Steve, I had one of the BFH tools and then bought a huge bolt cutter style crimper - it was poorly listed on eBay so I got it for pennies. I know how much they really cost so this one is never leaving the workshop. The hammer ones are great value and make a nice crimp but I prefer bolt cutter style as it is more versatile and can be used on the car rather than at the workbench.
I always check in on this thread and your progress but never post anything. Today I say amazing job on everything you've done !
Geoff I prefferad my old bolt cutter type too but it was £320 to replace !!! I never crimp cable ends on the car anyway.
Saturdays are great, the phone is quiet and nobody pops in so usually get lots done without the interuptions I needed to get my seats in so I could get my steering column set up and installed, I ditched the original seat covers and fitted some diamond ones instead Once I had the column in I could mount the pedal & master cylinder on the firewall, its now all fitted but needs a small bit of bracing welding in, I will do that in the week as I need to drag my tig bottle from the workshop to the front of the house Next job was to fit the Snow water injection tank & pump in the trunk, first thing i changed was the size of the water tank, the Snow original was pretty small, I had an old Jaz tank which was about 4 times the capacity, It has had a few holes cut in it but I can sort out adaptors to get the size down to suit the Snow lines. had to make up a new top for the tank as the original filler was missing, a bit of aluminium plate did the job and I will weld in a filer neck & probably a flip cap later next week. A holding strap was made from a strip of 1" x 1/8" stainless and a few holes drilled for asthetics. As the inside will have some thin black carpet on the rear firewall there would be no access to any bolts going through it so I spun up sme threaded aluminium bungs and used countersunk set screws through the firewall, once tightened I can still remove any of the bits bolted on the back. The Snow pump is a pusher so was mounted as close as possible to the tank, For some reason Snow say this pump is mounted straight up with the electricals at the bottom, This don't make sense to me as any water leaks will run straight into the electrics, not ideal !!! So I mounted it up the other way, this also keeps the inlet low.
Do you have any more Speedway tool demonstrations for us? I'm still laughing my ass off from the last one..... Your attention to detail is impressive!
WOW...the master cylinder set up is awesome, but more importantly I'll be steeling that idea you used for mounting things behind the carpet. I was going to weld studs on but honestly in afew areas I like this even better! Impressive as always! So when do we get to see the engine in there?
Wow Langy You are making great progress! I love the chrome rollcage and the firewall, really sets the car off, keep up the great work!!
Hopefully the motor will go in soon, I'm still waiting on a few bits to arrive from the U.S., we have an indoor show in Blackpool I'm attending with the car, if the bits don't arrive in time I have a spare engine I can slot in just for show........................ Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Langly, build is coming along nicely. Here is what I used to hold the insulation and other things on the firewall of my 57. Called binder posts. http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionC/C70.pdf We used a similar one of those punches to crimp steel cables at work.
Langy, Looking forward to when the new mill is in your Coupe ! Gonna be one real HHOOTTT RROOODDD ! ! ! Wish you all the best as you start your winter weather. I so do love being here in the Calif High Desert or with my darling Cindy in Tucson ! Dave
Finally got around to dragging my tig bottle to the front of the house so finally welded in the pedal/master cylinder strengthening plate I had made a few days ago. Once welded in some black epoxy was brushed on. Next job was to cut a 1/8" ply firewall panel (forgot to take a pic) this was then covered in black carpet, the various electrical gizmo's we then reattached. The gizmo's were placed to be practicle and easily reached for any adjustments. Top left is the digital MSD ignition box, top right is the Rebel Wiring fuseblock, bottom left is the Aeromotive digital fuel pump controller, bottom right is the Snow water injection controller. The black carpet reall tidys it all up. While sorting out the various wires I got to thinking where was I gonna put my indicator switch, I didnt want it on the column and couldn't hide it under the seat like I usually do, decided to take it apart and see if I could squeeze it into my switch box between my seats. Once the casing was removed I found there was just enough space for it, Its tight but it goes in ok. Wiring next
Langy, The details abound on this Willys Coupe ! It is very neat and very well organized. Good job ! Dave
Thanks mate, yours is certainly coming on too..................... ... Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Still been slogging away doing wiring, everything is in a slightly different place on my Willys as I can't reach the dashboard once strapped in so a fair bit of the wires in the Rebel kit needed extending, plus there were relays to add and a fair bit of extra wiring for the various pump controllers etc etc, plus of course with this being a glass car everything has to have its own earth, these were extended with modern thinwall cable as its easier to hide, its very useful stuff, not expensive and usually half the thickness of standard cable I got the switch panel finished and in position, the mount is a 1.5" stainless 90 degree bend cut in half and rewelded 180 degrees in the other dircetion. base plate is 2mm stainless. I know there are some that expressed an interest in the wiring so heres a tip, this is the rear light wiring connectors, the earth (white wire) has the female terminal and the tail light and brake/flasher has the male terminals, this stops them ever being connected wrongly. A common problem on fiberglass cars and cars with a wood floor is getting cables through them with grommets, this is my solution, I holesaw the required size hole then use the offcuts from holesawing on other jobs, these are 2" x 16swg stainless, then I just redrill the correct size hole for the grommet and secure with 3 self tappers into the floor. The cables get hidden behind panels where possible but the ones to my main switch panel have to travel under the carpet so are just stuck down with racers tape, once the carpet is in place they are undetectable due to the thinwall cable, I route them side by side. Finished the wiring today and switched and tested all the circuits and everything works great, At last the car has a pulse [] .
Langy, are your taillights LED type reproductions? If they are, do they flash properly when the turn signals are activated? I have heard some applications need a resistor in series.
No mate, they are good old fashioned bulbs. Your right about the LED ones though, they don't put enough load on to activate the flasher unit, easy fix just change it for a electronic flasher unit.
Haven't checked in for a while Steve. Fantastic stuff, your self-made through-the-frame brake fitting (genius!), all your plumbing work is tits, the blue epoxy, the BFH, on and on and on. Very entertaining. Earth=ground, cool.
Very neat build, your a very talented fabricator. I always look forward to your latest photos. Thanks for sharing. Dave
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