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#21 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 4,696
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Was it a white, chopped van? There was a guy from KY or TN at the Cinematic with one. He said it rode like utter crap and was scary on the highway. In fact, the first thing he did when he got to the show was change the wheels to smaller ones so he could steer. I forget how he lowered the front (i took pics underneath), but he c-notched the frame and added a huge hump in the bed to lower the rear
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http://www.chromeczars.com http://www.hunnertcarpileup.com Metalflake: The new flat black |
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#22 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: tucson (Picture Rocks) arizona
Posts: 4,260
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Quote:
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Be nice to strangers.......They may sit on your jury! |
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#23 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 4,696
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I love those Dodge's, too.
Here's the chopped/lowered van from the Cinematic that I mentioned
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http://www.chromeczars.com http://www.hunnertcarpileup.com Metalflake: The new flat black |
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#24 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: tucson (Picture Rocks) arizona
Posts: 4,260
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my favorite A 100
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Be nice to strangers.......They may sit on your jury! |
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#25 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Canton,Oh
Posts: 1,382
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Quote:
But there a blast to drive! The looks you get are priceless. later,Bill
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FOR SALE 37 Ford pickup http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=505507 Buick switch pitch trans $250 |
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#26 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: co. springs
Posts: 3,696
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Quote:
but damn, it ain't even low! ![]() while working on mine, i had it sitting on the brake drums to reach the roof for paintwork, that's about how high it sat off the ground. i did a little measuring while it was like that, up front you could get tires to fit pretty easy, even tucked up high in the wheelwells, provided you ran as much backspacing as possible, or got in there and cut out those humps that are towards the outside of the wheelwells. |
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#27 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: washington state. "on the wet side"
Posts: 5,094
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my 65' runs great and stopping sucks! in the past i helped a guy try and lower his and after messing with it for way longer than we should have ended up getting another front end to replace the one we fucked up! tire rub is a major issue and if you attempt to raise the wheelwells you will not be happy with the results.
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#28 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Catlettsburg, KY
Posts: 354
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Hellfish, I think that was it. The wheels look the same, but it was primed flat black at the pumpkin run.
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I may not be good, but I sure am slow!
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#29 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Reseda, in the SFV!
Posts: 531
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We are men of action, lies do not become us. |
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#30 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 4,696
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that's where a lot of the info posted here came from
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http://www.chromeczars.com http://www.hunnertcarpileup.com Metalflake: The new flat black |
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#31 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Amarillo,Texas
Posts: 286
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When I last built my econoline(1992) I was more concerned about driveability. I was living in the mountains and using it for a work truck. lots of fast mountain roads. I lowered the whole drivetrain ( 302 and c-6) 3 inches. This really helped the center of gravity, made the old truck go around corners good. The headers are so low that I have overloaded the truck and it was dragging the headers.
When overloaded it would lower the whole truck evenly on all 4 corners, and the front tires would touch in a tight turn. |
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#32 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: gilbert, az
Posts: 868
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I have just lowered my 61. First I static dropped with with a MAS axle and flipped the rear springs. I went with a 5 inch dropped axle, narrowed an inch on each side. This is super important as it helps your tire rub issue on the small inner fender. Which btw would be best to be popped in or cutt out. I can say that I would recommend a MAS axle. Its very beefy and fit as it should.
The truck looked great but was not very drivable unless your a hard ass, or you lift it up a bit. Also, before I started I measured with re arched springs that had settled for 6 months. If I were to keep the static drop I would have to have raised the front up at least an inch and stiffened it up quit a bit. Heres the issues you will run into. Steering, we had to cutt and reshape the steering arm. Some tire clearance, I used a 26 inch tall tire and rim but its a skinny drag wheel. We had only four inches of travel before the axle would bounce of the shift arms. (3 spd). Maybe 5 inches to the oil pan and the bottom radiator hose. By flipping the axle over the spring in the back, ud have to beef up the spring. It bottomed out to easily...I only had 3 to 4 inches of travel before it bounce off the pumpkin. My friend at LOWBOY in Mesa put two four links in it and bagged it with full heim joint steering. We are working all the buggs out of it as we speak. I will say that sway bars are a must. I will put out a bunch a pix and a tech article about the whole thing once I get it cleaned up. You can see pics of it static dropped in one of the web sites in my signature.
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Get ur bitchass in the kitchen and cook me some pie! http://www.myspace.com/erock805 http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/erock805 Always looking for Econoline parts, spindles, steering boxes other.... |
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#33 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: gilbert, az
Posts: 868
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BTW....Its lower than that now.
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Get ur bitchass in the kitchen and cook me some pie! http://www.myspace.com/erock805 http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/erock805 Always looking for Econoline parts, spindles, steering boxes other.... |
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#34 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 287
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Here's a thought, but since I've never been underneath one of these, I might be talking completely out of my ass...
What's preventing a person from doing a body drop on one of these? It seems like it would be the easiest way to drop one and PLUS, you would still maintain the original steering geometery, wheelwell clearance, etc. It just seems like going through the trouble of completely redoing the suspension/undercarrage would be a lot more work than is neccessary just to lower one of these. But if it were truly that simple, I'm sure this would be the most obvious way to lower one. Someone who knows better than me, please feel free to school me.
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God bless America... Except Idaho Fuck Idaho |
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#35 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 2,732
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Quote:
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Posts: 1,360
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What about a frame donor?? Lots of work, but something like a Safari van frame might work?? Steering should be in the right place, and setting back the engine shouldn't be a big deal. Not sure about the track width either but this might be an option.
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#37 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Southside of Indy
Posts: 151
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I found this. Dont know if it helps. I do know there was lots if work involved.
http://www.shadoworksart.com/doorway.htm Click on "The Artist" and then click "here" on his biggest project yet, it's toward the top, before the ink pics.
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Need: 53 & 54 Chev Taillights |
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#38 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Canton,Oh
Posts: 1,382
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Cory, Yes this van will be bad ass. Later,Bill
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FOR SALE 37 Ford pickup http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=505507 Buick switch pitch trans $250 |
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#39 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: California
Posts: 74
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http://www.showtrux.com/showvans/ear...adowbefore.htmShadows Econo is sweet. I do believe it's finished. Painted anyways.
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#40 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: co. springs
Posts: 3,696
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naturally, i ended up lowering mine.
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suck squeeze bang blow. |
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