Welcome to the THE H.A.M.B. forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Go Back   THE H.A.M.B. > General Discussion > The Hokey Ass Message Board

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-26-2007, 10:17 PM   #1
HemiDeuce
Alliance Member
 
HemiDeuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Just N. of Pt. Roberts, WA.
Posts: 951
Default How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

I bought a Winters #SR 3605 V8 Centre Kit, it comes complete with the pinion installed in the case, a 3:78 ring gear, Wedge lock gear drive posi unit, one set of change gears of your choice, bearings, shims and O rings. I also ordered the optional plain rear cover, rather than the finned standard cover.

I am using 40 Ford side bells with big bearing 9" housing ends, & brakes, & push in 31 spline axels.

They claim this rear end will handle 500 HP, as long as your aren't side stepping the clutch with slicks on the drag strip.

I searched the web, and phoned a number of people that sell these units, but could not get a definitive answer on "HOW" to set this rear end up, only the specs, so I decided to figure it out myself.

This is how I did it.

The side bell preload and pinion backlash, is set much like the stock early Ford rear end, only you are using shims on either side of the carrier, instead of gaskets, between the side bells.

The pinion is factory installed in the case, and it's pre-load is set a 20 in.lb. Therefore, you do not need to mess with that.

You will need a set of "set-up bearings", so I bought another set of 25592 Timken carrier bearings, and a new set of 25522 Timken cups, which I installed in the side bells. I had the 25592 carrier bearings honed out so they would just slide on and off the carrier, making the set-up easier. Pic. # 1

Side bell preload with the Wedge lock carrier installed, should be .007.
This is done by adding shims and the spacer, between the bearings and the carrier, so there is absolutely no side movement of the carrier, when the center section is bolted up to the side bells. The .007 is added to the total for the pre-load. I found this impossible to do, without being able to get a feller gauge between the carrier and the carrier bearings, with the assembly bolted together.

I machined four spacers the exact length of the center section, out of 5/8" DOM tubing and threaded them 3/8-24, on both ends, to space the side bells apart, the same distance as the center section, with the carrier, shims, spacer, and bearings installed. Pic.# 2.

Stand the left housing on the ground, and assemble the carrier and shim pack with bearings, and then bolt the right side housing together, lift it up on the bench for your measurements. Pic#3.

Do not bolt the Ring Gear to the carrier yet, as it is much easier to measure for the required number of shims without it in place. Double check, that the carrier is tight, and has absolutely no side play between the side bells, then add the .007 for your carrier pre-load.

Once you have the carrier pre load established, you can bolt the ring gear to the carrier, taking care to position it correctly, and torque to 60 ft. lbs. in steps, using Red Locktite and the supplied Belleville washers and bolts. Pic#4.

To set the Pinion backlash, start with an excessive amount of shims on the backlash side (right side) of the carrier. This is to prevent a false pre-load reading. A false pre-load reading will occur if the ring & pinion are crushed against each other.

Again, this is easiest to do if you stand the left housing on the ground, insert the carrier, the centre section, and then install the right side housing, bolt it together and then place on your bench to do your checking. Pic#5.

Winters supplies shims in the following thickness, .007, .010, .012, & .016.

These are some of the combinations you are likely to use. Pic#6.

You should take notes of the combinations you are using. Pic#7 & 12.

Move shims from the right side to the left side, until a back lash of .004 to .008 with no tight spots is achieved, measured at the upper change gear pinion, without the change gears in place. Pic#10.

I made a small clamp to assist in this. Pic#11.

The total preload of the assembled assembly should be 27 to 29 in.lbs. measured with a beam or dial style, torque wrench.

After completing this set-up, it occurred to me that with the thousands of these units produced, and the precision CNC equipment that machines them, the final set up would probably be pretty much the same, on all of them.

My final set up was, .100 to eliminate any side play, plus .007 for the preload, for .107 total. In my final set up, the split was, .050 on the left side of the carrier, and .057 on the right side of the carrier. In addition, there is a .125 spacer on the right side of the carrier in all of these calculations. Pic#9.

With the pre-load and backlash established, the checker bearings are removed, and replaced with the permanent pressed on bearings, leaving the shims and spacer in place. Pic#8.

I drilled and tapped the right side bell, for a pipe plug 1 3/4" below the centre line of the axel, to fill, and check the fluid level in the ring and pinion, carrier, part of the assembly. There is also a fill plug on the Winters QC unit at the rear left side of the change gear housing. Pic#13 & 14.

