fuse (right terminology?) inline. If there is a problem, it'll trip, and stay tripped if the problem continues. However, it won't be as much of a bitch as the fusible link is to change should it blow.

I just know how much of a bitch it is to change those damned fusible links.

The R.O.T. (rule of Thumb... Who was he anyway?) is to use a wire four sizes smaller than the wire you are protecting. The amperage capacity of the commonly used 7foot length of 10 gauge wire for feeding the basic automotive electrical system is around 100 amps before the wire starts getting too warm. The load capacity of the very short piece of 16 gauge fusible link is obviously higher.

I have seen fusible links referred to as a "primitive fuse" but I hardly agree... A fusible link, be it the length of fusible link wire or the new style of cartridge fusible link are a very good "Slow Blow" type of fuse. They will open if there is a continued over current situation but will not open if there is a short term over current situation such as a motor starting or a random short when you are one of us mentally challenged gray headed mechanics doing something stupid under the hood.

The above reasoning is why I shy away from the One Main Maxi Fuse idea in place of a fusible link.. They don't give you the time to say " Oh shit, I shouldn't have done that". They just blow. Take a look at a new vehicle and you see that they have broken the system down and use multiple Maxi Fuses and Multiple Fusible links as well as single circuit fuses.

BUT... Any type of protection is good protection when it comes to electricity.

If you properly design a system and install the proper protection in the proper places you will not be changing fusible links, unless, there is a serious problem like a sheet metal panel wearing through the insulation of a large wire.

I have to date replaced two fusible links on factory built cars that that I or family members have owned. One on a '78 Chevy one ton when replacing a motor because the harness needed repair due to heat induced insulation failure. The other was a link on my mothers Buick after a transmission shop left the fusible link rubbing on a starter bolt.

I have not replaced one on any of the over 250 vehicles I have rewired, nor have I had to replace one for a wiring kit that I have supplied.

Look at and study any '70's - '80's model GM vehicle for the basic and bullet proof wiring system. Why do all of the kit manufactures copy these systems??? Easy Answer = They work.

Al

[trad27]

Ok, I wont feel bad stealing a year and a half old thread. so I have a 1965 buick 300 with a autozone solenoid. The solenoid has a S, a R, and the main batt terminals. The car has no wiring I am just trying to get it to turn over with jumper cables. The main terminal obviusly goes to the positive the instructions it came with said to hook the R to a prong coming out of the starter, and the only way I can get the starter to turn is by touching the R to the main batt, but I cant get the starter to engage into the flywheel? how can I get it to engage and turn the motor?? I am trying to figure it out so when I wire the car I know what wire does what.

Thanks in advance

[trad27]

ok that makes cents, I guess I misread them and then threw them away learn the hard way I guess, I will try that tomarrow.