Technical Using a wagon's roof rack?

I have been wondering if I can physically mount my mtb and kayaks etc on top of my 63 Nova Chevy II wagon, using a modified version of the oem rack?

I see the only thing holding it on is a small insert.

If you have modifieds yours, what did you do to the interior structure? I have the headliner out, so now would be the perfect time to address this.

Pics are a definite plus.

Thanks

Root
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bttt

 

These guys sell this version that attaches to the drip rail but I wouldnt have a clue how well it holds up, maybe you could put some extra braces from your existing rack over to your drip rails???
http://dillehaystreet.com/shop/

 

I guess they are just for looks......

 

They are for looks only, they used to have a tag on them that said " wieght limit 20 pounds " at least that's what our 66 Chevy wagon rack said.

 

Been using a set of these roof racks like Dilleyhay are selling since the 60's to carry canoes. They work great.

Currently using a wider cross member to fit a pop top camper trailer but still have the originals for use on the 64 Malibu. Originals came with a fitting to take a round tube and a cantalevered bracket with a eye bolt and wing nut as a clamp for the canoe.

Canuck

 

I'm just wondering if I could add some bracing under the headliner to stiffen it up. I'll chat with the Engineers at work tomorrow.
The rack I have is an oem style.

 

im interested in this as well, does this include the rack or just hinges? is it a pretty universal kit?

 

It appears to be just the brackets.

 

It is a useful kit, assuming your drip edge can handle the loads. As a crossmember I've used a 2x4 tapered (slightly) into a NACA airfoil, w/(2) quarter-round moldings tacked to the front side of it.

 

I would think it feasible to put structure inside the roof as you have suggested. Perhaps using square tube material and bending a contour to closely match the roof skin and extending to the side structure. Locating the crossmembers as near vertical pillars as possible to transfer loads into them. Fabricate brackets for the tube crossmembers that bear against the inside of the roof skin and provide attach points for the exterior roof rack mounts.

 

Im sure if you could get some tubing or thick flat stock bent to the contour of your roof and long enough to reach the structural supports on the sides under the head liner, it would hafta help.

I would either weld or bolt the 2 supports to the sides structures after making provisions for the rack bolts to bolt directly to the new supports through the original roof holes, thats if I thought the original roof rack itself would hold up without crumpling...........
.......or just make some detachable racks that would go over the top of the original for use only when you needed them like the dillehay ones or you might even find something at a outdoor sporting good store where they sell kayaks etc.

........after a quick search, I found all kinds of adjustable roof rack bars, Im sure you could make something like that work unless you are just set on using your original rack.

 

There have been tremendous loads both in weight and wind resistance carried by the rain gutters of automobiles when cars and pickups HAD rain gutters. I wouldn't worry about a rack which is gutter mounted. The factory shiny ones have also been abused and I don't know anyone who lost a load using one. Maybe just lucky.

 

Shoot.. I used to strap the most heinous things to the roof racks of my wagons. Plywood, sheet rock, furniture etc. Of course I always tied it fore and aft to the bumpers and a hitch if I had one.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to reinforce it from the inside though. 1/8" stainless steel would be my choice but aluminum would be good too, just make it maybe 1" on all sides bigger than the footprint of the mount.

Bob

 

Dad used to carry a 12' John boat on a roof rack bolted to the drip rails on our 65' Falcon 2-door sedan.. never a problem!

 

The classic photo. Root will figure something.

 

that car's got gutters just buy some yak or thule racks and be done with it. not traditional, but you won't risk losing your MTB or boat in the process. if you can't find them locally shoot me a PM I've got a set of them in the basement that haven't been used since I sold my truck with gutters.

on a related note--you'd be surpriesed what you can carry on factory racks. have a buddy who hauled the belly tank he turned into his shop sign (Rocket Automation) about an hour strapped to the roof of a 70's or 80's something wagon. I would have loved to ride along just to watch traffic--LOL

 

Not a very good pic, but here's what I am talking about. It is installed using small number 10 screws in 8 places.

 

OH HELL YES! damm near shit myself laughing seeing this one!

 

I would reinforce the roof,,heck a piece of 1/8" strap across the front and the same thing in the rear could spread the weight evenly.

Also the gutter clip on type work well,I had something similar on my '66 Dodge van and I believe the paper work said each one was good for 20 lbs,,so in my way of thinking that was 80 lbs.

We carried canoes on top and the gutters never changed their shape. HRP

 

Most stock wagon roof racks are mounted to the area on the roof where the cross braces are, i cut up a parts wagon one time and the roof was quite a few layers and the bracing was thick. I would just add plates 1/8" thick plates welded into the inner roof panel, the rest of the roof should be able to support the weight.

 

get yourself a proper rack from the bike shop or sporting goods store, those things are strong. and will hold anything you want to put up there without damaging the roof.

 

They work well for what they are designed for, packages and luggage, supported on the strips and tied off to the rails. If You want to go beyond that just get a proper rack.

 

Root, I have 25 years experience with roof racks and am a Yakima dealer. lets work on some stuff for these early cars!

 

They are only as strong as the underlying support.

 

I looked at mine today. It's not attached to anything substantial.

 

Yeah but they look odd.

 

What is going to look odd is your 1500 dollar mountain bike suffering road rash and the family behind you trying to avoid it. Your Mtn bike isn't old school nor is your kayak. I think Yakima racks are cool, when I lived in Oregon I never took mine off, there was always something to go and do. Get one. Sheet metal screws, sheeez.

 

Man, I wonder what people did before Yakima. I'm not trying to be period correct, but I already have 8 holes punched in the roof. I don't need more. Besides, what are the chances that a Yakima contour for the towers wil match the roofline of a 50 year old wagon?

I am planning on adapting some of the later model too rack components to the stock rack. Which is pretty substantial other than the mounting foot area.






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