The Rolf Coupe build

[Rolf]

This is a bit of a milestone...I have a "roller" !!

I am using ASC rails, Model A front/rear cross members, 4 inch drop "heavy" '32 C.E. axle up front, hung in '48 Ford 'bones.



Early 60's Ford Truck nine inch rear axle, centered pumkin. I was going to hang this one on '36 radious rods, but with a 425 Nailhead and a 4 speed, I like it to be bullet-proof, so I opted for ladder bars instead:



The model A rear spring seems a bit "soft", it sits too low in the rear. It is actually propped up about and inch and a half in the pictures. I guess I have to re-arc it?

The car should drop about four inches in the front, with motor and a few leafs removed. I am thinking the radiator shell needs to drop about two inches...





The goal today was to locate the body position on the frame, based on the rear tires...This looks good.



Firestone 7:50 in rear, 6:00 in the front

Next: "channel" the front cowl, to loose the A on 32 rail gap syndrome...then, motor...

This is fun!

[Rolf]

tokyo: Got the body locally, from an old fart in Port Angeles, he had been collecting parts for a stock restoration for it for 30 years but never finished. He would probably kill me if he know I was going to build a hot rod! Buick nailhead with many (3?) maybe (6?) carbs is the answer and stick shift.

Here is an option: All I need is SIX 97's ! Got any?



It an old Crower U-Fab piece.

dug: Thanks, I think I got it figured out, I will "channel" the bottom cowl supports, that would drop the cowl past the frame and closing the gap. Will take some pix and share...Can't believe I am catching this much shit for cleaning my shop once in a while.

mylow: I don't need to Z the rear, I like it kinda high, old timey style...chop...hell yes, I loose some sleep over how much, but at least 4 inches is my thinking. I keep looking at the Lance coupe, the green one with Hemi, I think it had a five inch chop. Looks fabulous! If I am close to fire it next spring, I may drive it un-chopped, just to shake it out, but the inevitable will happen.

MAIKI : I like it !

[Rolf]

Damn, this stuff takes time ! Anyway, here is a report for those who cares:

With a nice body like this, I figured I may not even need the welder...



Yeah, right...



Turns out that the "old guy" used fiberglass tape on the inside lower panels, and then used filler on the outside.




He also "screwed" the rear inner fenders to the body using duct tape as a "gasket". I guess that may have been OK if one had used fenders.



Also, he had covered the weak rear subrails with some 1/8 thick sheet metal.




So out it goes, all of it! Trust me: I see what some folks starts with, this is nothing, so I guess I am still lucky!



I need new sub-rails anyway, to follow the sexy '32 frame kick up. I shaped metal to follow the frame, then I added 1 X 2 square tubing for strength.





It was then bolted to the frame and welded up.



Sub-rails to go...the outer lip will also serve as support for the inner fender.



"Sub-rail connectors"





Modified A inner fenders...



With the rear lower panel in place, and the trunk opening as square as I can get it, it is tacked together at this point.

If you wonder about those goofy dollies: I live in yuppie neighborhood, so I so don't have five buddies coming over and helping me lifting the body on/off the frame, and they work great, for several reasons:

1. They are built at ride height, and the car sits on it's own suspension, so when I add motor etc I can keep an eye on the rake, without having those purdy (and expensive) Firestone whitewalls in the shop while welding and grinding.

2. You can kick the car around in the shop easy.

3. I jack up the body, stick a 2X4 under it, and roll out the frame from underneath it to work on it.

I was hoping I would be in to mounting the engine, figuring out linkages, steering etc, but this stuff has to be done first...one day at a time...

[Rolf]

Moving slowly, work is really interfering with my Hot Rod build, but here are the developments so far:

First: The disclaimer: I am just doing this as I se it, I am sure there are a million ways to do this, but maybe it can be helpful to some:




To pinch or not to pinch...This is what it looked like on my 31 on 32 rails...



...after 3/4 inch pinch (in a jig) on each side. Looks more like it.



Then the second '31 on '32 dilemma...The GAP !



