Technical 1965 Chrysler Altered Wheelbase Help

I'm trying to replicate a factory 65 Coronet altered wheelbase car.

Does anyone have access to an original 1965 Chrysler altered wheelbase factory car? I need some measurements from a factory car.
1) At the aft end of the new front frame rails: What is the distance that the rails extend below the torsion bar cross member?<O></O>
2) At the forward end of the new front frame rails: If a bar is placed across the bottom side of the rails from one side to the other, what is gap between the bar and the bottom of the lower radiator support?<O></O>
3) At the aft end of the front frame rails there is a ½” bolt hole in the side of the rail about 2” from the end. What is the exact location of that bolt hole? <O></O>
4) What is the distance from the bottom of the torsion bar cross member to the center line of the torsion bar. <O></O>
<O></O>
410mopar

 

410mopar, didn't Steve Magnante create a book that explains all you need to know to create an AFX car?

 

Yes I did, but I'm replicating a Chrysler factory car. Many people have done altered wheelbase cars, but very few actually did them like the factory did. Thats whey I need measurent from an original car.

 

Guffey is the man

 

I recall seeing actual blueprints, but can't for the life of me remember where. Maybe Racer-X would know.

 

did the "factory " even make altered wheelbase cars ? they were job shopped weren't they ?

 

I think they were built by Ambelwagon, the ambulance builders.

 

I found this. There's a pdf file on this page that might what you're looking for.

http://www.moparmax.com/features/2006/i_5-report-1.html

 

Yes 410 Mopar that technical report booklet shows alot good stuff that factory did to those cars my freind aka Skicker once was a HAMB member has that same booklet i broused threw it one day has all the scale measurements that factory used need to get your hands on one.Havent seen Skicker in a while ill try to get in touch with him.

 

I agree, contact Guffy. He has cars that he can measure for you.

 

Welcome to the Hamb 410mopar. Lots of very good folks here to help you.

 

Yes, if I were looking to ask someone it would be Mike Guffey. Gene.

 

I`m workin on my 2nd afx car and its a torsion bar done the old school way. Guess I need to get some pics up on this one. YOu can order your custom torsion bars from firm feel.
Howie

 

i have a original factory book. i will take a look at it as soon as i can. this book was the feasibility study done by the engineers. every measurement cut and weld is documented. after the first car was complete they gave it to amble wagon to make more. the way the first car and the others were done is not the same. so the book is a good guide but only for the prototype is it exact. keep something in mind those cars were heavily modified during their careers. changes were made week to week. a pile of old magazines from early 65 may help sort some things out before they were changed too much.

 

I hope you post the build on here once you get the info and begin it.

Hope you will forgo the dizzy for a MAGNETO.

 

Cool pics, I see where the 410 comes from...

 

Anyone interested in an old A990 car? Friend is helping a widow sell Dick Smith's old Fire Brewed AFX car with or without the engine and extra parts. Just had the conversation last week so its still available. I'm not good with PM's so email me at [email protected]

 

Another source you may want to try is Jim Thoren at Super Car 1 collectables. They have been marketing 1965 MOPAR A/FX AWB Dodges and Plymouths in 1:18 scale. These cars have the exact dimensions of the original and Jim may be able to assist. E-mail Jim at [email protected]

 

Get Pete Haldiman's excellent book on the 65 awb and Jim Schild's 65 authenticity guide for AWB. both have all of the info you need. the 65 frame rails are located 4" lower than the stockers. you're on the right track, put a 1" shim between your stockers and your new 3 x 2 rails. the back measurement where you're wondering how far down the new rail hangs down below the torsion bar x member is @ 3/4". Amblewagon just put a little piece of angle iron on the end to cap it and weld it to the bottom of the x member. Wait to do your torsion bar rear anchors once you have a k frame and some long bars on there, and find out where the bars want to go.
FWIW if you want a square and true car. This is a job to do on a jig, frame plate, frame machine, not hanging on a rotisserie. your car is flexing hanging there.

 

Please.please please! share this build with us as it progresses.

 

did you acid dip the car

 

How are you going to alter the rear end. I am using a 4 door rear section and adjusting the rear door opening jamb in alignment with the 2 door jam which puts it at 15".

 

pay very close attention to the four door parts. the rear quarters are not the same shape. its a very subtle difference that will require a lot of mud to try to look right. i had to use a four door piece on my 64 ply. after a on track incident. it looked like a match until we started to weld it up.

 

i looked at my book last night. they use language in it that goes like this. use a spacer around this size. or cut about this much off. its not a exact science even for the engineers. if you dont acid dip the car then you need to take a propane torch to the leaded areas to melt out the lead that would have been removed during the acid dip process. the area at the rear of the door sill and the area where the roof meets the rear or the rear quarter are easy to get at.

 

Its sad Rich Lafevre, does not frequent the site anymore. Mr. Rich was a wealth of knowledge when Steve Magnante and I were building together here in SoCal. He worked out of my shop for a very short time, have not kept track of him for awhile. Most recall his car The Performance King... There is another source. I still do work for Bob Mosher, out here in SoCal. He has a vast collection of Chrysler documents. He built one altered many years back, then swore he would never do one again.

Dale