The complete assembly is reassembled with O-rings sealing the side bells to the centre section, and torqued to 30 ft. lbs. in an alternating criss cross pattern, in steps.

I ordered my quick change with a # 3 set of straight cut gears, and a set of # 4 helical gears, which should be shimmed to .005 to .010. Pic#15 & # 16.
No sense having a Quick change, with out changing gears occasionally, or when the straight cut's noise start to get on your nerves.

I also replaced the High nuts and studs, with Kit #2931, which have shorter studs, & flanged nuts. Pic# 17.
I think they look more traditional, and clears the tank, with out modifying it.

Measure for axels to the centre of the carrier, parting line inside, and deduct 1/8". Pic# 18.

Then add your axels and brakes.

I put the car on the road in July, and then went for a 3,000 mi. trip, so this set up works for me.

Sorry I was unable to insert the following pictures in the proper sequence.

Pictures are numbered left to right, top to bottom.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	QC Set up 017 (Small).jpg
Views:	668
Size:	54.3 KB
ID:	381849   Click image for larger version

Name:	not sure 215 (Small).jpg
Views:	644
Size:	63.5 KB
ID:	381853   Click image for larger version

Name:	not sure 210 (Small).jpg
Views:	779
Size:	57.4 KB
ID:	381854  

Click image for larger version

Name:	QC Set up 010 (Small).jpg
Views:	699
Size:	82.2 KB
ID:	381863   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 012 (Small).jpg
Views:	1104
Size:	46.0 KB
ID:	381864   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Shim Combinations (Small).jpg
Views:	706
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	381866  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 009 (Small).jpg
Views:	605
Size:	50.1 KB
ID:	381867   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 013 (Small).jpg
Views:	680
Size:	55.2 KB
ID:	381868   Click image for larger version

Name:	not sure 219 (Small).jpg
Views:	636
Size:	60.4 KB
ID:	381869  

Click image for larger version

Name:	QC Set up 005 (Small).jpg
Views:	1064
Size:	59.2 KB
ID:	381870   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 007 (Small).jpg
Views:	617
Size:	41.8 KB
ID:	381871   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Shim Set Up (Small).jpg
Views:	654
Size:	24.0 KB
ID:	381873  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 001 (Small).jpg
Views:	610
Size:	39.6 KB
ID:	381876   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 002 (Small).jpg
Views:	617
Size:	42.1 KB
ID:	381877   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 003 (Small).jpg
Views:	646
Size:	46.9 KB
ID:	381882  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 006 (Small).jpg
Views:	1022
Size:	53.2 KB
ID:	381883   Click image for larger version

Name:	Winters QC Set-up 008 (Small).jpg
Views:	666
Size:	53.1 KB
ID:	381884   Click image for larger version

Name:	QC Set up 012 (Small).jpg
Views:	707
Size:	50.0 KB
ID:	381890  

Click image for larger version

Name:	QC Set up 018 (Small).jpg
Views:	1031
Size:	90.9 KB
ID:	381891   Click image for larger version

Name:	Deuce Day 2007 024 (Small).jpg
Views:	674
Size:	90.7 KB
ID:	381895  

Last edited by HemiDeuce; 01-09-2014 at 11:04 PM. Reason: merged
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 10:44 PM   #2
banjorear
Old School HAMBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Garden State
Posts: 3,066
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Please tell more. I'm really interested in this info,
__________________
I was bored before I even began.
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2007, 01:21 PM   #3
HemiDeuce
Alliance Member
 
HemiDeuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Just N. of Pt. Roberts, WA.
Posts: 951
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Thanks to Flat Ernie for merging my 5 posts into one.
If I could just figure out how to insert the pictures into the correct paragraphs, it would make a little more sence.
HemiDeuce.

