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MAYDAY MAYDAY Banger Meet in is progress...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Artiki, May 1, 2008.

  1. Dustyp489
    Joined: Feb 1, 2008
    Posts: 223

    Dustyp489
    Member

    ELROD : Talk to you on fordbard about stromberg carbs. Have you or any one else had dealings with Charlie Rice "Vintage Speed " they have 81's rebuilt for 175 plus 190 core . A pair on e-bay just went for a little under 400 each and need rebuilding. also does anyone else besides Red's make the dual outlet header

    Skip
     
  2. AC&R said they were making there own, but no matter who you buy them from check the bend on the tubes at the plate, sometimes they crimp the end by bending them too short and restrict the flow. I have seen them closed to 1 3/16" Red's welded sealing ring eliminates this but it seem quality has dropped in recent months. Sacramento Vintage Ford offers headers as others. A local header shop quoted me $ 8800 to $ 900 for a set and Red's supplied a semi custom set for $185 when Red was still operating the business.
     
  3. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    This is my problem

    any options would be great :(

    I am not sure I can change the timing cover plate - I do not think it is as easy as that.

    I am sure the model B is different to the A

    any help would be great

    I do not want to cut the cross member.

    red cover is model a
     

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  4. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    maybe I could make a model B style mount like the one in the picture - cardboard template. as per pics?

    But the engine is now slightly raised at the front if I do this
     

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  5. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,566

    Elrod
    Member

    That wasn't me on FordBarn. I'm not registered over there, and only occasionally look there.

    Charlie Price takes forever. Be prepared for a wait... A LONG wait.

    I rebuilt my own.
     
  6. The main difference other than motor mount holes is the timing pin hole location is not in the same place. The "A" cover times at TDC and the 32 to 34 times at 19 degrees BTDC, I have a "B" distributor in my "A" engine with an "A" timing cover but I have the harmonic balancer degreed. You can buy timing kits that have a strip marked in degrees and uses the stock pulley. It looks like you have an early 28 frame.. if you don't want to cut the crossmember then use the "A" cover and figure out a way to time. I have an extra NU REX timing kit, PM me if you are interested.
     
  7. Posted this on the sprint car thread and it was buried.

    Maybe it needed some REAL banger guys lookin' at it.:D

    Miller Marine:cool: powered sprinter on the 'bay that got pulled after a day.
    Somebody must have made him an offer he couldn't refuse.

    Check out the pics:
     

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  8. That car is AMAZING!!!
     
  9. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    That lil sprinter is the bee's knees
    What was the price at when it was pulled?
     
  10. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,013

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Whoa.....

    Simon, as Bill said, the only difference 'should' be the timing pin location. The only one I know of anyway...
     
  11. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    Member
    from CZ

    Simon, I have an early ,29 frame (Jan 1st), and it look as it there is a difference in the cross member (was your engine bolted straight to the frame at the front mounting?). Your cross member appears higher, mine uses a yolk bolted to the engine then down into the cross member, would Nervous be able to help? I think you will end up cutting the cross member!
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  12. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    yes bolted straight into the cross member - the truck is from June 1928


    Ok I have found a mod on page 401 of FORD Model A car by Page - I will scan and post.

    The mod suggests to cut the cross member and shows how to fit a standard later model a mount.

    But then the problem is that the standard model A mount does not mount up to the Model B mounting holes.

    I may have to make a plate simular to the model B mount.

    or buy the upgraded front float-a-motor kit and then weld on some tabs to it so it fits the model b mounting holes.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    I hate to cut anything, but I may have to.
     
  14. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    Member
    from CZ


    Same here, just thinking of fitting a B engine - so I'm interested to see how you get on, and what imrprovements to get from it......

    Mind you I've still gotta find one first!
     
