Technical BRAKES, Buick drums on Chevy backing plates?

Can you mount Buick drums on big Chevy backing plates, etc. I have the entire brake assembly from my 64 Impala (I rebuilt them before I got rid of the car) and was wondering if I can use them drums?

Jay

 

Sorry, The Chevy is 11 in and the Buick is 12 in. Some of the mid 70's GM station wagons had 12 in in the back. Might try that.

 

Bummer. Thanks though!

Jay

 

I used 59 buick backing plates and drums on the early ford spnidles. A lot of work but sure nice with 12 inch barakes. Looks great. U need spacers and some machine work to get the spindle to mount to the backing plate. Some of the guys on here have the templale design for the adapters I do not have a scaner working so I cant post for you. Pretty straight forward to do. John

 

Yes, I've seen those spacers. They are purdy. I just had these brakes lying around and wondered if I could use em. Just rebuilt everything.

Jay

 

FWIW I modified 48 backing plates to accept the 71-76 GM big wagon rear brakes. Got self energizers and self adjusters and great parts availability.

 

Andy, can you give us an idea of what was involved in the conversion to self energising??
Thanks,
Mart.

 

I had to remove all the pins and stuff at the bottom of the backing plate along with the adjusting cams. I welded a plate to mount the wheel cyl and added another plate to mount the anchor pin. If I did it again I would use front wheel cyls. and anchor pins. The anchor pin would mount the wheel cyl and would be simpler. Danny Graham copied this and likes it.

 

Andy do you pics of conversion, I mean pics of backing plate witout drum installed?

 

I'll have to pull a wheel. Nothing really to see. Stock GM everything and some flat stock welded at the top. Will try to get a pic later today.

 

Thanks Andy the reason I asked is cause I just bought all the set up to install Hubs,backing plate and buick drums. I wanna go with self adjusters

 

Thanks for that info, Andy. Nice work, btw.

Jay

 

Here's a pic inside. It's dirty from a lot of use.

 

Thanks again Andy really appreciate you doing that

 

Thanks heaps Andy. Its just what I was looking for. Do you see any difficulties with "trimming" the shoes so as to fit early Ford 12" drums instead of the Buick as seen on your conversion?

now the big question - how easy is it to find that sort of stuff in the US? Its near impossible to find that stuff in Australia!!!

 

You could start with other shoes. I think Chevy pick up is 2". Could be ground down to 1 3/4.I never looked for 1 3/4. The parts are cheap and available here. All my stuff came from Auto Zone.I think all the springs and adjusters were $15 total. Shoes were about $8. I spent a lot more for the cyls. but would use the front type next time. They are $10-20 ea.

 

Andy are you talking Impalas wagons are there alot without disc in front?

 

What my stuff came from is 71-76 Caprice etc. wagons in the REAR. Also some big Caddies in the rear.

 

Andy, Are you still using the early ford hubs like is normally done with a buick drum to 48 ford conversion.Also, What front wheel cylinders would you have used? (early chev front drum, etc.) What you have done looks like the way to go-much cheaper and reliable.Good Job! Dale

 

When I started, I was using the stock 48 brakes and the 48 hubs. Regular set up. I converted the backing plates to this set up.You can't use the 40 style plates. If I do it again I would use front wheel cyls. Don't know which ones.Probably something from a Chevy truck. Need a 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 or so that mounts with the tab.The stock Buick comes to mind.

 

So Andy, would I be right in saying that there are no clearance issues between the Buick drums and the shoes.

Normally when you use 1 3/4" Ford shoes and buick drums you must machine the outer lip of the steel braking suface of the drum for clearance. By using the GM stuff, then to drum would sit 1/4" further out?? , and require a spacer to sit b/w the hub and the drum?
Or am I paranoid, and should I just shut up!

 

When machining the Buick drum for the Ford backing plate, only the aluminum should be removed.If the lip is cut off square, the Ford and other shoes will not be completely covered and the shoe will hang off the end of the drum. I cut the al. down to the iron lining and a little to the back to make sure there is clearance. No spacers should be needed.

 

Hey Andy wanna due a tech on one of my backing plates

 

Andy, mind if I ask another question? Why are the 40 style backing plates not suitable?
Thanks in advance,
Mart.

 

The 48 style plates have pads that the shoes can ride against just like modern backing plates. The 40's didn't have them. I guess pads could be welded up and faced off. The 48 plates had clips that held the shoes against the plates just like modern shoes with hold down springs.

 

Thanks for sharing this.