Last edited by HemiDeuce; 01-07-2013 at 10:29 PM.
offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 11-27-2007, 01:36 PM   #4
Rolf
Senior Member
 
Rolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Woodinville WA USA
Posts: 1,840
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Great tech, and it sure made that roadster look good.
__________________
Rolf
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2009, 12:16 AM   #5
32ford5
Senior Member
 
32ford5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,061
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Thanks for that. My V8 rear will be arriving soon and it has the same specs as yours. This info will come in very handy.
__________________
Bill
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2009, 12:55 PM   #6
HemiDeuce
Alliance Member
 
HemiDeuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Just N. of Pt. Roberts, WA.
Posts: 951
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

This Winters V8 Quick-Change is a great rear end, and I've put about 13,000 miles on mine and it looks and works perfect.
HemiDeuce.
__________________
How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick Change.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=225131
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2009, 02:18 PM   #7
fab32
Alliance Member
 
fab32's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bay City, Mi. USA
Posts: 13,817
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Well thought out tech. The only deviation in the outcome would be any differences in the "check/setup" bearings and the ones used for actual assembly. Being produced buy the thousands in every production run should pretty much negate any difference. Bearings have the closest manufacturing tollerances of any part of an automobile/truck. Thanks for sharing.

Frank
__________________
"What we got here is failure to communicate"
online   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2009, 03:53 PM   #8
32ford5
Senior Member
 
32ford5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,061
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Quote:
They claim this rear end will handle 500 HP, as long as your aren't side stepping the clutch with slicks on the drag strip.
My Buick 425 Nailhead will have dual carbs, hot spark, head work and port matching and a lumpy cam pushing TA rockers. I'll be running a 3 speed GM truck manual box and Firestone Dragsters. I'm not planning on trying to get the lowest ET at the drags every weekend but I do love mashing the pedal. I'm not really a rev and dump kind of guy preferring any rear tyre action to come from throttle only.

The Buick 425 dual quad has 465 lb/ft from factory so I'm guessing it'll be closer to 500 lb/ft (with about 400 HP). Not sure how much of that actually makes it's way to the rear but I have the same Winters QC coming and I'm wondering how will it hold up to the power of the 425 in your opinions?
__________________
Bill
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2009, 05:37 PM   #9
HemiDeuce
Alliance Member
 
HemiDeuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Just N. of Pt. Roberts, WA.
Posts: 951
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by fab32 View Post
Well thought out tech. The only deviation in the outcome would be any differences in the "check/setup" bearings and the ones used for actual assembly. Being produced buy the thousands in every production run should pretty much negate any difference. Bearings have the closest manufacturing tollerances of any part of an automobile/truck. Thanks for sharing.

Frank
Frank, I always use Timken Bearings as I consider them the best, not always the cheapest, but the best, and I would think they would have near perfect dimensions.
Measuring the spacers I used, in place of the center section, offers a greater possibility of error if you do not have a large set of micrometers to get those dimensions exact.
HemiDeuce.
__________________
How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick Change.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=225131

Last edited by HemiDeuce; 11-27-2009 at 05:46 PM.
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 10:32 AM   #10
Paul
Editor
 
Paul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lahar Valley, WA
Posts: 12,180
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

well done, thank you
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 10:50 AM   #11
Pewsplace
Senior Member
 
Pewsplace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Simi valley, CA
Posts: 1,435
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Very well done and informative. I have the same set up but have not installed the carrier bearings. Using a second set seems to be the answer. What ends did you use on the Ford bells? Do they slip into the housing or butt weld?

I have used Dutchman but I like the look of yours better.
Lynn
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 05:37 PM   #12
HemiDeuce
Alliance Member
 
HemiDeuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Just N. of Pt. Roberts, WA.
Posts: 951
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

I bought the Big Bearing Ford ends from Dutchman and butt welded them on the ends of the 40 Ford Side Bells.
The drum to drum width on mine is 57".
HemiDeuce.
__________________
How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick Change.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=225131

Last edited by HemiDeuce; 11-29-2009 at 05:43 PM.
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 09:42 PM   #13
stillrunners
Alliance Member
 
stillrunners's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: dallas
Posts: 2,867
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

wow....
__________________
"just a wrench short of a full toolbox"
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2010, 11:13 PM   #14
Bib Overalls
Alliance Member
 
Bib Overalls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Jonesboro, Arkansas
Posts: 3,768
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Great tech. I am in the process of sourcing a Winters SR 3605 with the SR 8211V cover. Not cheap. But stronger than any of the other V8 sized QC centers that use the original Ford R&P, carrier, and spider gears. My plan was to sub out the assembly. But now I think that I may be able to do it myself.

I will be using the Hot Rod Works late axle conversion that retains the stock axle bell ends.

