Simple Tech for crimp connectors.

This is my first tech article so it will be a simple and basic one but one I think everyone can relate to.

Okay there are a few sick individuals like myself who enjoy wiring… But on the whole most people seem to not like it too much.
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One of the big problems with wiring on old cars is that it is often poorly done and mangled by the dreaded previous owner and all it takes is one bad connection to kill most old cars.
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The other annoyance I have personally is that the standard crimp connectors available to most of us are not the most aesthetic or indeed traditional looking.
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Here is what I do on connections that I want too look somewhat “factory” or at least not f’in ugly!
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Take the connector that you want to use. Carefully slice the insulation lengthwise. Sometimes I’ve even used the edge of the bench grinder wheel to shave it thinner as sometimes that insulation is rather tough and that way an Exacto knife and your thumb aren’t good buddies!
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Once the insulation is off then get the wire you need to connector-ize and strip and “tin” it with solder.
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Now before putting on the connector slip on the appropriate heat shrink tube.
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Heat the connector and allow the solder to “flow” into the tube.
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Slide the shrink tube and heat with a heat gun or torch but careful not to burn the tube and wire.
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Done! Not quite factory but a lot less intrusive than the standard crimp with the added benefit of having very good electrical conductivity without allowing water, foreign matter and corrosion to get into the crimp tube.

Happy Wiring!

 

I know two people that do it that way, you and me. I've never had a failure. A good tech to share with folks.

 

I have done it that way for years. (was in the automotive wiring business)

Only difference is; I use(d) NON-INSULATED terminal ends.
(saves the insulation removal step)

If your going to do a lot of wiring, take a look at AMP
(Aircraft Marine Products) terminal ends.
(available at most industrial electrical/electronic supply outlets)
They manufacture a superior grade of electrical terminal ends.

 

Ditto on the 'done it that way' for years.

 

Make that three

 

Nice to see more than just me doing it that way,a friend crimpped on some connectors on his gike and a few weeks later had to go through all the wiring to find the problem 'cause it didn't solder it,couple more seconds up front saves a lot of agravation later.

 

I roll this way too. Works fantastic.

 

Ditto - been doing it that way for years - with small differences. To remove the insulation from the terminals I always just stuck my soldering iron on them - once warmed up they come right off.

I also like to put the "hump" of the crimper on the seem of the terminal. I've been told that this is the "wrong" way to do it, but it's yet to fail me.

I too solder my connections - again - I've been told that this is bad for vibration prone areas - claim being it will help cause a failure - again _ I still solder mine - yet to experience a failure.

 

In college that's the only way we did it at the stereo shop... we didn't have any butt connectors unless they came with a stereo or something, then we'd throw them away!

 

might add the step of crimping the connector before soldering, it doesn't hurt to have both a strong mechanical connection (from crimping) and a good electrical connection (from soldering). Solder itself is not very strong.

 

All good points. I often do what Hemi Rambler mentioned and curl the crease down into the wire ( similar to a DB crimp) using a non-insulated style crimper. True, solder is not meant to be a mechanical connection per se. There are many aspects to wiring as you well know, one is not to have the wire strained to the point of breaking and leaving enough slack "dressed" in to allow for needed movement. Topics for another post for sure. I just have issues with the basic crimp connector many use and its shortfalls in "hostile" conditions.

 

A couple things I could add to that is to chip off any rosin core flux that might spill out onto the connection area of the connector (the part that goes under the screw head). The flux is clear and hard to see sometimes. It doesn't conduct electricity. You can either scrape it off with a pocket knife, or use acetone to dissolve it (but acetone is highly flammable).

Also, if you need to keep it really water tight, they sell heat shrink tubing that has a soft inner core that melts when you heat it up to shrink it. It makes really nice waterproof connections to keep the exposed strands of wire protected from moisture.

I agree that you should crimp the wires first before soldering, because you can't count on solder to have much strength.

 

you can also get very good results by doing what i think is called a barrell splice on the wire ,soldering and then shrink tubing over the splice.doing it this way leaves almost no indication of a spliced wire other than the shrink sleeve over the splice.

 

Great post. Thank you.

 

Good tip

I keep aerosol contact cleaner nearby. Works great for removing excess flux, and also cools freshly soldered connectors to a comfortable temp.

 

The smoky drippy rosin works just like exlax, don't breathe fumes.

 

I don't think there is a surer way to connect and it does look traditional to me. Rags

 

cool.....this does look pretty good.....i was doing some wiring yesterday and i didn't use butt connectors because they are so ugly......

thanks for the idea!

 

I left out the part about "crimping" the terminal end - bare - on the tinned wire; not so much for mechanical strength, but to keep the terminal in position on the wire during the soldering step.
(especially when the wire is hanging down!)

As far as which side to put the "hump" of the crimper on; the AMP terminal ends I use, have a "welded barrel" - no seam - so it doesn't mater.
(and once the terminal is soldered; it will never know the difference!)

The trick is to ONLY solder enough for the solder to "peek" out the wire side of the terminal end.

As far as;
"soldered connections being BAD for vibration prone areas - and possibly cause failure"
Well, I have been doing automotive wiring for OVER 40 years, and I have NEVER had a failure yet! (soldering connections)
I have never found out where this "myth" started.

My best test is our Bonneville racer - B/STR - that has run OVER 200 MPH - and believe me THERE is VIBRATION!
And not one connection has failed in five years!!

 

Me too on the shrink wrap bit.

I like to use Burndy Hy-Lug connectors.
They're tinned to start with, solid on the end where the wire goes in and takes a nice crimp.

The Burndy's are mechanically stronger than typical parts store terminals.
Combine them with shrink wrap and you have a nice connector.

You can buy bulk length shrink wrap - 36" long - in several colors and sizes which are a help when wiring a car.

On some connections where there will be vibration I use a little longer piece of shrink wrap to spread the load.

You can get the long shrink wrap at an industrial type electric supply store.
The Burndy's are available there as well.

 

I'm sure solid wire may be prone to repeated bending and breakage under vibration due to work hardening but most auto apps would be stranded. As far as mechanical strength of solder, I'm sure a plumber might argue with some of our "statements"! Good discussion, It's good to see everyones angle on some of the basic tech.
BTW as for contact cleaner someone mentioned, Regular brake cleaner is essentially the same stuff you just get a bigger bottle for about the same price.

 

And I meant to say, good post.

Wiring seems to get left to the very last and then get rushed....

 

gotta love tech week!

 

I've been doin' it like that for years, most of the wiring I do is on bikes and this way it's a little more vibration/water proof. Good good tech tip though.

 

about 5 months too late.... for this project, but it will come in handy next time. THANKS.

 

hahaha.....are you pointing your finger at me! that's how i feel right now...

so black tape doesn't cut it?

 

My 2 cents, most electronics shops sell solder which has water soluble flux, alot easier to clean up.

Ron

 

I like to use 2:1 polyolefin adhesive-lined heat shrink wrap. It's available from McMaster-Carr in bundles of 6" lengths that are convenient to work with and also fit nicely into my wiring kit.

 

Ron, that reminds me;

ALWAYS use ROSIN CORE solder for soldering electrical connections,
NOT ACID CORE!

The acid core solder will start corrosion in the joint eventually.
(leave it for soldering plumbing)

 

Got a decent sized wiring project coming up. This has been very helpful! Thanks!