Now when the rails are inside the outer cowl skin, I decided to "channel" the car...I could have just whacked the support on the bottom, making a flat surface to meet the frame, but I kinda liked the bottom radius on the stock piece. I cut out the cowl support...




...lowered the body to my liking and re-installed the cowl support.



This way it sort of looks like Henry did it or something.



Now the body sits slightly down over the frame, sort of '32-isch I guess, but not too deep to disturb that purdy reveal.



Then off with the body (again!) First I figured out where the motor will end up. I am using the stock belt driven Buick fan. The Nailhead is one long ass motor! Even with the front A cross member forward about 1.5 inch, I will still carve in to the firewall.



Then motor mount pads...



I am using Ford flathead type rubber bushings. Obviously I have only spot welded the mount, but you get the idea...




Then I mocked up the location for the pedal, and the Swedish shifter! Please note 4 X 4 wood for seat "simulator" !



Rear cross member...



Now I am building a floor grid.



Humptie-Dumtie... I was going to get one of those Brookville sedan humps, but I keep forgetting to order one, so I will make one. Next, floor sheet metal!

I was hoping to have the steering in by now, but the A-hole that I sent my money to five weeks ago still has my money, and I don't have a steering box! Karma will get him!

Back to the shop!

[Rolf]

bradberry, this may answer you question:



As it sits here, the fan will run in the rear valley in the cross member. As far as the firewall goes, I will try to make a nice bulge around the distributor and valve covers. I would like it to look like it follows the profile of the motor.

I don't think it's advisable to move the cross member more forward, since the frame horns starts to curve down quite a bit. Also, I need to maintain the caster.

Here is an inside view, plenty of room. I am not using the rear shelf, so I will have plenty of leg room. I am thinking a 4 inch chop or so at this point.



Un-finished National? How about finished Nationals?

I am a motorcycle rider, so it depends on the weather this spring/summer. Nice weather = riding, Bad weather = shop time!

I would love to have it running even in rattle can primer this summer, but who knows...

[Rolf]

Wow guys, you resurrected this old post...

I guess I owe you an up-date:

I am an avid motorcycle rider, so I must admit, not much is going on in the shop during the summer. Soon, the N.W. rain will start, and the Harley will be put aside...

I hate to say it, but I am almost wishing for rain, so I can dig in to the coupe.

Plus!! I became a US Citizen last week! Look at me !



Animal, you are right, I will check clearances around the firewall, etc...good point!

Some progress have been made though:




I finished the floor. Flat as a pancake...kinda nice, when installing seat etc...



An evil seat was built so I can figure out the ergonomics when I wack the lid:



I just got 13 gal tank from Tanks Inc. Not traditional, but functional...



I like the idea of self canceling blinkers, so I am using a 57 Ford Truck column. I "covered" it with 2" tubing, to hide the wiring and fit the model A column drop.





Wishbones are in place...



I like the way the '32 frame just disappears up under the body:



I opted for a Vega steering, since the Nailhead starter is on the left side, I just have a few adjustments to make, and then it is : Chop chop !!

There you have it, boys. Can't wait for some rain!

[Rolf]

I must say I haven't been HAMBing much lately, the summer has been full of activities to do outdoors, not in front of a computer, but I enjoy short visits just to stay in tune with you guys...

Ryan: Thanks for all the work you do... And thanks to the Society for helping him...some great folks on this site...

Well, the fall (with lots of rain) came to Washington state, and you know what that means: Back in the shop !!



I like the protruding model A firewall, but with the long nailhead, I had to make some room. Instead of carving a big hole, I tried to follow the outlines of the motor somewhat, making it look like it belongs there...






Also, I didn't like the aftermarket column drops, so I made one using the lower part of the model A drop.





I was going to move on with chopping the lid, but I got my radiator, so I could finally hang the grille. It is 2 inch lower than the stock '32. Once that was done, I just had to make the head light/shock mount to get the big picture. They are just standard issue F-1 mounts, with the stud moved lower, and the top part replaced with a model A "cup"

I have restored some fifties and sixties cars, but this my first hot rod. This shit is FUN !