Thanks!
__________________
Plan ahead.
Sweat the details.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ratpoison/
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 02:06 AM   #15
vintagehotrods
Senior Member
 
vintagehotrods's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: formerly Crooks, South Dakota and now Prescott, AZ USA
Posts: 1,959
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Great tech! I need to archive this one for future reference. Thanks for taking the time to educate us!
__________________
Editor of the Mid-West Deuces "Deuce Gazette"
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 07:01 PM   #16
HemiDeuce
Alliance Member
 
HemiDeuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Just N. of Pt. Roberts, WA.
Posts: 951
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Another interesting thing that I discovered about using the Winters V8 Quick change in a 32 Ford, is you do not have to notch the gas tank for clearance.
The Winters V8 unit is 3 1/2" from the side bell flange to the rear cover, and the Halibrand is 4 1/2" for the same measurement. All other dimensions appear to be the same.
HemiDeuce.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1118 (Medium).JPG
Views:	145
Size:	60.2 KB
ID:	1115631  
__________________
How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick Change.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=225131
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2011, 02:58 AM   #17
striper
Old School HAMBer
 
striper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central Vic, Australia
Posts: 4,404
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bib Overalls View Post
Great tech. I am in the process of sourcing a Winters SR 3605 with the SR 8211V cover. Not cheap. But stronger than any of the other V8 sized QC centers that use the original Ford R&P, carrier, and spider gears. My plan was to sub out the assembly. But now I think that I may be able to do it myself.

I will be using the Hot Rod Works late axle conversion that retains the stock axle bell ends.

Thanks!
Just started on mine today. Of course I knew about this thread (thanks HemiDeuce) but didn't bother to read it this morning. Went out and installed the ring gear. Doh. Should be OK. I've set up one banjo before so I get the picture.

This is a great tech thread and it follows pretty much the description in the Winters Tech manual. The one question I have though is about why you had to use those spacers. If you trial fit until you have zero clearance between the bells and the centre section, then add your .007 surely it would achieve the desired outcome.

Great idea on the set up bearings. I have no idea how you would do it otherwise. The Winters manual just says you move the shims around until you get the fit you need but I don't know how you would do that once the bearings are pressed on over the spacer and shims.

I'll let you know how I get on. I can't do any more until my axle housings get back from the machinist. Hopefully early next week.

Pete
__________________
VULTURES
Australia

http://www.readersdigest.com.au/most-trusted-professions-2013
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2011, 11:08 AM   #18
DICK SPADARO
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Altamont, New York
Posts: 1,901
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

This is my take on setting up the carrier crush on this rear end.

First you are going to have to make some kind of vertical holding attachment to support the axle assembly on a work bench or engine stand.

If you are using original style bells you must use a paper gasket to prevent the joint from leaking. I use the .005 gasket as a seal on each side.

It is a good idea to have a set of set up bearings and you can actually use a good set of used bearings if you want to. Just hone out the center so the bearing slides over the carrier snout as already outlined.

Now this is a two part task, setting the carrier crush and setting the pinion back lash, first the crush.

To begin to set the crush, you should remove the ring gear from the carrier, it is not absolutely necessary but by removing the gear it eliminates the pinion drag and a more accurate feel is accomplished.

Position the left axle tube vertically, drop on a banjo gasket, install the set up bearing using the medium thickness spacer, then the carrier, then install the QC case to the lower banjo tube and fasten with 4 bolts in a square pattern.

Now position a gasket on the right tube using a light film of grease to hold it in place, install the opposite side set up bearing and the medium spacer, Carefully install the right tube. This tube should not set flat upon the QC case. If it does remove the tube and the center section and replace the bearing spacers with the next thickness larger and reassemble the unit. At this time the right tube should not set tightly upon the QC case.

With the upper bell setting squarely on the QC take a feeler gauge and measure the distance on each side of the upper bell flange to the QC case surface to determine the distance required for the proper bearing crush. If the spec's say it is .007 and your gauge measures .007 then you are good to go. If not this is where the hard part starts.

Since the carrier should be somewhat evenly spaced between the cones it is necessary to balance the shim stack on the carrier bearings. EXAMPLE: Should your feeler gauge read .015 this would mean that the carrier bearing shim stack is to LARGE and must be thinner. Since you need .007 crush, you would determine the amount of shim to be removed by subtracting .007 from .015 equaling .008 and divide this by 2 to balance the spacing per side giving a difference of .004 spacing that must be removed from each carrier shim to achieve the correct crush. At this time you would disassemble your unit and adjust the thickness of the carrier bearing spacers as necessary evenly reducing the spacer thickness on both sides to achieve the determined crush clearance. Reassemble and recheck your clearance again.

