SDRA Dragster For The Coast Build Thread

[dragsled]

Originally Posted by old sparks

Tom , could you tell me what mods the tech crew wanted you to make. Since I`m at the roller stage, it would help me alot.

I'd like to know also ,I saw your steering setup with the spacer between the drag link and the steering arms, looked like a good idea but was wondering if it would pass tech, i'm getting ready to heat and bend my arms to clear my wishbones , but if that will pass and it seems to work OK, I'll go that way , Thanks Tim Jones

[Old28]

bobw & injected27 -- Most all the problems were small items.

1 -- Securing fuel lines with "aircraft quality" stainless clamps along the frame, no water hose clamps or tie wraps.

2 -- Need a second SS hose clamp on water overflow can.

3 -- Need to clamp rear brake line on the housing, no tie wraps.

4 -- Need to relocate fuel regulator to the front by the tank, it must be no closer than 6" from the flexplate & cover. Going to mount near the fuel pump.

5 -- Need to drill out the Rosetta welds on the front loop were we sleeved it and reweld the Rosetta holes and "DO NOT GRIND THEM", I new that they would get me on that, not a big fix.

The main chassis, front end, rear end, steering, shifting, trans cover passed with no problem. There was no tech steering problem, I just need to tighten up the play in the VW box or replace it with a rebuilt one.

I am going to rebuild the brake lever system and replace master cylinder with a Wilwood unit.

Pictures of the area's that need fixing are shown below.

Will post fix pictures in a few weeks with any luck.

[Old28]

old sparks -- You can read the above reply that lists the item's that need to be changed. Not a big deal at all.

The biggest item was welding. Just remember no grinding of any welds in the driver area ( more or less from the firewall back ), our tech really looks at that stuff.

Just a note, fuel & brake lines need to be solidly secured (no tape or tie wraps) any wiring can be tapped or tie wrapped.

Also try to route your fuel line so it is 6" plus away from the flexplate cover area.

Another thing is make sure that when you build your cage that you have the required 3" clearance from the front of the helmet to the face of the front hoop. They tagged 6 open wheel cars last year on this rule and they measured mine with a helmet on Saturday.

I will post pictures of the changes in a few weeks when I get them done.

The nice thing is that when you get through our tech at Famoso in Bakersfield you will be able to pass tech most any place.

[Old28]

dragsled -- Tim, I am not a fan of heating spindle steering arms, I know it is done a lot, but not for me. The 1 3/4" spacers you see on the bottom are installed with grade 8 bolts and heims and work real well. The small round spacer on the left side spindle top is cut on an angle to help the front steering arm heim run more true. Again with grade 8 bolts. I have used this system before on my race cars and had no TECH issues.

What are you building? Have you started a build thread? Thanks Tom

[dragsled]

Thanks Tom , I really didn't like the idea of heating them either but until now thats what I had heard what was done back in the day so to speak, My build thread is my signature just click on it to open thanks again Tim Jones

[Old28]

Tim, a couple of close up pictures.

[dragsled]

Thanks a bunch Tom , another one of the many odds and ends figured out, thanks again Tim Jones

[old sparks]

Thanxs Tom. I hope you didn`t take offence to my request. A funny note, both the funny car and the altered had almost everything attached with tie wraps. go figure?

[Old28]

old sparks -- Dan, I'm with you, I have raced at Famoso for over 30 years in open wheel FM dragsters and altereds running 7.50 - 10.60 and have always used HD tie wraps and black electrical tape on all my lines and never had a tech guy say a word, Go Figure.

I will say that NHRA & the track tech are looking at these HAMBster car (both HA/GR & SDRA) real hard and don't want to cut use any slack. Meeting the altered chassis spec for cars that run 11.25 - 15 sec is a bit of overkill, but "It IS THEIR PLAY GROUND" so we got to work with
them.

No offense, I will post anything that can help others with their build. I wish I could get it right the first time, but that life.

[bobw]

Tom, thanks for posting pics of the details. You pointed out a few things I need to address.

I'd sure hate to tow to a dragstrip hundreds of miles away and not be able to run because mine wouldn't pass tech. So, this kind of information is very valuable.

[Old28]

bobw --Glad to show pictures and I hope they help others. Anyone tells me that they built their car and it was perfect the first time is full of (you know what).

Worked on my steering box today, I had about 2" of play on the 10" steering wheel before any sign that the tires moved. I was able to tighten up the gear adjustment in the box and I added a new larger bolt with a tighter clearance were the shaft extension is bolted, the first hole was junk and most of the play was there. Now I have about 3/4" max play, I will try it and see if I can live with it. I run a hex quick connect and the are a little on the loose side and some of the play comes from that connection.

Then I got started on the brake system next, tested the (I don't know what brand) master cylinder and it works fine, checked the lines & flow to the wheel cylinders, all OK. Will start working on the peddle mounting tomorrow.

Pictures of the changes when I am done.

