I am in the process of gathering the stuff to adapt a later set of the F1 brakes on my ealry Ford axle(37-41) I have a few questions: Is there a difference between the 42 on and 37-41 spindles?? (other than the shape) Also can you remove too much matarial from the 37 style spindles to clear the wheel cylinder? By too much meaning, how important is it to stay away from where the kingpin top seats? I have a set of spindles that have been heavily clearanced by the previous owner and am curious if Id be further ahead to scrap them. As far as brake parts, can I buy a kit with all the hardware and shoes from somwhere?? The local auto chain isnt able to locate the parts I need. Are any other year (later) brake shoes and hardware interchangeable? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for any help.
The differences between round spindles (37-41) & square spindles (42-48) is mainly shape & kingpins. The kingpins are fully interchangeable, but be sure to get bushing sets & kingpins for the right spindles. I prefer the square spindles when doing F100 or F250 brakes as there is no clearancing. Might be able to better assess your spindles with a pic of how much they're clearanced. It takes a good chunk out to clear the F1 wheel cylinders... All of the aftermarket old Ford dealers carry all the parts you need except the inner bearings & seals - do a search on here for the p/n & any local bearing supply house can get 'em for you. The F1/F100 stuff (wheel cyls, shoes, hardware, etc) is about the same up through '64 & self-adjusting up to '72-74-ish. Parts shoudl be available locally...
Hi Dustin, check out Duece Roadsters Tech Post in the tech archive, its a good one. Here a tech article out of a mag that shows what a clearanced round spindle should look like. I also prefer to use the 1942-48 Square back spindle for F1/F100 Brakes, they don't need clearancing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/beatnik/Tech Week/f1brakes1a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/beatnik/Tech Week/f1brakesa.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/beatnik/Tech Week/f1brakes2a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/beatnik/Tech Week/f1brakes3a.jpg Gus
Sorry for the huge pics, I am at work and do not have any editing capabilities. Thanks Pass: Drivers:
yes , they did grind a lot off...but i don't think you will have any problems i'd use your round spindles
The passanger side is fine, the one I am worried about is the drivers. There is some grinding that got into where the kingpin will be. I guess I will have to wait and see if it affects my kingpin at all. One more hought, how do I go about fitting my king pins to the bushing?? Can any machine shop do this?? I dont have the correct hone. Thanks
i don't think you will have a problem on the drivers side,,,they didn't get into where the bushing is pressed in fitting the king pins requires the correct tools. the bushing need to be of the correct size AND must be inline with each other i use a Bluepoint adjustable kingpin reamer my father bought new in 1929. lacking that , any good automotive machine shop should be able to do it for you at a reasonable cost..usually they will use a connecting rod wrist pin hone
if you are planning on heating and bending your steering arms , do that BEFORE you install the bushings , the heat will cook them if you are using bolt on steering arms , then it won't matter
Here is the same article ... all in one place on the web ... http://www.flatheadv8.org/f1brakes1.htm I believe your spindles will be OK ... but that's why I always use 41 to 48 spindles with the 53 to 56 F-100 backing plates. They require no grinding and LOOK better also. Again, as usual ... 36-3window is correct ... any decent automotive machine shop will have a piston pin hone machine and can get a super fit on the king pins and bushings. I have the old manual reemer like he shows but I prefer to use the piston pin hone machine. My buddy owns the machine shop and I use his machine .
Thanks for all the replies. As for steering arms I will probably use the bolt on dropped style. As far as using a set of the square backed spindles, unless I find a set that are already off the axle, I will just use these 37-41. I have become very attached to them due to all the work I put into "unfreezing" the kingpins to get them off the axle....
Those are fine - new bushings & kingpins will fit - the grinding isn't that severe. Run 'em. Bendix-style, self-energizing brakes...
Thanks all, I thought of one more question. Were all F1 hubs the same bolt pattern? Is it 5x5.5? I just want to make sure I get the correct rims. Thanks
I have gotten my spindles all clearanced for the wheel cylinders...so its on to assembling the brakes. I called about 8 different local auto places and none of them have been able to find a hardware/spring kit for the front brakes. I gave them 56 F100 truck for the vehicle, can I give them any other vehicle to achieve the same thing? I know the later stuff will be self-adjusting and I can go that route if need be. Does anyone know of a part number for any of this??? Thanks
I don't think self-adjusting appeared until '64 or so. So if you don't want self-adjusting, try 63 F100...or thereabouts.
Ok as of now, the only place that can come up with a spring kit is Carquest and its for a 67' F1 which would be self adjusting.
I did see a set on MAC's but I was hoping to be able to get all tha parts locally. Nobody has ever ordered these through a local parts chain??
I've always had good luck with NAPA for oddball parts...have you tried there? I walked into a small NAPA & walked out with a belt for my '40 Ford, a 6V coil, & a 6V headlight!
I've used a web site for F 100 parts www.f100.com --the stuff isn't the cheapest, but the guys got everything. When I put F 100 brakes on my 29 roadster,I did the first clearancing with a grinder,then filed it smooth---looks factory-done now I also used Buick drums----but as "covers" for the F100 drums--the Buick drum were out-of-spec so it worked out perfect--not much work to do the job either.
That was the first place I tried and no luck. I may go back and try to see if they can get something for a later year.
Those brakes look great! What did you do with your hubs. I see there are some extra holes on the inside of the wheel studs pattern.
1965 Ford passenger cars had a 11' drum ... the same as a F-100 ... the springs and hardware do not know nor care that they are on a F-100 backing plate instead of a passenger car backing plate ... You can use the self adjuster springs on the top and just put the blue spring across the bottom ... without the self adjuster lever and wire
Those brakes look great! What did you do with your hubs. I see there are some extra holes on the inside of the wheel studs pattern. No work done to the hubs--just put longer studs in.Not sure about the drums--they came that way.I used a 1/4 wheel spacer between the F 100 drum and the Buick drum and a 1/2 spacer between the Buick drum and the wheel--F 100 wheels,by the way.I just turned down the inner lip of the Buick drum to clear the Ford backing plate--did it on a regular drum lathe--did the whole thing in about 2 hours.
Thanks!! I will check at Napa for a 65' Passenger car. Should I tell them a certain model?? What about shoes, should I get the shoes for a 65 car as well or are they the same as well?
Do you know if the '65 drum would work with the F100 hardware? Is it a 4.5" bolt pattern? My F100 hubs are drilled out for the 4.5" bolt pattern, so it would be nice to get drums that don't need to be drilled.
The 65 Ford car drums have a smaller hole ... where the hub comes thru. Might work if you opened the center up ... I have NOT done it that way so you are on your own ...
Hey! Dont hijack my post!! haha. I'll make it easy on you and trade you my 5x5.5 hubs for your 5x4.5 hubs...please
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