FYI: Make your own tail light lenses, even with LED Tail light guts...

[Abomination]

Just in case you were wondering, I guess Lambert's sells conversion kits, etc... if you're into the LED thing:
http://www.lambertenterprises.com/custom.html









As for pouring your own lenses, here ya go:
http://www.alumilite.com/index.php?p...ype=HOWS&id=48

[roadkillontheweb]

Alumilite is ok but I like the rubbers and plastics from Polytek better http://www.polytek.com/ I have been using them for about ten years now to make reproduction parts and have been very pleased. They also make a lot of 1:1 mix ratio products that are easier to use than 10:1 or similar mix ratios. Also I have never had to use a mold release other than vasaline to keep the two mold sides from sticking together. And I have never needed to vacuum de-air the rubber!

The attached photos show the seering wheels I make with embedded steel cores, The mold that makes them, a 66 Pony and corral being formed, original (worn) 1955-56 Thunderbird vacuum formed lens and the molding process left to right in order to make new vacuum formed lenses, 1957 Thunderbird process to reproduction, and a 65-66 Mustang JR 1/3rd scale body to give reference to what the parts are made for.

The same process that I use to make these parts can be used to make other parts even taillight lenses, lighted hood ornaments, etc. when you use tinted clear plastic. You could even use a hand formed custom one off design done in wood clay or whatever. Just remember that the rubber even picks up finger prints on the original pieces and reproduces them again and again.

[BarryA]

Just one thing to keep in mind with silicone rubber - you need a release agent on glass!! Don't ask how I found that out Apparently rather than being smooth, the surface of glass has lots of microscopic pores..... Just don't go trashing an irreplaceable lense!

I use Wacker products, but whatever you use get the addition curing type (platinum based catalyst) which don't shrink like the cheaper condensation (tin based) ones. They will hold dimensional accuracy better, and your castings won't get "smaller" as the mould gets older.

Still looking for a supplier of dyes for clear acrylic here in darkest Africa

Barry

[roadkillontheweb]

Originally Posted by BarryA

Just one thing to keep in mind with silicone rubber - you need a release agent on glass!! Don't ask how I found that out Apparently rather than being smooth, the surface of glass has lots of microscopic pores..... Just don't go trashing an irreplaceable lense!

I use Wacker products, but whatever you use get the addition curing type (platinum based catalyst) which don't shrink like the cheaper condensation (tin based) ones. They will hold dimensional accuracy better, and your castings won't get "smaller" as the mould gets older.

Still looking for a supplier of dyes for clear acrylic here in darkest Africa

Barry

Yes indeed the platinum based materials are a little more expensive but well worth it. I have some molds that are several years old and they are still good to use.

I have never tried glass. i will have to test it next time I make a mold but I have never had the material I use stick to anything other than itself so far.

As far as getting the dyes to Africa you will probably have to get somebody here to buy it and ship it to you. I would like to buy a 1963-64 Desoto Rebel or 1962 Diplomat but getting anything from the notorious scam central known as Souh Africa is not an easy task.

[Abomination]

By the way, here's a related thread - there's some sources on flat plexiglas as well!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=237325

~Jason

[Richard D]

Originally Posted by roadkillontheweb

The attached photos show the seering wheels I make with embedded steel cores, .

You should make some of those $2000 Merc accessory wheels.

[Abomination]

LOL! No shit, dude!

~Jason

Originally Posted by Richard D

You should make some of those $2000 Merc accessory wheels.