I thought I would kick off the April Banger post. Been busy on my coupe the past few weeks with taking 3 inches out of the top. Today after work I worked on putting the matching Thomas intake on my banger motor with plans to be running it at the Lonestar Roundup this Friday. I had to stop for dinner time, so it's not quite done, but I have the entire day off tomorrow and will pick up with it again in the morning. Thomas intake with 2 Stromberg 81 carbs built by me with old Hygrade kits. Matching Thomas Head looks good with this intake!
Not much speed happening this month. Just picked up these two items. Found a nice big crack in the bell-housing. Yes, it was shimmed out. While the whole lot is apart I've used the opportunity to replace the Taiwan special clutch disc with a proper relined original as the one in it keeps slipping more and more. The photo doesn't show the crack but it runs between my fingers. Almost completely around the ear. I've took it all apart from the back. This is so I can have another go through the 'box (4th time) as its still not quite right. Took it the infamous nervous one who quickly found a knackered syncro ring on 2nd. This will hopefully have cured the crunching when down shifting. Also took up some slope in the rear of the gear set and generally tweaked it here and there. Time will tell on this one... And finally while the rear axle is also out I've pulled the rear spring to replace the main leaf with a reversed eye one.
Got a few T questions for you fellows: 1) How much compression do you get with the Snyders "high compression" pistons? Their hi-comp aluminum head is 6.5:1; but they don't list a ratio for the pistons. At $115.00 for a set of four, they seem to be a better bargain if the compression is the same or higher. 2) Bands: What's the preference - TH400? Original style? Kevlar? 3) Can a T engine and trans be safely run without a torque tube attached? 4) How much would you pay for an engine of unknown condition from a junkyard? $100? Less? 5) Finally, what's the preferred carburetor? Probably a Winfield if you can get one, but I thought it was maybe Holley NH? -Dave
Replacing the cooling system on my A speedster project due to some "mouse blockage" found after emptying most of the water out of the cooling system down the entire length of the road in front of my house on a test run. New hoses, lower line and petcock, and radiator. Original rad that came with the car got boiled out and had it's baffle and overflow tube damaged in the process, having that fixed as a "spare" or just a part ready for the NEXT build. My dad wants to build a second one now, I swear it's a sickness. He loves the simplicity of the engine, and we have just about enough parts "in stock" to make another running and driving chassis.
Since it is pretty quiet I will raise my hand and say hello. 30 5 window, unrestored mostly original runner (dad bought it 37 years ago from his uncle). Nothing performance yet, but I did just finish installing a leakless pump so it is easier to put miles on it. Just been reading and trying to figure out a plan of attack on upgrading the ol banger. I always look forward to the monthly meetings even if I only sit in the back and listen.
nothing for me....dog-gone V8's taking up all my time!!!! my poor little 4 banger is still packed away in hibernation....might not be out for a while
Well Enbloc, how long before its all back together? - ready for shake down at Shakey in June? I've also been and seen 'Nervous' this month, what a collection of parts and............... The duel updrafts are working well, and I'm suprised what a differance they make. I've done just over 300 miles on them. The next change will be a higher comp head, I've got a high comp head that look stock fitted (Police car?) at the mo 5.5:1. Thinking of going with a Lion cast lump 6:1, not sure this would make much of an improvement, or I think there is a 7.25:1, but this might be a bit harsh for my old babbit. What is recommended?, not wanting to take it too far............ yet. If only I could stop the stock exhaust manifold leaking (might need a resurface). What gaskets do you chaps out there use? I've tried the 'orrible asbestos type things got them local but lasted for only 50 miles. Back with the original copper ones for now. Also gone with a different dizzy cap and leads - more spark and hotter plugs. I'd better start tidying up the wiring next .
Well, I had a change of plans. I have bought a complete B engine and trans, out of a Ford 1933 Panel. Keeping fingers crossed on what crank is inside. I have read that a truck may have a "C" crank or a heavier unit known an a "BB" crank. I've read that even a "counter-ballanced" crank like this can't ever be truly ballanced. Is that true? What diameter is the front snout of the late B crank? Seems like I could figure a way to have it externally ballanced. Any opinions?
Thanks for the compliment (4ever4)! Wow! There is quite a difference in pick up and responsiveness. The engine doesn't bog down at all when the throttle is tapped on. More acceleration. I haven't opened it up on the highway, but I would imagine there would be more top end the way it feels at around 40 mph. I am having a little trouble with idle when it's cold. It wants to die if I don't choke the first carb a little while it warms up. But once it reaches running temp, it idles very nicely. Using no fuel pump. Running on gravity only. I plan to keep the fuel tank 1/4 full or more at all times to give the carbs a little gravity weight pressure.
