30 model A motor mount posistion (no body yet)

[bigvinny]

starting on 30 roadster project, gonna box frame, do suspension and steering and would like to have drive train all set in. my problem is budget and limited garage space dictates that I cant buy body untill Im ready to install it. any info in placement of my 52 flat v8 with 3 speed box will be appreciated. THANKS

[cayager]

here we go again. i would say if i had a frame and no body, and knew where the radiator sat, i would leave enough room for the fan to clear,maybe a couple inches, mount the engine, and worry about the firewall later

[porknbeaner]

Originally Posted by cayager

here we go again. i would say if i had a frame and no body, and knew where the radiator sat, i would leave enough room for the fan to clear,maybe a couple inches, mount the engine, and worry about the firewall later

Good advice.

I was going to say look for the cowl mount holes and make the back of the engine even with the cowl mount holes than modify firewall to suite.

But cayager's advioce is probably better then mine.

[Koz]

The Tardel/Bishop book gives the dimensions for the mount locations. I don't have a copy but I'm sure at least half the guys on here do!

[Don's Hot Rods]

It is really not a great idea to build a frame and chassis without the body there to slip on and off occasionally to check fit and clearances. I know you said you have space and other limitations, but I can't imagine even beginning to build a car without the body sitting right there. No matter how you measure and check, something will come up and bite you, IMO.

Don

[bobscogin]

Originally Posted by Koz

The Tardel/Bishop book gives the dimensions for the mount locations. I don't have a copy but I'm sure at least half the guys on here do!

Those dimensions aren't carved in stone. Too many variables for each different build. I wouldn't recommend finalizing mount position until the body is on, and steering box and radiator are in place.

Bob

[jimbousman]

Originally Posted by bobscogin

Those dimensions aren't carved in stone. Too many variables for each different build. I wouldn't recommend finalizing mount position until the body is on, and steering box and radiator are in place.

Bob

Agree - can't fit an engine between a firewall and a radiator without a firewall and a radiator.

[skwurl]

Find a cowl to mock up with. They are usually pretty inexspensive

[Rickybop]

Originally Posted by skwurl

Find a cowl to mock up with. They are usually pretty inexspensive

Always best to have the body...but I'd say this is the best answer for your purposes...except for placement of the rear axle. But with some measurements from another Model A, you can do it. Welcome, and good luck.

[bigvinny]

Ive ordered theTardel/Bishop book and am waiting for it to arrive and hopfully that will. help. I may try to get a rad and vega box and go from there. Thanks

[Hitchhiker]

If you follow the BT book measurement for measurement it will be wrong and your car will not fit together.

[Pop-Rodder]

The T/D book is based on a '32 frame...keep that in mind. If you are using a Model A frame...the measurements won't work.

[Hitchhiker]

Originally Posted by Pop-Rodder

The T/D book is based on a '32 frame...keep that in mind. If you are using a Model A frame...the measurements won't work.

Ummm....you might want to double check that.....looks like an A frame to me.....

[Lucky77]

Originally Posted by Pop-Rodder

The T/D book is based on a '32 frame...keep that in mind. If you are using a Model A frame...the measurements won't work.

No, the book is based on a Model A frame. They suggest a 32 as an acceptable alternative while still remaining an AV8.

[bobscogin]

Originally Posted by Pop-Rodder

The T/D book is based on a '32 frame...keep that in mind. If you are using a Model A frame...the measurements won't work.

Did you mean T/B? The one I have, "How To Build A Traditional Ford Hot Rod", uses a Model A frame for the build. Blue '29 roadster, red interior on the cover. Is there another one?

Bob

[Pop-Rodder]

Ah....you're right. After looking again, I see they did use the A frame....in that case...never mind my last post. Brain farts.....

[Koz]

I beg to differ! I've used the B/T layout along with the Wescott drawings that everybody bitches about to build at least two dozen "A" frames running flattys and they all fit up perfect. My old blue roadster was built to take a flatty but I ran it with the 283 bolted up to the B/T located '39 box using the same mounts, no problem.

[Vergil]

If you aren't going recess the firewall then wait until you get an old radiator and cowl for mockup. It is a tight fit without guessing where something should fit but doesn't. Save yourself work and frustration. But this is only my 2¢ ....

Vergil

[Von Rigg Fink]

Originally Posted by Don's Hot Rods

It is really not a great idea to build a frame and chassis without the body there to slip on and off occasionally to check fit and clearances. I know you said you have space and other limitations, but I can't imagine even beginning to build a car without the body sitting right there. No matter how you measure and check, something will come up and bite you, IMO.

Don

completely agree with this

patience grasshopper..get the body than go from there

[chopt top kid]

Originally Posted by Vergil

If you aren't going recess the firewall then wait until you get an old radiator and cowl for mockup. It is a tight fit without guessing where something should fit but doesn't. Save yourself work and frustration. But this is only my 2¢ ....

Vergil

Why is it that so many HAMBers have this phobia about recessing firewalls??? Especially a flathead??? The '52 8BA is not going to have the same dimensions from the the motor mounts to the leading edge of the fan as the 59AB used in the Bishop/Tardel book so the mounts have to be moved accordingly. Set the radiator and locate the engine to fit. You can always recess the firewall when you mount the body, or you can spend a small fortune trying to find the identical parts used in the B/T build.

Originally Posted by Koz

I beg to differ! I've used the B/T layout along with the Wescott drawings that everybody bitches about to build at least two dozen "A" frames running flattys and they all fit up perfect. My old blue roadster was built to take a flatty but I ran it with the 283 bolted up to the B/T located '39 box using the same mounts, no problem.

I have to agree with Koz on this one. I haven't found any "bad dimensions" in the B/T or on the Wescott drawings. When building a hot rod one must learn to "adjust accordingly" depending on what parts you're using and what you're trying to accomplish. Remember folks, this ain't no "kit car", but the B/T book is as good as it gets...