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Shoebox C notch placement and help!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chaddilac, Feb 18, 2014.

  1. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    I'm about to start on a shoebox frame and install a C notch... Trying to figure out the centerline without the axle in there.... Can someone throw me some pointers or help?

    It's a gambino notch and it doesn't seem to line up that well with the lower edge of the frame according to the top cap?

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1392777698.333726.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1392777715.539735.jpg



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  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    No one???


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  3. mcrock49
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 15

    mcrock49
    Member

    Weld it

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  4. Mr.Dickies
    Joined: Jan 23, 2007
    Posts: 664

    Mr.Dickies
    Member

    Check Ian's shoebox build ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1392784477.515243.jpg
    Here's a picture of it installed.


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  5. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Ian's photos were deleted


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  6. Mr.Dickies
    Joined: Jan 23, 2007
    Posts: 664

    Mr.Dickies
    Member

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1392836597.449234.jpg Heres one off their eBay listing. If you give me a few days I believe I saved his pictures when I was thinking of bagging mine.


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  7. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Thanks... That's a 49-52 Chevy frame... I'm just not sure if I should centre with the factory bump stops or not?


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  8. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I'd like to believe the guy that sold it to you would tell you how to install it, no?
     
  9. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    I sent him a pm but waiting to hear back... I didn't buy it though but it came from gambino kustoms.


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  10. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,874

    Chris Casny
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  11. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

  12. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,874

    Chris Casny
    Member

    Makes sense to center it between the bumpstop mounting holes. Even if you move it a little bit (3/4"-1" +/-) it's still gonna work. The inside of the notch is about 8" and the axle's diameter is 4" the most, that will give 4" to play with.


     
  13. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Thank you, just wanted to make sure I was thinking correctly!!


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  14. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Got them mocked up and I'm not understanding why they aren't flush with the frame rail bottoms?

    I leveled the lowest part of the frame rails and welded them to the table so they couldn't move. Then mocked up the notch flushing the rear part and then leveling the top of the notch and measuring and checking for level side to side?

    Weld it up and fill in the gaps??

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1393536052.566528.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1393536066.200080.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1393536075.913744.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1393536141.455203.jpg


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  15. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,477

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Why can't you just trim the peices to get what you want??
     
  16. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Well it's supposed to be for a 49-51 ford shoebox!! Shouldn't have to "make" it work!


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  17. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    What do ya'll think? Weld it up and fill in the gaps?
     
  18. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    I would shorten it to match at the lower part of your frame. It's been awhile since I did a shoe but I believe there will still enough of a notch to drop to the ground with a tall tire
     
  19. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Thank you Matt!! I think that's what I'm gonna do that way I have less to fill and more to trim!!

    I'll keep you posted!
     
  20. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Thanks for the help fellas... Nearly done with this one!!!

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1395263498.333013.jpg


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  21. EBW
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 544

    EBW
    Member

    Glad to see you finish this. Can you tell us the details on what you did ?? How much did you trim etc.
     
  22. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Yea I ended up putting the sides about 1/2" off the bottom rail so I had plenty of room to weld around the sides... Then I had to trim the bottom cap a 1/2" in the rear and the top cap got trimmed about a 1/2" or so front and rear. Made sure it was all square and level with the main part if the frame rails and then side to side and burned it in!

    Initially I set the frame on the table and leveled the main rails and welded them to the table to keep it all straight as I worked on it.

    I also welded in the cross pieces before I cut the frame sections out inside he notch... The passenger side didn't move when I cut it out, and the driver side moved 1/16" when I cut it out. So it was still straight!

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1395330715.245525.jpg



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  23. EBW
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 544

    EBW
    Member

    Thanks for the Info !!
     

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