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SBC 350 connecting rods...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Deuces, Sep 1, 2012.

  1. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Anyone ever use the chevy truck "X" rods for their 350 engine build????...
    These rods have an "x" forged into the beam and are beefier than the car style rods...
    Post pictures if ya got'em!!..
    Thanks guys!..;)
     
  2. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    Ive used em - they are the same as pink rods without the extra magnafluxing and inspection thus no pink paint
     
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  3. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Yep!.. Those "pink" rods went through a longer shot peening cycle after the "mag" test proccess..
     
  4. When i was building V8s in the eighties i knew them as Z28 rod also, i think, it was while ago.Good rods,just what a 350 needs with its rod/stroke ratio.
     
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  5. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,022

    outlaw256
    Member

    ive read somewhere and i cant remember where but those pink rods are a joke,they were colored for some assembly reason. again i cant remeber but they arent what we always thought they were.now i gotta spend a few days going thru some old magazines!! im not sayin they are a joke im just saying that they werent what we thought them to be. i can rememeber that much of the damn article anyway.lol
     
  6. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    The "x" rods that I used came from the '70-'71 Chevy/GMC 350 4-bbl pickup engines... Those also had a "steel" crank and a 4-bolt block with nodular iron caps... Not sure on the nickle content in the block... I've seen blocks that had "020" cast into the timing chain cavity...
    Still a great lower end to work with for a hot rod motor..:)
     
  7. I used them all the time back in the day. I would polish the sides, then shot peen the entire rod with old rod bolts in place(and protectors for bearing surfaces of course), heat treat them in the oven and swap out the stock bolts with ARPs. they lived behind 500+hp street/strip motors all day.
    Hans
     
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  8. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    These "x" rods have less material on the ends for weight balancing I believe... So they pretty much weigh the same as the car rods...
    Damn, I wish I had some pics to post..:eek:
     
  9. BOBCRMAN
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 846

    BOBCRMAN
    Member
    from Holly

    X rods and "0" rods were used for the "pink" rod cores. Different production processes than regular rods.. They were always in seperate baskets when on the assembly line floor. I used to be in the Chevrolet V-8 Van Slyke engine facility back in the day.

    Early 68-69 production and some service rods were "dipped" in bearing material on small end for floating pins. Later went to press fit,.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
  10. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    I remember reading an article once where they tried to hold .0003" on the L-88 bbc rod small ends and installed floater pins without using bushings... And they ended up scrapping that idea..
     
  11. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Always a "smart" idea to install those ARP's before "re-sizing" the BiG end on a Sunnen hone machine...;)
     
  12. GOSFAST
    Joined: Jul 4, 2006
    Posts: 254

    GOSFAST
    Member

    If you're looking for the "stronger" rod, the "O" is much better choice!

    I've placed a photo below of both side-by-side and you can see the difference on the beam rails.

    You can also see the difference between the balance-pads, usually the thinner these pads are the stronger the rods are, most of the material is in the "body" of the rods.

    Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

    P.S. We get numerous requests still from the "resto" guys for the "O" rods, we are running low but I still have some on the shelf. They came in the "DZ" and the early "LT's".
     

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  13. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    Unless there is a rules reason that you have to use the stock rods why not just buy the Eagle or other aftermarket H-beam rods. They are stronger and come with ARP fasteners installed. I have built several SBCs using them and the machine shop always checks them first just to be sure. I have had no failures yet.
     
  14. RacerRick
    Joined: May 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,756

    RacerRick
    Member

    H beam rods tend to be heavy - usually i the realm of around 50gms a rod. This will require rebalancing, and the H beams usually are not needed.

    The stock replacement I beam rods like those from SCAT are the way to go these day for anything less than a race motor. They are forged out of 4340, have an improved design, are made to better tolerances, are much stronger, weigh the same, come with ARP bolts, and are brand new. Can't go wrong for under $200. Costs more than that to rework a set of stock rods these days.
     
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  15. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Because I'm a cheapskate...:)
    Plus those stock rods were forged and machined here in the United States...
    Unlike some of the aftermarket rods...
     
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  16. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Oh, I don't know...
    I don't mind working with a set of stockers...
    Didn't you know that all the scat stuff is made overseas???..
    I think a set of stock rods if prepped right can handle 8000 RPM's all day long...
     
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  17. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Thanks for the pic Gary...;)
    I learned something new today... About the "O" rods ...
     
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  18. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    I wonder how the newer "cracked cap" powdered metal sbc rods hold up to high performance builds????.....
     
  19. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,948

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They don't. Once you get north of about 450 hp most everyone replaces the rods.
    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  20. Silverado454
    Joined: Sep 8, 2021
    Posts: 2

    Silverado454

     
  21. Silverado454
    Joined: Sep 8, 2021
    Posts: 2

    Silverado454

    Here is a engine I'm tearing down, it has X rods, gm double roller with a windage tray.
     

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  22. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Is that out of a Vette or F body car????....
     
  23. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    Are the "O" rods cast the same way on the caps? I found a set of "X" rods in my stash, not sure if the "O" rods are identified the same way.
     
  24. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Not sure about those....
     
  25. I know this started as an old thread, but checked the drawer yesterday, I picked up a set of X rods quite some time ago, they were fitted with ARP bolts, sized and weight matched. Came from a performance machine shop out of middle Michigan. Should be good when the time comes.
     
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  26. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Let's see them.. post some pictures please... thanks!...:)
     
  27. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    I did find my set of "O" rods. I will post images tonight.
     
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  28. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

  29. Here's a pair of the ones I bought. Look close you can see the ARP logo on the bolt heads, X on the cap. The pin ends were polished down as needed. IMGP3878r.jpg IMGP3877r.jpg
     
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  30. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    Cool, thanks!....:)
     

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