I don't know about you guys, but I am f---ing excited. Did I say I was excited??!

To see your very own hot rod starting to take shape, all with parts you have collected, swapped, begged and bought etc...







Yeah, yeah, the 'ol standby Pontiac light...but they look great.




Steering wheel is 1957 Ford, and the gauges will be 1950 DeSoto.

I just need to tack my visor and make sure the windshield frame fits well, then it should be time to whack the lid.

I'm thinking 4 inches...

[Rolf]

After seeing Ryan's photo chop, I think that answered our question.

I was tempted to leave it un-chopped even, but it does take on a mean "husky" look with a chop. I actually drilled the visor knowing I would need to see through it at the stop light!

I have spent considerable time on the ergonomics based on a 4 inch wack, I am 6 foot, so everything from pedal distance to seat height is important.

Bobbed fenders: Hell yes, love that "east-coast look". I picked up a 36 Ford spare cover at the swap for that very reason.

Drive line: This is going to be a driver, so I am using a Borg Warner 4 speed, installed on a Buick OEM bell housing. Rear end is a Ford 9 inch posi with Moser axles hung in P&J ladder bars and a Model A spring. Should be bullet proof, I hope !

Finned covers: Well, I like the vintage look of chromed stock covers on the nailhead. That, and the matching spark plug covers, and at least a trio of 97's should look nice.



These are mid fifties cover, so they don't have any PVC holes etc. I will run the crank case ventilation from the valley cover instead.

Back to the shop !

[Rolf]

Well, it's that time:



With the body braced, and the visor is welded to the body, the the surgeon is ready:





Sorry for the fuzzy pix, I think the photographer was a little excited!

What do they say? Anyone can restore a car, but it takes a real man to cut one up ??

73 year old vintage tin being butchered here...



Top is loose. She has lost her virginity !



The mandatory "lifting-off-the-top-for-the-first-time-picture". coupeHead came over and helped out. Thanks Keith !



Roadster?



Top is back on, loose but, hey, that looks cool! Four inches gone for ever



While I hade the top of, I buzzed the visor in areas that was hard to get to before.



I worried mostly about getting the door opening to line up, then I just pie cut the post.

I decided to keep the vertical trim piece on the roof, after all, it's a hot rod, not some smooth street rod.
I had the same issue orcas tow had: The C-pillar tend to get sucked in. Later, with some violence, I brought it out as much as I dared without stressing the rest of the roof.



I just tacked the doors, and hung them on the car to make sure the hinge distances were correct. With the four inch hair cut, the distance between the hinges are just about even, looks great.



All buttoned up...Extra thanks to marshall for teaching me some hammer welding techniques. Using two cocktail napkins in a bar he showed me how (and the reason for) hammer welding. A skim coat of filler should do it here...



Windshield frame butchered and test installed.



I just repositioned the stud, and moved the Windshield bracket on the frame lower.




With the chopped garnish moulding in place, it hides the weld on the post.




Gauges:

Trying to avoid the "normal" Stewart Warner repop gauges, I spent a lot of time looking at dash boards. This is the donor cluster, from a 1950 DeSoto. The gauges are sort of art deco and contains everything you need.

The bad news: They mount from behind



Of course they are not any standard size, so I had to choose the closest hole saw, and then grind and file the hole up to desired size. Puh !



But I think it paid off. I was worried that the speedo would be too big, but I think it looks good. I welded studs to the back of the dash, obviously.



Oil and temp are of course mechanical, so they should hook up OK.
Also, turns out that Autometer is using the same resistance as DeSoto on the fuel gauge, so I can get an after market sending unit that will work perfect with this gauge.



Now I am struggling with were to put the light and ignition switch. I kinda like to keep the dash clean, but it's also the cockpit in the hot rod, right?



Anyway, I have to think about the switches for a while...



Next: Weed burners for the nailhead...back to the shop!

