I installed a Chassis Engineering rear leaf spring kit last winter in my 1950 Chevy. After an entire summer of driving and a lot of miles the springs have taken a negative arc. I still have to use 3" lowering blocks and it isn't even as low as I want it. The springs have 5 heavy leafs in them, I wanted to pull a leaf and drop some more but when I got under and saw the arc they have I am nervous about doing so. Is it normal for them to do this? Anyone else had this issue? When I ordered the springs they were supposed to be a 3" drop right from the start, never were even close. CE says it is normal for them to settle over time, but how much settling is too much?
Got a set for a '54 the other day and saw that CE's installation directions say the springs may end up arched, flat, or with a "reverse" arch and all would be considered it normal.
they are 65 up Dodge pickup/Ramcharger 4x4 frt leafs=over the years they differed a bit and in '78 up were available in 3 leaf and even Mono leaf,so the 5 leaf is a bit more than most hotrod's weight load would require...... Another source for same spring was the frt springs from '74 International 1/2 ton- 2 w/drive
I was thinking of pulling 2 leafs because I have seen the dodge springs in 3 leaf versions. Will the negative curve affect the life and strength of the spring? Or, does it really not matter if it is arched up? I just don't want to haul my family around in anything unsafe or dangerous.
When I bought my '47 it had actual Dodge truck springs on Chassis Engineering brackets, they seemed really stiff and had a high arch to them. I bought a set of RS4148 springs from CE, they had a lot less arch and dropped the car about another 3 or so inches.
I am running RS-4148LR, they told me the LR stand for low ride. Wasn't very impressed, thats why I had to go with blocks and now thinking removing a couple leafs. My car was lower with simple 3" blocks when I was still running my torque tube.
normal for them to de arch some, have had 3 sets on 3 diff cars all did the same.if you think about stock heighth compared to what you have after they settle, i bet you do have 3 inches
Huh , I just assumed C.E. built new springs for the application , not rob another vehicle for parts even if they were new ?
All the CE leafs seem to do that. What pisses me off is that the springs don't sag on the dammed trucks they came on, do they? So... you get your car all set up for rake and ride height, and then end up taking out any lowering blocks to get it back where you want it. Same thing happened to the ProSprings MII coils on my 37 and I had to get some from a different supplier. It's baloney. RE the CE the leafs, Eaton claims to have a spring that fits and won't sag, but I never tried it. Anyone? Gary
Mine sag also, but I would not recommend taking out the extra leafs as they won't hold the car up for normal driving. I did take out two leafs and ended up with a broken main leaf. You can have them redone at a good spring shop or order the Eaton ones. I have used both local and Eaton springs with good success and correct ride height. Eaton's are expensive compared to local shops in the LA area.
friend of mine bought eaton coils made up for his application, bb chevy etc, did have a problem little soft i believe, contacted eaton, another set of springs sent out, few years later still working fine. covered under warranty.
I see it as BS, I spent almost $600 on the rear end set up, I should not have to go source new springs on my own a year later because they de arch themselves. I am gonna give them a call and see what they say, wonder if they have different runs of springs with different results, some sag worse than others and some complaining of not lowering their car at all. Something has to be going on with their supply of springs.
I used Eaton to replace all four corners of the leaf springs in my '46 460 powered pickup. I gave them detailed instructions with a sketch and even gave them one of the springs I took out so they could see what I had in there. They have extensive files on old car springs. The springs I got back were exactly to my desired specs and haven't sagged after a summer of use.
News? You cant get any info from these people, they think they make gold. Not sure what I am going to do yet, might move them inboard of rails, may bag rear, not positive. I am gonna do a notch, then decide when under there. Id really like to keep static lowered with leafs, prob the way I will go. I just want to be lower, going to lower front as well, but keep a slight taildragging stance.
I bought a set of EATON springs for my '40. I ordered springs to lower my '40 coupe which has the CE kit & springs. The CE supplied springs had the reverse arc from 25,000 miles of use. The EATON springs had my car jacked up in the air !! I was told to run them awhile to see if they would settle. They did a little bit. I returned them at my expense & they came back looking as though they have been in a press brake. They had not been disassembled and re-arched. I was also charged for the springs to be shipped back to me. They were still were not right, so I reinstalled my original lowering blocks & took out the shortest leaf.
How much did removing the shortest leaf do for you? Same ride and stiffness? How much of a negative arch do you have now?
I have a little over 11,000 miles on the EATON springs. They are showing some reverse arcing. According to my records the springs have settled about 1-1/4". The removal of the shortest leaf did not change the ride.
never ran the chassis engineering 's on a chevy car even thow were a chassis eng dealer .... we use and sell only possies 3" drop supper slide springs for the 50's chevys . on a side note a 3" block will only get it so so low i dont see why you couldnt take some leafs out of the stack .. once in you use a 4" block or bigger your getting into yer scrub line
I used Chassis Engineering springs on a 39 Ford Convertible years ago and never experienced this problem,,I did use a good set of gas shocks. HRP
CE is usually good stuff and good to deal with. You said they were not even close to the 3 inch lower when you got them but you have to realize that if you stock springs are already worn out and sagging its not going to be 3 inches lower than that,but 3 inches lower than what stock was originally. Don't be afraid to try swapping leafs around or taking a leaf or two out. I have also flipped a leaf over to de arch springs on my shoebox before that worked well too.
I have the CE leaf dropped set up in my 52 along with 4" blocks I haven't even drive'n it yet and the right side has sagged about 3/4 of an inch lower than the left begining to pizz me off a bit because I have measured everything to correct it and it has to be the springs.
I am not happy to hear this but I do like knowing I am not the only one. Kind of sucks for the money spent and the amount of time they expect you to wait for them to get the springs in. For as long as it takes I would think they could at least build them right.
If I were to do this again I would contact Landrum Performance Springs. The address I have is as follows: 105 E Etna St. Mentone, IN 46539 phone 1-866-703-3154 or 574-353-1674 I bought my EATON springs because they had a booth at the NATS & had this sheet/flyer specifically for the 48" street rod spring. I figured they had their act together. Unfortunately, for me they did not.
The Jalopy Journal
