Put the Zinc back into your oil!

[no55mad]

www.zddplus.com Need a good stiff shot of ZDDP, click on the site listed here. Trying to get these guys to become Alliance Vendors. They are car guys like us.

[Malcolm]

Originally Posted by 392_hemi

Mobil 15-50 still has zinc, as does the Castrol full synthetic 20-50. But both are expensive, and with something like a flathead, will probably cause leaks when they start cleaning out all the old crap that's keeping things sealed up. Ask me how I know. Re: the lower zinc content in Rotella and EOS, etc., it doesn't take much, and after a point, more is not better. Best bet to me is to use Rotella or regular 20w-50 with an additive (EOS, Comp Cams, Crane, etc.).

Thanks for the extra info.
I've been running the 10w-30 Rotella T in the 390 in my Galaxie.
Do you think I should go ahead and run 15w-40 (Rotella)? I don't drive it in temps below 40 and the engine is only slightly worn - doesn't use any oil.

Malcolm

[Abomination]

Nope. The bottle says, "Harmful or fatal if swallowed; Cherry Flavor."



~Jason

Originally Posted by loudpedal

Does this one have the 'grape sent' too?

[Abomination]

No prob, man.

~Jason.

Originally Posted by Stude350guy

Thanks, Man! I'll show this to my GM parts guy so he'll know that's its back and he has a number to work with. Appreciate it

[Unkl Ian]

Originally Posted by 392_hemi

Mobil 15-50 still has zinc, as does the Castrol full synthetic 20-50.

How much ?????

10 parts per million doesn't count,if you need 1000.

[Wyle E Coyote]

Just find a dealer for Brad Penn racing oil. It's got all the good stuff and is cheaper then buying 5 quarts and an additive.

[jonny o]

Should we believe that new cams and lifters are designed to work without the zinc?
It's funny how many stories I read about new cam and valvetrain components failing too soon.

[53sled]

I'm gonna use a roller cam. That'll show em!

[joeybsyc]

They don't make the red bottle STP anymore... that's why its not readily available... it will be gone completely very soon. i use Rotella and a bottle of the blue STP, it has almost as much zinc, and doesn't hurt a thing. The Rotella still has alot of zinc too, just not as much as it used to. Together they'll give you all the zinc you need, and it's the cheapest combination of zinc enriched products you can get IMO... Running this setup in 3 cars with no problems in any of em. Didn't someone post "proof" that all this zinc folklore is a myth anyhow?

[George]

CI-4 diesel oil is high zinc, the new CJ-4 isn't. CJ is same as car oil.

[Flat Ernie]

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGIH_enUS226US227&q=oil+zinc+zddp+site:jalopyjournal%2ecom

More info on oil than you care to read - right here on the HAMB

[zbuickman]

Originally Posted by George

CI-4 diesel oil is high zinc, the new CJ-4 isn't. CJ is same as car oil.

no its not......... rotella cj-4 is 1200 ppm ZDDP down from 1300ppm in CI and all the new car "street legal" versons are at 300ppm ZDDP. any oil that conforms to the API standards will have thes contents. the Fleet oils have a higher ZDDP level but in the Diesel viscositys(15-40) the reason the ZDDP levels have been decreased is for catalytic convertor performance and warranty. they can get away with this because ALL the newer gas engines have roller lifters. in time the low ZDDP levels will wipe your cam. put in the additive run a Diesel, Fleet or non api approved oil. or change to a roller cam. Do not run any of the above oils in a new car as the warranty will be voided

[joeybsyc]

Originally Posted by zbuickman

no its not......... rotella cj-4 is 1200 ppm ZDDP down from 1300ppm in CI and all the new car "street legal" versons are at 300ppm ZDDP. any oil that conforms to the API standards will have thes contents. the Fleet oils have a higher ZDDP level but in the Diesel viscositys(15-40) the reason the ZDDP levels have been decreased is for catalytic convertor performance and warranty. they can get away with this because ALL the newer gas engines have roller lifters. in time the low ZDDP levels will wipe your cam. put in the additive run a Diesel, Fleet or non api approved oil. or change to a roller cam. Do not run any of the above oils in a new car as the warranty will be voided

'zactly! That's what i do. The "new" Rotella still has WAY more zinc than "car oil", and is only 100ppm down from what it ever had. With the STP additive its more than enough zinc.

[Paul2748]

Originally Posted by George

My understanding is thenew EOS doesn't have ZDDP. The red 4 cyl STP has, but the Blue doesn't. check out www.zddplus.com

The red and blue STP have a high ZPPD content. Red is a little better.

[Dino the weirdo]

Dum-dum here,...curious to facination with Zinc in oil ...why , what ,when ...years of motors it's needed,etc. You guys way over my head here.

[George]

Originally Posted by Dino the weirdo

Dum-dum here,...curious to facination with Zinc in oil ...why , what ,when ...years of motors it's needed,etc. You guys way over my head here.

Zinc is considered the best for lubing non roller cams. It isn't nessesary on cars with roller cams (mid 80s) & it increases emissions so the car companys had the oil companys eliminate it from car oil. There has been a rash of cam failures reported, mainly with high spring pressures. Is it the lack of zinc, bad cams or lifters? Both? People don't seem to be sure.

[Dino the weirdo]

AH-So...early '08's & earlier need a zinc injection. Does unleaded gas also contribute to these failures? looking at a'64 427 Fairlane. What do I run it on ?

[THE235KID]

I know this is a bit off topic but this stuff is amazing.
If you want to make sure you engine is being lubed properly this is a must. It expensive but I have seen it work. A guy I know took an old worn out Ford inliner and put it on a stand and ran it for a while with fresh oil and the recomended amout of this stuff in it. Then he drained all the oil and took off the valve cover, side plate and the oil pan. Then with no oil or sheet metal on the engine he fired it up. No noise, no smoke, no grinding no nothing. It ran like a top, never got hot, never ate up any berrings and the rocker arms and pushrods were almost silent. I think the engine has almost 1000 hours running on the stand with no oil. And it still runs great and has no noise whatsoever. I wouldn't have believed it unless I saw it for myself.

I haven't put it my engine yet but from the tests I saw this stuff is amazing. Expensive but amazing. I think it is at least worth looking into.


http://www.lubricationproducts.com/index.htm

[damnfingers]

And then again maybe the sky isn't falling?

http://www.fmrcoa.org/newsletter/200...ter_Screen.pdf

It's nice to read a dissenting opinion every once in a while...

[nexxussian]

I would have to agree with him at least on the point he makes that the performance grinds are more susceptible to failure. Keeping in mind there are flat tappets out today that are wilder than some of the older roller grinds.

But then we have had a few failures at work (with the ground support equipment) and those were all O.E. replacement type cams so.

He mentions phosphating the cams, I personally think the $20 or so it costs to Parkerize a flat tappet cam is worth it (assuming you have it out already).

And yes I definitely like to read a dissenting opinion, especially from a credentialed industry rep.