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Model a rear side and rear glass install

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gabe4223, Aug 17, 2011.

  1. Gabe4223
    Joined: Nov 19, 2010
    Posts: 25

    Gabe4223
    Member
    from texas

    Hey everyone I am looking for directions or even better pictures on installing model a glass on my 1931 ford tudor sedan. I have all the material to install the windows including the glass. Just wondering if anyone can share some insight or pictures would be great as well.
    Thanks again.
     
  2. N2hotrods
    Joined: Jul 6, 2010
    Posts: 150

    N2hotrods
    Member

    The rear window has a rubber seal that is installed around the edge of the glass. The glass is held in place with the rear window garnish moulding. The garnish moulding will screw into the wood around the rear window opening. The side windows have regulators that allow the side rear windows to roll up and down. the glass is supported and rides in a felt lined channel attached to the sides of the opening. The glass is set in a metal rail with adhesive strip and attaches to the regulator.
     
  3. I am doing a 37 Ford tudor. Putting regulators in the back.
    N2, does the regulator and channel go in first or do you put the glass in the channel first?
    Thanks, Doug
     
  4. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    I wish somebody would answer this, i am trying to figure out how to put the rear side glass in a model 'a' tudor and short of taking the roof off i can't figure it out! It is a chinese puzzle, you can put either the window channel felt or the glass but not both.
     

  5. Ob1
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 411

    Ob1
    Member

    Never worked on your car, but have 15 years auto glass experience.

    Pretty sure you install the glass and attach it to the regulator, then roll it down about 1/2 way. Lubricate the channel run with soapy water and feed it down the channel and around the glass. Then hold the channel run to the glass and roll it down. when it bottoms out, hold the channel run to the body, and roll the window up.

    Work on each side evenly. Repeat as necessary.

    When the lengths are even and just about to seat across the top of the glass into the body, roll the window all the way up, then all the way down. Tug at the channel run upward so it is fully seated in the body and relaxed, packed into the channel securely instead of stretched into position.
     
  6. ask the guys on fordbarn. i'm sure they can tell you. i put them in my sedan but i'll be damned if i can remember how.
     
  7. Jay Huttenhow
    Joined: Jul 24, 2018
    Posts: 1

    Jay Huttenhow
    Member
    from Colorado

    Hi to all.


    I have not posted before so I am a little late to the party on how to install the quarter windows in a Tudor Sedan. I used the following procedure/experiment to install the quarter windows in my 1929 Model A Tudor. It is a street rod but the objective is to make it as close to a 1929 Model A as I can.
    First, the car was given to my wife by my father. He gave it to her on the condition it would stay in the family. He did not specify that it had to remain stock. He built a 1929 Model A Roadster but installed a V8-60 engine so modifications are part of the family history.
    This was my first rebuild of a Model A and all of the hints in this forum have been very helpful. I thank all who have contributed to the forum on a variety of topics. However, I sometimes tend to plow new ground on the methods to achieve the objective. That is probably from working as an engineer for 40 years. I hope some will find this information useful.

    Having read several of the posts on installing the Tudor quarter windows, it seemed to be a rather arduous task. I decided to explore the installation process to see if there was a means of installing the windows that would be easier to accomplish. First, I had removed the interior metal panel that supports the regulator. Then, in looking at the window framing, two factors were apparent. First, the top hole in the window channel was a slot. Second, the bottom hole in the channel was an inverted key hole. The top slot was accessible from behind the channel through a notch in the wood member. The bottom key hole was easily accessible. The problem boiled down to installing both felts simultaneously or doing them singly. I tried the simultaneous method and found it difficult at best. I backed out and then proceeded to install the window felts one at a time. The process was to first install the glass in the channels and then the first window felt. I chose to work from the top down so the bottom keyhole tab was flattened to allow it to proceed past the glass without difficulty. The first felt installed easily and was anchored in place by re-bending the keyhole tab to be perpendicular to the felt and bending the top slot retainer tab out to allow it to enter the upper channel slot. After the keyhole tab was re-bent the felt was levered, upwards to seat the keyhole tab in the keyhole opening. Then the upper tab was pressed through the slot and then bent down using a screwdriver to capture the tab behind the channel. I was working with all new wood so I do not know if the same features exist in the original wood components. The new wood had a notch for the upper tab and made it easy to bend the upper tab down to capture the felt. The second felt was installed from the upper side into the, in my case rear window channel, using the same procedure. Bend the lower tab to be parallel to the felt and the upper tab to be perpendicular to the felt. The felt can be slid into place a little at a time by starting it past the glass and then sliding the glass up the felt followed by sliding both down. ( Verify you do not have un-seated nails in the channel. Experience speaking.) Once the keyhole tab is at the bottom of the keyhole and inserted, the felt can be pulled or levered upwards to where the top felt tab is aligned with the slot and keyhole tab captured in the keyhole. Press the tab through the slot and bend it down and you are done. The whole process took about 10 minutes per window.
    Since I do not like hitting glass with a mallet, I used ½ “ x 24” pipe clamps to press the window into the regulator channel. A couple of oak blocks on the top edge of the glass with 3/16+ inch saw kerf to fit snugly on the glass and then pipe clamps between each of the two oak blocks and the regulator channel allows you to press the glass into the channel without any impact energy. Further, you can watch the gap at the bottom of the glass to see when it is fully seated. I used ¼ turn of the clamp screw alternating between clamps until the glass neared being fully seated and then used my best judgment on the amount of torque and the visual indication of the glass being fully seated. My wife provided a second pair of hands to assist in the process and four hands makes it easy.

    I hope there are those new to the rebuilding process that will find this useful.
     

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