  15. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

  16. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK


  17. It had a opening bid of $15K and didn't go anywhere for a day. The guy listed his phone number, so I would imagine somebody made the call. I would think the engine alone would bring that. A real Miller:eek:

    Here's the link with some more pics:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...244973961QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item150244973961&
     
  18. The Sawracer is making some cast timing covers, he may have one with the timing pin hole located for the "B". My suggestion is to use the "A" cover and time the engine by ear. Just advance the spark until the engine kicks back then retard slightly, no big deal! I am assuming you are using the "B" distributor
    http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/index.htm#ignition Go to this site and scroll until you come to the motor mounts section
     
  19. Just fitted the B engine in my Sedan - stock A mount bolted up just fine to the diamond B block?
     
  20. Simon,

    Firstly the chassis is a very early "AR". The front crossmember was taller to allow the engine to bolt directly to it.
    This was found to cause excessive noise and vibration to be transmitted to the chassis. Also I believe with the flex from the chassis fighting the solid structure of the engine the chassis was prone to cracking.
    Ford recognized this and changed over to the sprung front mount early on in production and also updated the dealers through the service bulletins stating that all cars in for a service should be changed to the new style mount, an early factory recall if you will!
    I've a copy of the Ford instructions for this which involved cutting the lip off the crossmember and drilling new holes.

    Moving on...

    Your problem is the front timing cover. I don't know what it is but its not 'A' or 'B'!!

    [​IMG]

    This photo shows a conventional front engine cover, the one that was removed from the car?
    The mounting ears are in the very bottom corners of the mount.

    [​IMG]

    Now compare it to the the cover from the engine your trying to fit to the car.
    The mounting ears are not only a closer together but also alot higher up the cover as well!
    So much difference in position that the left side mount is joined to the cam plunger!
    Also notice the extra support ribbing on the odd ball front cover.

    Simple solution... Fit the 'A' front cover from the engine you just removed. A 2 minute job that doesn't even need the engine removing to do.

    NO cutting, billet front plates, accessory engine mounts needed.

    Something to keep in mind is that if the rest of the car is 'AR' then it will have quite a few differences in parts.
    Chassis, bellhousing, clutch, pedals, brake's are the parts that I can think of off the top of my head that are different from the "normal" A's.
    Could cause alot of head scratching in the future if your not aware of the differences.
     
  21. Yeah, I was gonna say, I have a B going into an A frame, used the stock A mount, bolted right in...
     
  22. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    So what I have is an oddball cover off a small aircraft.

    Anyone in the UK got a model B timing cover?
     
  23. http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/pages/timingcovers.htm This is site, if you can open it, that has photos and explains the changes in the timing covers. The cover with the elongated boss for the timing pin was used as a replacement after 1932 on both "A" and "B". The difference is the location of the hole. It also shows the difference between the early 28 cover and the later "A" cover. It appears that if you choose to use the later "A" or a "B" cover you will have to modify the crossmember.
     
  24. I tried to view all these on Vince's site earlier but the link was down. Emailed him saying the link didn't work as I had a hunch that the odd ball front cover was a '33-'34 one.

    Now its back up.... Weird...

    Looks like Simons cover is a '33-'34.

    If the 'AR' chassis needs a '28 style front cover. What were you using with your 'A' engine Simon?
     
  25. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    The old motor looks like a a6019b which is used on most model A's 1928 1931


    I spoke to Bob and he tells me he has a model b cover I can have.

    From what I have seen I will not need to mod - but just change the timing cover.

    so what I need is a B6019 model B cover.
     
  26. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    I have an old mod for the chassis in an old book I have from 1930

    here are some more pics of the build
     

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  27. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    I have almost no progress to report on the 5 main

    The Drs cut my shoulder open and it's just stopped me from doing much

    I'm now measurin' and looking at it all.

    This is gonna take a year for the arm to work so I got lottsa time to just look and design bits

    Here's a photo for those that forgot what it looks like....... :)
     

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  28. Nice to hear from you, I'm glad you are still in the game!
     
  29. Bluto,

    You need to stop hefting all those 328 heads around:D!

    Hope you're feeling better soon (shoulders aren't fun to mess with- I've got a rotated cuff that sounds like I have gravel in there... feels like it too).

    Take care, Bill

    PS thanks again for the PM!
     
  30. Simon
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 137

    Simon
    Member
    from London, UK

    Well I got the B cover today. I am going to try it tonight... ;)
     

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