[Rolf]

I am getting close to put some paint on the nailhead engine, and I was convinced all along that I would choose gloss black, but as I hung a few prepped parts on it in DP-90 (flat black) I thought that may look cool with some chrome here and there.





You got some pix of engines in black or flat black to show me??



.

[Rolf]

As I have been building the Model A Coupe, I am working on an article for my web site of the build. This is still a work in progress, (since the damn car isn't finished yet!) and I have a lot of copy to add, but since it's tech week, and maybe some pictures can be helpful to other HAMBers, here it is.


The big ass disclaimer: I am not an authority on this, this is just how I am doing it.

Feel free to PM or e-mail me any grammar or spelling errors.



What I started with...





Frame and suspension
Including shocks and head light mounts, and motor mounts.





Body and sub-rails
Including floor, trunk with gutters, and tank.

Body Part two

Firewall




To pinch or not to...
It is not necessary to pinch a 1932 frame to accept a '30-'31 body, but I think one should, and here is why...





Chop


Engine and Transmission
Carburetion options and accessories.


Wheels and Brakes
Including pedal assembly.




Exhaust





Dashboard and Interior
Gauges and steering column.


Various Mock up stages

Or go to the start page:
http://www.classicroad.com/modelA

Cheers!

[Rolf]

Originally Posted by Digger_Dave

Rolf, I notice you created a "shop tool" that looks trick!

Those castor equiped wheel stands, (not exactly sure what to call them!) look like they allow some clearance while working on the frame. (or other things that the wheels and tires would get in the way of)

"Eye balling" the heights (front and rear) it looks like you used the "wheel/tire" installed heights so they would keep the car at ride height?

If you have a chance, how about a quick "tech" on how you built them?
(I'm especially curious how you drilled the bolt pattern for the hub bolts)
I have a box of heavy duty castors just "begging" to be "rolled on!!

The name is "Rolf-o-Matic Roll-a-ways"

Yes, I built them to ride height, that way I can keep an eye on the stance/rake. They are just crudely made of angle iron and square tubing. This picture shows them well.



I just measured the distance between two holes, hung them on the axle with the car at ride height and welded them to the lower frame.

I am by myself in the shop (sooob!) so I use the engine hoist to lift the body, so the less height I have to lift it, less chance of any misshap. I welded a hook in the floor in the body, and when the body is in the air, I can just push the frame in under it. Kinda safer than trying to swing the body around too much.

Also, it keep the expensive Firestones out of the shop dirt.

[Rolf]

Originally Posted by myke

Excellent info.


I have a 30 A that I am also setting on a 32 frame with a deuce grill. I was going to do the 3/4" channel (the idea I got from you) but it looks as if you had to drop the grill alot. Could you run a full hood now if you wanted too? I want to be able to use my full hood sometimes.

Myke, you may find that you have to make a custom hood, unless you can get exactly them same distance as a stock hood.

In my case, I moved the front crossmember about 1 1/2 forward to the stock '32 position because of the long ass motor, so I would certainly have to make a custom hood.

I dropped the grille 2 inches, that makes the imaginary hood line look good with the A body on the '32 rails. Otherwise it would go "up-hill"

[Rolf]

After a ride in Just Dug's 32 coupe this weekend, with virtually an identical chassis as mine, I am motivated as hell.
That thing rode great !

I was back in the shop this weekend and thrashed away...

We are moving, so I have another incentive to get it ready as a roller, I will have to continue at the new place. It will stop the progress for several weeks thought

Anyway...




Well, here we are, a rolling chassis. I am just stoked !




I had to bring it out in natural light to see it all. The Hurst shifter will be replaced with a old-timey swan thing, although the muscle car guy in me is voting for the short throw stick !




It is starting to look cool with a little bling-bling. I will add some more chrome nut covers as well.

[Rolf]

More...






I painted the lower part of the frame black, so it will not be so visible from the rear.





I painted my "stealth" dump tubes black as well, so they would not show too much. The continuing pipes are also coated with ceramic coating to keep the inside of the car as cool as possible.

It kills me not to be able to throw the body on just to get a look , but I have to wait until after the move...

