Tech: How to drop a tie rod.

[MattStrube]

Build a Jig.
Been busy lately, but I found some time. I made up a nice little jig (about $40 of steel...I splurged on the round pieces and got them in solid 2.5" form) Took me about an hour and a half of measuring and remeasuring, making sure that everything was spot on to make this afternoon, after a fun filled morning of cutting grass and spreading mulch.

I guesstimated that I would lose about 3" of length for each side. I was wrong, I only lost 7/8" on the one side. [I dropped it 1.75" on the side you see, and will do the other side later in the week.] It started about .5" too long too; because of the dropped axle, the stock tie rod was 43 7/8".

I'm thinking about using this little adjustor to put in the middle for easy adjustment (see link below...thanks Mike B.), but I'm not quite sure. Most likely I'll rosset weld a center section in there to make it the length that I need. [Another way to do this would be to buy a long piece of tubing from lefthander chassis, but I chose to use an original tie rod.] To be continued for later in the week. Anyone in Austin, stop on by, bring some beer, and we can drop your tie rod too, I'm always outside working on something.



The adjustor I might get
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6844...Adjusters.html

[MattStrube]

For Tech Week, I was a day early.

[qzjrd5]

That is a nice jig/fixture. I need to work on my patience and planning so I can do things nice like that!

Mike

[MattStrube]

I should also note a bit about how I made the second bend, as that's important. I marked where 1.75" with a parallel line above the tie rod (it's hidden now, but the tie rod follows it perfectly) Then I marked the width of the tie rod, and another mark was placed where the arc of the second bend would be. I think I did more staring/mental masterbating than anything, and that's important. I have learned to think first, and not cut first, that's how you get cool shit.

I think about this whenever I consider half-ass work as an end. "For every perfect piece, there are three in the trash" Sam Strube Thanks Bro.

[raaf]

bringing this up from the depths.

cool!

[MattStrube]

I'm in boston all week, but ill post finished pictures this weekend or early next week. Matt

[MattStrube]

An update. This is where it all comes together. First thing's first, make sure the wheels are pointing down the runway. Before I got started, the other day, I used the torch to make sure that the top and bottom were parallel and perfectly flat. A healthy hour or so of work. What we're working with; Two ends previously bent using Jig shown earlier, 9/16" round stock, and 2 3/4" piece cut from donor tie rod, not shown.



1. I made sure the front of the tires were about 1/8" closer than the rear +- an inch.
2. I then measured the distance that the tierod needed to be; 44.5" + 1.25" for each end, for a total of 47".

3. I mocked up the tie rod with the 9/16" of round stock to hold it together and double check my eye to eye measurement on the spindles...spot on 2 3/4" same as my first measurement, move to next step.


4. Drill 4 holes on each end for the plug welds; these are about 1/2" holes.

5. Weld one side to the round stock, and remeasure.

6. measure again, and weld on the other side.

7. Will grind smooth tomorrow so I don't wake the neighbors.


Maybe a little fine tuning to ensure that it's all parallel and such.

[ss34coupe]

damn nice work.

[burger]

looks pretty

[Rex Schimmer]

Mine.

Rex

[Noland]

that looks good as gold

[Rusty]

Very nicely done!!

[MattStrube]

Rex, yours is built like a brick shit house. I don't think it needs to be that strong.

[Flat Ernie]

Yes, but there's no kill like overkill!

[pasadenahotrod]

We had to bend the original Ford tie rod on each end for clearance on the Track Car. When the car hit the road we found the tierod was actually fluttering on the ends and so constructed a crude but effective 3/8" square rod reinforcement from the bend to bend across the rod with triangulated internal braces. Worked like a champ.
Probably could have done a pair of nice curvy drilled gussets that would have done the job but that night we had the rod and not the plate.
Great job.

[LIMEY]

You should really wear safety boots in the workshop! ;-)

Kev.