Just shot some blasted parts in Nason 2 part etch primer. A cheap way to go, but so far I'm pleased with the results. How long should I wait before I spray Evercoat Featherfill G2 on it? If I have clean parts painted in etch primer, do I have to scuff the paint before shooting Featherfill if it's days after shooting the etch? I'm just a fabricator trying not to fuck up a paint job. Thanks!
I would scuff the parts if it has been over 24 hours. It may not be needed but I would do it to be safe. I've been painting over 50 years and I go the extra mile to keep strange things from happening. Might not be according to hoyle but better safe than sorry. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.
DO NOT SHOOT FEATHER FILL OVER ETCHING PRIMER. It will not work. There will be a chemical reaction between the chromate and the activator of the feather fill. Turns into gum.
every etch primer has a window in which the primer can be topcoated within a certain amount of time, but seeing your waiting days, i would scuff everything down with a red scratch pad. can i ask why your using feather fill? if your not trying to fill pits or grinding marks, i would suggest a couple of coats of high build 2 part primer. i see the dash in the picture, and if it's smooth as it looks, shit i would just put a coat of sealer on it and then topcoat it with a single stage urethane and call it a day! you ever spray feather fill??!! never mind that, you ever sand feather fill??!!
Whoa. I don't see chromate listed on the can & it says "CHROME FREE". Am I good? I really appreciate the advice... -r
good point about feather fill... 2 part high build it is. Parts are in good shape, but I'm hoping to block 'em out to around perfect (+ or -). Thanks!
the nason self etch takes a while to dry--days id sand the dry etch primer with 400 dry then throw a coat of reg build primer on---sand it with 320 and feather fill ---block it with 180 then primer surfacer on top of that--block with 400 seal it and paint
Do a test panel, I wouldnt just shoot it, then have to figure out how to get it off. Just so you know: Slick Sand (EVERCOAT) just came out with a bare metal high build primer. Super Build 4:1 No need to etch or seal.
haha...Now you tell me! I'm going to skip the feather fill and use a urethane high build. These pieces are almost perfect as they sit so I'm not trying to hide anything really. The plan now is to wait till the weekend, scuff 'em with a red scotchbrite pad and shoot them with the urethane primer. After that I'll block sand, shoot 'em in sealer and then paint. Sound reasonable? -r
Feather fill G2 is fine to go over an etch as long as the etch is fully cured also Super Build is not really a direct to metal. I know it says you can spray it direct to metal but the corrosion resistence is based on it's mil thickness not a change in Chemistry that makes it a DTM product. Evercoat does have a hybrid hibuild coming out or just released that is a much better DTM hi build primer.
Thats how ya do it. As far as the DTM Slick Sand goes, I havent tested it yet. Just got word of it. When I do test it I will give a report. Have fun.
Yes, but if you don't need to block sand because the parts are nice in the etch prime, you could just use a non sanding sealer compatible with your paint system. If the etch primer has been dry for a while, a scuff would be good. from the TDS 491-55 must be followed with a Primer-Surfacer or Sealer prior to topcoating with any Nason® topcoat. That particular etch primer seems to be a mild etch with a minimal film build, and not a vinyl wash etch primer. Looks like OK product. overspray
One more question before this thread drifts in to oblivion... Is there any scenario in which you can spray etch primer over paint? Reason being... I have major areas on the car that are stripped to metal right next to areas that do not need to be stripped. Can I spray etch on the stripped area with out screwing the other areas up? Also, can etch primer EVER be sprayed over filler? in this case it's U-pol glaze putty... Thanks again fellas!
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