After establishing the correct crush the next step is to check the ring gear back lash.

Remove the QC case and carrier from the left tube and reinstall the ring gear on the carrier remembering to torque the bolts correctly. Reassemble the unit and this time install 4 bolts in a square pattern on the upper tube also and tighten. This establishes the positioning to determine the pinion back lash. With the QC gear cover removed attempt to rock the pinion shaft back and forth on the ring gear, if it does not rock there is no pinion clearance, if the pinion rocks a lot there is too much pinion clearance. The correct amount of rock can be determined by using a dial indicator and you should have between .008 and .011" of movement.

If you have no movement the ring gear is binding with the pinion and must be adjusted further away. To do this requires that the carrier bearing shims be adjusted from side to side to insure that the spacing of the crush remains the same but the relationship of the gears changes. In the case of being to tight the ring gear must be moved away from the pinion so this requires the cone bearing spacer to be made thinner so you would exchange the left cone bearing spacer for a thinner spacer and add the same amount of difference to the right side cone bearing spacer. Say you had equal .010 spacers on each cone to achieve a movement of .005 out you would replace the left cone spacer with a .005 spacer and the right cone spacer would be increased to .015. This would retain the same crush spacing but move the ring gear away from the pinion to achieve the correct amount of back lash. The reverse is applied if you have too much back lash, you would add spacing to the left side carrier bearing and remove spacing from the right side carrier bearing moving the gear closer to the pinion and reducing the back lash.

Now this takes a couple tries so you should not be using any sealers or attempt to bolt this tight the first time, it may require two or three checks to get each of the components aligned correctly.

Once you are satisfied that you have all the clearances correct you can disassemble the unit and install the new carrier bearings apply a tin coat of gasket cement on the banjo gaskets, reassemble the unit and torque the nuts.

Hope this helps you out.
__________________
www.dickspadaro.com

Last edited by DICK SPADARO; 12-03-2011 at 11:13 AM.
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 02:13 AM   #19
striper
Old School HAMBer
 
striper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central Vic, Australia
Posts: 4,404
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Thanks Dick. Everything you have written is how I understand it. The only thing I am unsure of is the use of the paper gaskets with the Winters kit.

The kit does not come with the usual full range of gaskets, just a 2 different thicknesses and also a pair of black standard gasket material gaskets. I figure that since we are using shims behind the carrier bearings to set the pre load and pinion backlash that would be the reason for the standard gaskets and lack of various thicknesses. I thought I would set mine up using the standard gaskets as they appear to offer the best sealing properties but the final thickness when torqued down is essentially unknown.

Maybe that is where my plan needs to change and I should use a couple of the coloured gaskests with a known thickness. I guess that makes sense.

Do the supplied O rings work? I am assuming from your comment that they don't work with original axle bells.

Heading out tomorrow to get a set of set up bearings. Wish me luck with finding someone to hone them for me. You have no idea how hard it is to do anything in this backwater.

Thanks.

Pete
__________________
VULTURES
Australia

http://www.readersdigest.com.au/most-trusted-professions-2013
offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 10:21 AM   #20
DICK SPADARO
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Altamont, New York
Posts: 1,901
Default Re: TECH: How to set-up a Winters V8 Quick-Change

Striper, Now I didnt carefully look at this post so I assumed 11/26 was this year well it actually 2007 so I'm a little slow on the trigger. Depending on which unit you purchased will determine the gasket. If you purchased the complete traditional style rearend with the new taper tubes, this unit uses an "O" ring seal so the paper gaskets are not necessary. If you have purchased the Hot rod V8 rearend which uses the early ford tubes converted to late model axles, this uses a wedge lock differential and requires the posted set up. I just use the thinest gasket to act as a seal with the old tubes hoping this will prevent the lube from weeping at the joint. Because they are so thin they do not squish down and change the crush setting when tightened. Now if you purchased the Early ford Quickchange that I market for original Ford bells and axles, this uses the bell gaskets to determine the carrier crush and the setup procedure is just like an original banjo where you swap the bell gaskets to get the carrier spacing.

You dont need any thing special to hone out an old bearing , just a small engine cylinder hone and a hand drill.
__________________
www.dickspadaro.com
offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:48 PM.