[Old28]

Well I have most all the little tech item's taken care of (still need to get the tig welding done). Before I started on their stuff I wanted to dry and get my steering a little tighter and redo my brake peddle mounting system.

As I told bobw above, Worked on my steering box today, I had about 2" of play on the 10" steering wheel before any sign that the tires moved. I was able to tighten up the gear adjustment in the box and I added a new larger bolt with a tighter clearance were the shaft extension is bolted, the first hole was junk and most of the play was there. Now I have about 3/4" max play, I will try it and see if I can live with it. I run a hex quick connect and the are a little on the loose side and some of the play comes from that connection.

After talking with old6 at the race a few weeks ago along with him trying the car on for size it was clear that I needed to make some changes. The two main problems were the shaft could come out of the master cylinder and the peddle mounting pin was flexing when you got on the brakes. The pictures show the changes better than I can talk about them, but this is the short version. Build a new 3/4" CM actuator shaft, added boot to master, built a pin support to take out any flexing, install a free peddle stop & a spring to bring the peddle back to start position. Works real nice, no pin flex at all and I have about 2" throw at the peddle top. I still need to build a new peddle, need to try this first on my street.

Know for the Tech Item's, Installed T-Clamp on the water overflow tank, Moved the fuel regulator from the fire wall to the front and re-plumbed the system, Installed T-Clamps to the fuel lines & back axle brake lines, But a second spring on the carbs (must have 2 at carbs even if you have 1 on the peddle.

If the world is right at the next race I should be through tech OK.

[Old6rodder]

Looks a whole lot more rigid on the brake linkages. Yeah, I know, I'm a raving paranoid in that area.

The rest of your work's looking righteous too, should please even the most discriminatory (OK, make that "discriminating" ) tech.

So, lesseenow, a picture's worth 1,000 words.
So, that was a 13,000 word diatribe that you attached?
Thanks for the pictures.

[Old28]

Ya Dick, I think you would be more confident when using the brake system as it is now. There is no flex in the mounting pin and with it braced to the front down tube, it ain't going any where. The main problem with the shaft moving out of the master was that there was no stop when you let off the peddle. I was able to take 1" off the bottom of the peddle shaft, so I have 8" on top & 1 1/4" bottom. That's all I can do until I build a new peddle shaft. I want to see how it works first. Thanks for the help at the race as two old farts (old28 & old6) is better than one when working out the kinks.

[Old28]

Got a little more done today. The new soft plugs are in the head and sealed good, filled the system with water and tested, no leaks.

I changed the jets in the two 94 carbs from 54's to 51's and ran the motor to get some heat in it, sounds better, not so rich. Both the water system and the newly plumbed fuel system worked great. Motor idles about 700 RPM (just a guess, no tac yet). I need to install a longer screw to adjust the linkage when setting the idle.

With the fresh oil and filter in I ran the motor for about 5 min and was able to test the powerglide & converter, able to go through the gears and spin the tires. All worked good and the rear end sounds fine. I need to raise the RPM 100 as it pulls down a bit to much when it is in gear at idle.

Maybe a street test in a week.

[Old6rodder]

So, together we're an old '34?

Street test? ......... V I D E O ! ! !

[bobw]

Tom, sounds like you are getting that puppy dialed in.

Time for some action shots.

[Old28]

old6 -- Ya Dick, We both wish we were an "old 34" again.

I have no video camera to shot test runs and post them. Also I am not the best with all this computer stuff but I will talk to to the TEN YEAR OLD KID that lives across the street and see if he can post it on You Tube with his new IPad. I sware if your over 15 years old, your out of the loop these days.

bobw --Bob, I will be happy just to drive it up & down the street after all this time. We will get some kind of pictures.

[OBFB HA/GR]

Hey Tom, if I remember right, Dick(Thingie M)was having an issue running real lean,1st Eagle Field meet, turns out to be a bad seal under the manifold adaptor, so we used some Aussie knowhow and ran a 1/16 drill thru the mains to get some fuel into it. Check them out and I'm sure you see they are huge. I bet you can't wait to see how angry she is under load. Great build too by the way. Nigel.

[Dolmetsch]

Glad to see other SDRA cars. I am the only one here so I have to run any other FEDs that show up at Picton Airfield. Still can run with them though despite runnning a 1962 Valiant slant six. All the best on your build and getting through tech. I got a hard time here too at the local track but I had built my car with rule book in hand and did tech cars back in the day when NHRA sanctioned Mohawk Dragway so I knew what was good. I keep an NHRA rule book with me in the truck everywhere I go. It seems when you have something a bit unconventional you become the tech guys target. The metal clamp seems like overkill to me also. However my brake lines are so short no clamps were needed. I do have a steel clamp on my fuel lines. Usually if you to comply even to seemingly unreasonable requests they eventually leave you alone. I am in my 6th year with this car and tech is no longer an issue.
Don