Sand blaster vs. Compressor dilemma

I have a new TP cabinet it is their smallest unit. It requires 10-15 CFM @ 15 psi. I am trying to find a 110v compressor to do the job. I found only the 220v type compressor can meet the CFM. I have a new shed where the compressor will go. I am trying avoid running a second dedicated line just for a 220v compressor. ,

 

Well, a 220 volt line will let you run a buzz box welder too!

 

15 psi must be a typo. Size of the cabinet doesn't matter, blasting uses ALOT of air and doubtful you will find a 110v unit that will keep up that won't be running all the time. You will need a 2 stage compressor and something in the 60-80 gallon range, probably 5hp. 220v is the way to go.

 

Save your money and buy a real air compressor. I bought one of those Harry Homeowner compressors in the seventies (220V) and it wont support a blasting cabinet. You are just wasting money on a toy when you really want a tool.

 

15 amps is a 2hp compressor. The limit for plugging into ordinary 110v receptacle is 15 amps. That is a 2hp compressor. For anything more you need to 220v.

The amount of air a siphon blaster needs is determined by the air jet/orfice in the gun. A good gun will have changeable orifice and nozzle sizes. 2 hp will support continuous blasting with a gun suitable for only small parts, or very slow blasting of bigger ones.

 

A common misperception is the need for a two stage pump (talking piston pumps here). Not necessarily so. I think this comes from confusing pressure with volume. Two stage is typically necessary if you need over 125psi, and some two stage compressors can reach, say 175psi, and still not produce a sufficient volume of air for a blast cabinet, some air driven tools, and so forth. Not saying there's anything wrong with a two stage, just that it's not an absolute necessity to get high volumes of air. There are many good high volume single stage compressors out there (though they do have multi pistons), some are very well priced for the home user. When choosing a compressor decide the priorities; volume of air, amount of pressure you'll really need, or a combination of those two. If you're doing almost entirely the kind of work we talk about on here, body tools that are often air hogs, hvlp spray equipment, blast cabinets, and so forth, volume is more important that pressures above 125psi.........don't pass on a good deal single stage if that's what you're doing and the unit meets the high volume output.

 

10-15 CFM at 15 psi,
hell I can fart that much.
That must be a type-o

Anyone serious enough to do their own blasting shouldn't be thinking twice about a 220 line. Or contemplating doing it with an oiless noise maker.

 

You really need a 7-10 hp compressor to do a decent job . 20 cfm @ 150 lbs is really needed to do a good job. Dont waste your time with small compressors or siphon feed sandblasters... I know this from experience.

 

Sorry it was a type "o" ; it should be ..................10- 15 CFM @ 80 PSI

 

There is no question that pressure pot blasters are more effective than siphon blasters, but I disagree that siphon blasters are a waste of time. Siphon blasters are common in industry and they are reliable, effecting, and efficient. A good siphon blaster is a serious tool. Maybe we are not referring to the same thing? I am not talking about the ones with a little can of media mounted on the gun, or the ones with a little free-standing can of media and a cheap gun. One disadvantage of pot type blasters is that they need a LOT of air. More compressor than most do-it-yourselfers are willing to buy.

 

The high school auto shop I taught in had a three phase compressor that was 5 or 6 hp with an 80 gallon tank and it wouldn't keep up with the sandblast cabinet if it was being run on a continuous basis.
A guys has to remember that a sandblaster uses up air just about like an air hose that was cut in two would when it's being run.

 

I recently sold my pot type blaster. 7 1/2 hp and a 20 hp compressors running simultaneously could barely keep with it! The only practical way to run something like that at home would be with a good sized engine driven compressor.

 

I think the OP is talking about a hobby type blaster and not a production unit.

I run a pretty good sized TP cabinet and a 5 HP upright dual stage Black Max compressor. It looks exactly like the ones in the back room of every gas station in the 50s/60s It will do anything that I need. It was a hefty investment for a hobbyist but I did the right thing. I use it for everything. Money well spent and no need to sell it to get a bigger unit and lose money on the original purchase. Only buy one it will last a life time.

 

Another important point to consider, is that if the compressor is just barely able to keep up with demand, running all the time you are blasting, is that you'll really need a great moisture trap. The more a compressor runs, it gets hotter and hotter, and when the compressed air condenses, you get tons of water in the air line. A MAJOR problem with any sort of blasting equip.
Like the others have said, get a good comp. 220v is the only way to go.

 

If all you want to do is sandblast a few small parts, get the small compressor. Let it build up pressure and you can sandblast for a minute or two before it poohs out. If you need more air see if you can pick up a spare tank someplace and add it to the system.

You won't be able to run a factory but for casual home use it will be adequate.

In other words it might be nice to have a big block Suburban but a Honda will get you there, just not as fast and won't carry as much.