[Rolf]

Originally Posted by AHotRod

Rolf, is the colour on your chassis and body Red-Oxide-Primer or is it ..... ?
The chassis , engine and wheel / tire combination is dead-nuts-on ... Congradulations.

The color is a "secret" mix.

I actually went to home depot and picked a "primer-looking" color from the sample swatch bin. I picked one that was a bit more red than DP red oxide primer for more pop.

Then we had the autopaint store match the color, and then it's covered with flex-n-flat.

This way it's sealed and UV safe.

This was Loogy's idea, BTW.

[Rolf]

We moved, so I have to work in this old garage for now, and it's not really set up for this, but I will get by. Some people have it a lot worse than this, so I will not complain. Plans are to build a nice shop on this new property.

Well, the frame is ready for a body, so let's get to work.


Since I don't have any friends, I have to to this solo!

Lift the rear...



Step Two: Make the cowl defy gravity...



Push frame in to place...



Push more...



Tada ! Shit, I think I got myself a hot rod !

(Damn garage lights make the car look orange ! )





Bringing it out in day light is a better way to get a good look, and that I did. I probably spend 1/2 hour just walking around it,
looking at different angles. That's how sick I am !




The body was hung up on the front bolts in this picture, it settled another quarter inch closing the gap under the door.





Nice ass, eh??
The plate is actually an un-restored original.





With the stealth dump tubes painted black, they don't show that much.




I have lugged those red sparkplug wires with me for 25 years, since I came from Sweden. They are for midsixties Volvos, and they will finally be put to work.


Still a long way to go: Plumbing for fuel, electrical, steering, gauges, grille shell etc, but very very motivating !!

[Rolf]

Jeem: Woodinville smells good, but they are putting in the new Brightwater sewage plant north of us, and even though they promise a "no-smell" plant, that's was one of the reasons we moved to this new location further south, but still in Woodinville.
Also, it's FLAT here, lived on a steep hill before. NEVER again.

urkillin: Go here: http://www.classicroad.com/modelA

There is a whole section on the firewall. Just round tubing and lots of grinding !

[Rolf]

I don't know why I do this, but the crude looking elbow was just that: crude. So I radioused the edges, and polished the bejesus out of it, and the same goes for the fittings.





I was just going to run a fuel hose down the firewall, but it didn't look right. So I got this 3/8 stainless line and...yes, you guessed it: I polished the bejesus out of it. Looks classier than a fuel line flopping in the wind !





These stainless hose clamp are pretty cool, but they look even better polished. So I did...you know, polished the bejeses outta them !






With progressive linkage in place, and sexy red fuel lines.





After cutting the sender and the pick up tube to the right length, the tank is ready for installation.
It is painted in hammer paint. Love that stuff, forgiving as hell!





Fuel line, vent line and sending unit wiring is done. I tested the sending unit with the DeSoto fuel gauge before I installed this sender, and it works great.

For the positive lead, I am using welding cable. They are less money that a similar gauge at the auto parts store, and the insulation is of much higher quality. (Special thanks to local hot rodder Mark for that tip)

The black sheets under the tank are OEM style sound deadening material.




Black block off plates "simulates" open exhaust...? What the hell do I know...




I built this "subdash" becuase I didn't want to clutter up the dash. Swithces are late fifties Buick.




Once painted to match, it looks OK...




Some wiring left in the back, but ready to go in the car.

There you have it...back to the shop.

[Rolf]

Thanks for positive feedback, it kicks me in the ass to keep pluggin'

The clamps came from Vaphead, he's a HAMBer.
Squablow: Maybe I didn't call it by it's right name, I think the brand is Hammerite Paint, it makes it look like it hammered finish, like some machines etc. Cool stuff.

Switches: Well, I lied, I just checked, they are from a '61 Buick, and it has the starter function in the key. Nice detective work, fellas...

hotrodA: The gauges are from a 1950 DeSoto cluster.
Yes, I fabbed the cover.

The car looks like this at this point.



You can see the whole misery here if you like:
http://www.classicroad.com/modelA