Technical Early Ford Banjo Rear End Rebuild

I think you would be looking at just a little more time for set up and a lot more money.

If your already had the banjo rearend and you wanted to rebuild it with a new gear set and bearings you could possible spend around $800. (If you provide all the labor of the rebuild)

If you wanted to throw a quick change in it I think they are around $1200 to $1500? not sure if they come with a gear set?

Also I think on a 32 you may need to notch the stock gas tank to make room to clear the rear section of the quick change?

If you tearing apart a banjo. Possibly because its a leaker or you have a set of different gears (Different ratio) you want to change out. Possibly your bearings may be good and all you would be out is a gasket set.

 

Not meaning to high jack the thread, but good place to insert question for the group. My banjo has 140W in it and VERY small annoying leak where the axle housing meets the center housing (a couple drops a week on the floor). Would switching to 600W stop that?

 

No such thing as 600W. Stuff sold as 600W today is not the same as back in the day. If it's leaking with 140W, it's probably going to leak no matter what you put in it.

 

This thread is outstanding! This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks for posting, and to those who shared their knowledge on this one. Will be doing a banjo here in the next few weeks, and this will help out a lot.
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Tdog
thanks for writing this 'book' , it is a saver, I will need to go into my 37 Ford truck some day....very useful.

 

Yea I am not sure about that 600w oil he bought? He was sold on it though and dumped it in. My dad did say it appeared to be a little thicker then the 140. But it may be his imagination getting the better of him. He is getting up in age LOL. Either way this maybe the reason all the bearing preload specs from the old build instructions from the vintage manuals seem to be less then todays specs. I think the reason would be the 600w of yesteryear vrs the 140w of today. I would think the thick oil back in the day would require less pre load on the bearings. And todays bearings would require more preload due to the lighter oils used today. In this article I matched "newer" standard of rearend preloads matching what is used in the 9" and 8.8" set ups. Which in my opinion would go with the lighter oils of today. Of course this is just an opinion. I m no chemist just an office guy who did not want to pay someone else to work on my shit.

 

Howco and greesemonkey, I am glad you guys found this usefull. I remember when I open up my first banjo I was lost at first. But when you break it down they are not that tuff. They just take time. Good luck on your rebuilds. Let me know if you have any questions and I will help if I can.

 

Man, just what I was looking for since I'm gonna rebuild my banjo tomorrow.

Moderators: Please, put this thread in the TECH section!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

x2 ..........................

 

Here it is installed in the car. He has been running it for a couple months now and loving it. Been on some 3 hours road trips with it and all over town. Drives it weekly.

 

Dredging up this old (but excellent) thread, in the hopes that somehow the pictures can be reattached. I'm a visual kinda guy and the pictures really help. tdog, do the pics still exist?

 

Re-inserting the photo would be nice, or re-posting!

 

I have to agree. Hot rodding is about sharing.

 

Think the problem may have occurred when the site was updated, several really interesting post had that problem. But would be nice if it was brought up to date with the photos.

 

It has very little or anything to do with the hamb. Its outside picture sharing programs. The hamb is open to all in my opinion. It's the outside internet properties.

 

I think you're mis-understading. When the most recent revision of the HAMB was done, many threads lost their photos. It has to do with the way the links were coded to appear in the thread.
For instance, my threads lost all of their pictures. All of my pictures were hosted on the HAMB and not on an outside picture sharing program. The pictures didn't disappear from my albums, but the links to make them appear on threads were coded wrong for the new layout.

 

It looks like, in the case of this particular thread, that the images are all from an outside site, swervingt.com , that is either gone, or having DNS issues. @tdog the OP would be the only guy that can fix it, as it would seem to be his site. tdog doesn't seem to have logged on since April.

 

Sorry everybody I have been gone building an early bronco. My buddy had all the photos on his website swervinggt. He took the site down and with it all the photos. Photos are gone. Did not realize it till it was too late. I have another rear end to build . It's a Columbia two speed. I am planning on getting to it in the spring or possibly this winter. Can redocument then. Sorry. I feel
bad for you guys building and not having the photos. It was never my intention to have them gone from the post.

Tom



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That's a bummer, I'm sorry to hear that. Can't your buddy just give you the pix or would you need to re-take them? Did he not have the site backed up locally?

 

I asked him when I realized they were down. He said they were gone. Not sure if he had them on hard drive and he erased them to make room?


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Too bad about the pics.

 

I agree with all of you....is too bad with no pictures...

 

I know this is an old thread, but I need to know if you can change the torque tube seal up near the joint without disassembling the entire rear end. I was hoping I could roll the rear end backwards a ft or so and access the drive shaft seal.

 

Are you talking the driveshaft seal that seals the torque tube to rear OR the pinion seal???

If you unbolt the the torque tube and roll your rear end back, you'll be separating the driveshaft from the U-joint at the trans. To undo the coupler pin etc. And then you will be back to taking apart the clam shell and parts to release the torque tube just you you can get the driveshaft back into the U joint.

 

Yeah. There are three seals, one at each axle and one at front of torque tube. I am just unsure if the seal in the torque tube up near the transmission is accessible once the driveshaft is separated from the back of the tranny

 

It should be accessible , usually that's not an issue . Are you trying to prevent gear oil from leaking from somewhere??

 

Exactly....have leak but can’t tell where it’s coming from, but the tranny is always full but need to top off rear ended oil from time to time and not leaking from the axles so it has to be a seal in front of torque tube. Oil leak is somewhere near rear of tranny. I am getting ready to install 39 tranny so will replace this seal at that time. Just wondering about accessibility.

 

I am no expert but I got an idea that you have to pull the drive shaft to change the seal. You could probably slide the torque tube forward and use form a gasket. GM makes some stuff in an aerosol can that they actually use at the factory in place of a gasket that works really well.

 

you just need to slide the rear back, as you thought, but then take the torque tube off the diff. the seal goes out to the front. you need a pipe 1 5/8" (which is 1 1/4" water pipe) then you hammer that from the back end and you will push the seal and the bearing race all out at once. forgot, first remove the snap ring at the front, and the speedo gear. i use an old drive shaft with the coupler on for the ram rod, but pipe will work fine if you dont have a junk pile of rears.

 

one more thought, if your trans is always full, the oil from the rear will go up the tube if you have a heavy rake. bruce's rod shop (i think) makes a seal that goes between the tube and the rear that works quite good they say. the front seal you are talking about goes in with the lip to the front, its purpose is to keep trans and u joint oil from going back to the rear. sounds like you have the opposite problem