Big Cheese- In response to your Model T questions: -Go with the high compression pistons if you are doing a rebuild. The best combo is to use the high compression pistons and a "low" style original Model T head (made before 1918). If you can't find a low style original head, you can safely plane the bottom of a later high head quite a bit. This combo should get you a somewhere near 7:1. The high compression pistons alone will get you about 6:1 -I like Kevlar bands myself, but you need good drums and more importantly you need to know the PROPER way of operating a Model T transmission.If you have thin drums or do not know how to use the pedals, Kevlar bands can cause excessive heat and break the drums. -There is no reason why you can't run and T engine/trans without a torque tube. I have seen alot of open shaft T racecars and remember Model T engines were used as stationary power supplys and had no torque tubes attached. -A good, visually solid engine and trans core that is basically complete is selling for 400-500.00 today. If they are early (pre-1916) they will sell for alot more. Add extra if its got the starter, generator, manifolds, carb, etc. A short block core is probably worth 200.00 +. -Winfields are of course great carburetors if set up right. Nothing wrong with a Holley NH or a Model A/B or Tillitson A carburetor on a Model T. Adapter kits are available for using A manifolds on a T block. Good luck- Nice to see another T guy on the HAMB!!!!- GZ
IS it true??,...could it be??!!,....YES,...the man says my engine will finally be ready for pickup next week as he says I should recieve a call next week to come and pick it up!! Other than that, I stripped down the old chassis, got rid of the 27 roadster body I had, and am still in the process of getting the chassis blasted and painted,.... more to come....
Since finishing Project 29 (search threads on here) we have covered a bunch of miles down here in New Zealand since Christmas. This weekend was a big one though as I blew the T5 gearbox in it on Friday afternoon so I pulled the box out and found that it needed rebuilding big time. As the Hot Rod Blow Out was on Sunday I had another T5 that I had bought so we slotted that in. We had to modify the tail housing to clear the chassis, then I noticed that the input spline and bell housing bolt pattern was different. So I pulled the bell housing out ready to index the gearbox and redrill. Then we found that the throw out bearing housing was smaller in diameter where it mounted to the gearbox so we couldnt properly index the box. That was at 11.30pm Fri night! Up first thing on Sat morning and down to local gearbox shop where they spun up a spacer ring! Then tried two clutch shops before getting a new clutch disc then on to my mates shop - Mac's Speed where we re-drilled the bell housing. By 4pm Saturday the box was back in! WHEW!?
My engine continues to reside in NE Tennessee. Maybe some day it will be home in Arkansas... In the meantime, the rest of the car is coming right along.
Not much from me this month....just carrying on with what was spoken about in March. Spending some time mounting the T touring body to the A chassis, that's about it. Hopefully should be back on the road before the end of April though finding the time to get into the garage is my problem! Clark, what PSI is your Facet fuel pump?
Here's one I had to pass on last week: 30 A coupe, 2 owners, no rust, gennie interior, 16" wires, mech. brakes, 20 ft paint job, leaking radiator. Not bad. a. beat a cash offer of $14,500 (which hasn't come through) b. trade even for my 33 5W coupe in pieces. Sorry, Charlie. But what is under the hood is what got my attention: Gennie iron Schofield (not the Denver repro). But on a bone stock motor. Have pics, but couldn't reduce them enough, if anybody's interested.
Almost forgot. Bought this little gem off e-gay for my sprint car. 28 AR multi-disc clutch can turned down and indexed, and an all steel clutch.
Not long hopefully. Weekend? I'm not going anywhere until I get my spring back early next week, so I'm not rushing. Aiming for a shakedown at North Weald RWYB on 11th May. Its going to run a little rougher when cold because there's no hot spot any more. Try winding out the idle mixture screws a tad more. It may help when the engines cold. The "Road" version. 2.5-3 psi. I don't bother with a regulator anymore.
Okay its more Q&A time for me. I am thinking about an H&H four banger - just read the May 2008 Street Rodder and keen to investigate this option. Anyone had any experience with them? Also, when fitting a factory counterbalanced crank to an A block and fitting inserts what have you guys done? Bore the block out or turn the crank down or a mixture of both?
Thought about that but its early '29 (Jan. 1st to be precise), and Ford did away with them for the first 6 month of '29, I'm advised. But just done a 120 mile trip with copper gaskets and a good quality very high temp RTV and didn't blow a bit - fingers crossed!! If its start again I'll rig up some glands cheers.
Banger Update,... Picked up three more Winfield carbs,..two S models and one SR, along with a single down draft Winfield manifold. HOWEVER!!,...now the real part of this post... Ok guys,...its time to play... "WHO MADE THIS, ANY HISTORY ANYONE KNOWS OF IT,... and/or WHAT DOES THIS NEED TO FINISH IT UP? So in a nutshell, I picked this up off an older gentleman in CA. He said he talked with the fellow "PARKER" who cast it, but it was a long time ago (not sure how long it was,...2 yrs,...20 yrs...50 yrs??) You'll see a fuzzy photo with "PARKER MAGNETO" cast into the side of the casting,...the fellow I bought it from said he thinks the guy made a lot of Model T parts and then some A parts. Anyway,..I was hoping that one of you fellows might have a little bit of historical knowledge pertaining to who PARKER was/is and technically speaking, after looking at the photos, what it will need to be able to be used and run. Looks like it will obviously need a face plate, and looks to need an inset machined in for a selaed bearing?? Also looks to have been roughly cut for someone's past clearance issues,..easy fixes. I have a good general idea after looking at it and comparing it to others I had seen in the recent past. So, here we go,...thanks in advance as always!
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