**In like a lion, out like a HAMB** March 2013 Banger Meet

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.billsbangers.com

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...84#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tu...e-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...61#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?...icdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/T...e-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

subscribed

 

March on!

 

thanks for starting

 

Wow March already!
Anyway question for you all, I have a Miller OHV in my 28 roadster, it needs a new radiator.
I'm thinking of two options, Berts Model A does a high perf unit that is made from record originals, or a brasscraft one? (Brasscraft also does one that is pressurised that wont be seen under the hood)
Given I'm at 5,500 feet and water already boils at a lower temp and I don't want an electric fan - what radiator do you suggest?

It's in a 40's style rod with everything older than 48 (apart from tyres and new brake cylinders LOL!)
Thanks
David


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Are you running a pressurized cooling system?

If not, I would make sure that whichever radiator you get will hold 6-7 psi.

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beware of the ides of march

subscribed

 

I've been ready up on past banger threads.....Lots of info.....Almost overwhelming.

I can't wait to start making some more power!!!!

 

Careful, it gets expensive!!!!!!



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Subscribed, Thanks!

 

Mr Crazydaddyo,

Is that the rear main in your pic? Do you know what might have caused it?

 

My dad is Mr. Crazydaddyo, you can call me Crazy.

Yes, that is the rear main.

Cause:
Overindulgence. Too many RPM. Questionable crank mods. I mainly think the cross drilling of the crank to get oil to the #4 rod was done wrong and with too big of a drill.



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Thanks for the Crazy reply

What should the proper/correct size hole be? If that size were to be, say 5/16ths, then going slightly under size, say 1/4" be safer and still provide enough volume of oil for the job? Note, i'm just using those numbers for discussion.

 

I'd have to check again, but I think that one was @ 1/4" or 9/32". 3/16" would be the biggest and 1/8" would be the smallest i would go. Volume isn't that big of an issue here. Pressure is.


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CDO, you have JBWeld, right?

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

I've skipped out on the banger meets for a while good to see em still going strong

 

The George Riley papers state a 1/4 inch drillshould be used. Bob

 

Funny, thats usually what causes that in overheads too. Small world.

 

Not yet, it just has an old recored original. Hence thinking about going to a pressurized one.

 

I went strange as far as banger... 54 lotus/ford four cylinder... Looks cool


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

these are a few pictures of the motor and project early on.


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I like your thinking and before anyone says its not trad it is and the later twin cam versions even more so they were used in race cars but now parts are expensive and hard to get your hands on great little engines will look great all polished up in a light tee bet it will be fun too.

 

I'm new to the older stuff. Any way to convert or change a 29 Banjo rear to posi or limited slip? Anything that is a "bolt-in" posi from that era?

My banger is about 90hp so I don't think excess HP will be an issue.

Thanks!

 

quickchange . try F.A.S.T. all stock are open

 

excuse my Newbieness.....what is F.A.S.T. Link?

 

F.A.S.T. IS hopped up 4 bangers ! hill climb races . FORD A SPEED TECH .
http://www.hotforhotfours.com/
they may have an extra quick change ...............

 

I don't know about extra.
I think Derek is still making them down under, sort of.

J

 

Quick change rear ends still use the stock axels and ring and pinion. Still doesn't have posi or limited slip. I'm running a V-8 banjo quick change with a locker diff. I don't know of any set up for the A banjo

This is where I got it:

http://www.hotrodworks.com/


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I posted this over on the ford barn but thought I'd throw it up here and see if anyone has any ideas...
I have a model B engine which I bought as a core to be rebuilt. It is a diamond block that has been re-sleeved back to standard bore and has bronze (or possibly copper) cam bearing inserts. It has not been magnafluxed or pressure tested or even cleaned yet. It has what looks very much like a crack running up from the water inlet boss. Because it is otherwise such a good candidate for re-build I thought I'd repair this crack by stop drilling the end of it, veeing it out and brazing it. Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem and could offer advice on fixing it?

 

Do you guys feel that a hand fuel pump pressurizing the stock tank is a viable alternative to a B fuel pump when running downdraft carbs?