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Hot Rods laydown radiator tricks

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by radical flyer, Mar 24, 2014.

  1. radical flyer
    Joined: Jan 9, 2011
    Posts: 25

    radical flyer
    Member

    anyone have any tricks for a low flat mounted radiator on a dragster style frame running a small block chevy.looking for suggestions like do i need a helper pump?or do i need a themastat?thanks wes
     
  2. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    You don't need a helper pump, you need a thermostat same as any motor.

    You will need to arrange a filler at the highest point on the engine, and you will have to arrange the rad and hoses so the air bubbles can work their way up (water runs down hill). Have the rad at a slight slope. Then you will need to fill the system and make sure all the air bubbles work their way out. Have an overflow pipe from the highest point in the system, to a coolant overflow container in the usual fashion.
     
  3. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    It's a "closed" system, so you can mount the radiator any way you want. Most important issue is getting adequate air to flow across the core to carry away the heat, especially when the car is in motion. You might need an air scoop to ensure adequate airflow.
     
  4. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,755

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    An inline filler that fits into the hose is a good way to fill the system, and inexpensive too.
     

  5. panheadguy
    Joined: Jan 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,086

    panheadguy
    Member
    from S.E. WI

    We ran radiators in the rear of our Pro2 race truck with electric fans. As mentioned you need to bleed the air out. This means you will need a petcock wherever the plumbing has a high spot because if not you will have an air bubble. Just having a high filler neck will not do it.
     
  6. A 1/8" (AN-2) line plumbed from the highest point of the radiator to the fill tank (or water neck if you aren't using a tank) will allow any trapped air to constantly "burp' out and won't affect cooling. Very common on road race cars with low radiators.

    Make sure all the lines run uphill to the engine with no "humps" and you shouldn't need a petcock or have to bleed the system at all.
     
  7. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,123

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    Rusty gave you good tips,I'll add a few from 60+ years of playing games like this,if its for very short runs and you do it right it can be OK show car{trailer qween or drag only car,but if its for driving around on the street like a reg rod,then no// same all gose for rear mounted rads even if upright!....:eek:
    Here's a few extra things,anytime ya got a lot of added water hoses and pipes,they will come apart at a bad time with super hot water putting the brun on anything near by,mostly you if ya don't thing much of these notes=Be super careful about all conections an two clames not just one at every point. Air flows far better up then down,so if you going be stupid and lay rad down,be sure air gose up through it not down. On the same note understand if rad is low it will clog up with every bit of crap it can fine of the ground were its moving over....

    Over the years there has been guys doing rear rads and low flat rads so they can get a look that to them I guess is good:eek:,but actuly just looks like hell, to those that know how badly it fails to work well. Funny thing about guys that do dum stuff that don't work well is they try to cover there screw up by saying it's fine and works well for them,that's BS but is how some guys are.;)
     

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