By the way I have an old shop with 110 wiring, I have a little 2HP compressor and I do sand blasting, spray painting etc. I'm not saying it is the best or fastest but it is better than nothing. In my book when you tell some guy he HAS to have an outfit he can't afford or give up completely, you are not doing him any favors. Some great custom cars and hot rods were built in little lean to garages and in driveways, with less equipment and tools than some of you carry in your trunk. But that was back when guys had brains, talent, and knew how to do the work. They did not think the only way to get something was go to the store and buy it.

 

Chaz is right. I sold air compressors for a living and the smallest compressor to properly run a sand blaster is 7 1/2HP. My 5 HP is barely adequate and I hopped up the pump

 

Maybe I missed it in the previous replies, but going with 220v will use less electric..the higher the voltage, the lower the amperage.

 

Don't shoot yourself in the dick trying to run a workshop on 110v if you have 220 service available.

Without getting too deep into the compressor debate, 2hp should be considered a bare minimum for a shop compressor.

Running any big motor load on the 110v service will cost you more money. A balanced load across the 220v legs is what the power company want's to see. 220v motors will cost you less to run.

Spend the money now, and run a useful size 220v circuit out to the shop. It will pay for itself.

B.

 

This what I did to get volume need found a used compressor to go with mine and tied them togather with a check to stop back flow. So when blasting or needing large air flow both are on. But heres the thing there both 5hp 60 gal. C.H. compressors cheapies I've learned a lot about the tricks played by compressor companys since. This way has been good for me but I'm going to soup them up here in month or so.

 

put a proper size compressor in the house/basement and run an air hose out to the shed. and to "kick it" up a notch add an air storage tank in the shed. sandblasters love VOLUMN so the extra tank will compensate for a too small compressor.

 

To see what you will need, go to this link and click on the various compressors. Yes, the guy is selling his compressors, but there is a lot of truth in what he says.
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/518643.htm

Bill

 

I just entrenched 220V wire (4-wire inside 1" gray conduit) for 75 feet from my house out to my shop. Easy, once I started digging. (!)
Bury the conduit 18" deep, (below the frost line) and connect to an indoor box (under $25 with 30 amp breaker) add a $7 plug receptacle, and you're in business.

Best thing I ever did...220 will run anything I want to put out there...mainly running my 200 amp MiG welder and lathe now...but there will be more.

 

I disagree more storage will not make up for a smaller compressor. It will only take longer to run low but it will also take longer to catch back up. It's a wash in the end an adequate compressor is what it takes.

 

Is the price in your state for Amperes or Watt ?
For the same power, a 220 volts take half Amperes.
But the Watts are the same ( Amperes x Voltage ), so the power consumption is the same.

I think the idea of 220 taking less electric is an urban legend.

 

In the long run you will be sorry if you don't go bigger compressor with 220. As stated many times above, the blasters just use too much air to run effictively with a 110 compressor.

 

Maybe you can blast a fifty cent piece every few mins with a 110 noise maker.
Maybe that's all you are doing ?

 

couple of people mention horsepower. I got a lesson in HP of electric motors when I got a giant cast iron Quincy pump for free. the breaker on my "5 HP" Craftsman 60 gallon compressorthat I swapped the pump on kicked in before the pressure in the tank got high enough to do anything. I called a local compressor place and had a chat with the guys there and was told that compressor companies like Craftsman just out and out lie about their HP ratings. I purchased a 3 HP Baldor motor and it will run all day long and not even work up a sweat.

 

It is not as simple as "watts". Power factors, load balance etc. all play a part.

The electric utility prefers a balanced load. Over time many panels become badly balanced by changes made to the building. The connections in a panel can also become power wasters as they age & loosen.

Doing a "tune up" on a customer's panel usually results in a reduced bill. re-balancing the loads as much as possible, and tightening all of the connections is all that a "tune up" is. I have found main lug connections that were running 100f over ambient - that heat is power you paid for. Unbalanced, lagging loads on a utility meter run the use up. That meter is tested with a 220v 1kW resistor load.

The reduction of running amps by going to 220v can reduce losses in connection resistances too. Any loss in your system is watts you pay for.


B.

 

Thanks guys very good advice. I will go with the 220v service. I need a good 2 stage compressor. The thing is I have the TP model 780T top load cabinent and now I will look into a compressor.
I have a small (home) restoration business, I do vintage license plates mostly, small coke coolers, air meters, etc.. Presently, I use air tubine system and a HD portable compressor for painting only. I remove paint by chemical stripping.
There are so many compresors out there. I do not need the NASA Rocket type that the big body shops use and I'm concern the HF/HD types will not cut the mustard and I'm on a budget. Please advise.
Thanks
Tony

 

I agree. I have a 60 gallon ingersoll rand with a single stage pump. Runs on 220. I can only get about 90 seconds of blasting before I (and my neighbors) have to hear that god awful rattling. An air compressor is just one of those things you just go big on, the first and last time you will need to buy.