Installing a gambino notch. The problem is the guy before me installed a s10 rear end with lowering blocks before I got the car. The axle looks a little too far forward to me. Do any of you guys have a measurement off a point of the frame for the original axle position. Thanks.
It has factory springs. From my measurements with the body off of the frame the rear rivet on the factory bumpstop is close to center of rear wheel fender opening.
Yes- but the factory axle perches were offset... So the locating pin on the springs is forward of centre. Sorry mate, I can't remember exactly how much... but when I dropped my camaro rear end in it was something like 1/2 out and 1 1/4" forward. I still have the old rear, if you need me to put a tape to it, I can. It's dark now though... so it'll have to be tomorrow...
Hey, there is a thread on here by alex gambino where they are notching a 52 (i think) chevy. In the video he does on the thread, he mentions that the body mount hole that is oval on top and round on bottom side--From the bottom hole it is 3" forward. Might look for that article and watch the videos. He mentioned to me on a facebook post that bumpstops were not center.
Thanks guys I will check out the video. Also left a message with Alex. At least got the notches tacked together tonight.
I always thought the spring bolt is offset to the front 1 1/2". I suppose 1 1/4" might be close enough, but as a previous poster noted, the wheelbase is 115", so you could set the front wheels very straight and measure from the spindle center 115" to the rear. Or, simply center the wheel in the wheel opening.....when it looks right, that's the place for it. Ray
Update on axle position. The previous owner had installed the s10 axle with aluminum blocks in the stock location which is wrong. I had noticed that it looked too far forward when the body was on but didn't take any measurements. At this point the body mount holes are the only reference points I have because the body is off the frame and I removed all of the original front suspension. The new notches should rest against the rear seat support which is 10 inches from the closest mount hole. Then I dropped a plumb line from the same mount hole and a measuring tape in the wheel opening and eyeballed the relation between these two points. When I talked to Gambino he said I was on the right track. They did the same thing on their 1950 non tradional frame build. In my case the axle is currently about 2inches too far forward. I have been busy and haven't been able to get out to the barn and work. I should be able to post some more pics tomorrow night. If your body is on the frame this all will be easier, just measure the wheel opening and put your axle in the center.
you cant just center the rear end and call it done. You have to keep in mind tire height and wheel tub clearence. Judging by the notch it looks like you want to lay out.Also the further forward you go , the more you have to cut out under your back seat for driveline clearence. I am not 100% sure on 49-52, but on 53-54 the rear end doesnt sit dirrectly on top of the pins. It actually sits about 1.5 inches behind it because it has a weird lookin pad with the u bolts that go through it and the rear end actually pivots on top of that. let me know if u need a pic, I dont have it but I can get under my 54 real quick.
Godswill, Did you move the rear on yours? I did some quick measuring last weekend, and It only looked like mine was off by maybe an inch with the stock rearend. I was trying to do it with a tape and t-squares due to time, but I may get serious and use the plumb bob soon. Actually wondering if I am putting to much thought into this subject!
I have done this on a 40, 48, and 51 chevy. They all were between 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 depending on how wore out your springs are and the weight of your body. I also always take the wrap off the springs and look for the wear from one spring rubbing on the other making a ridge, which I grind away if not to bad and then round and bevel the spring that rubbed it in the first place. Alot of different coating to then put inbetween the leaves to smooth out your ride. I have used graphite paint sold by john deere for grain wagons and it worked good, but you get the picture.
we always center the axle in the wheel opening i did my chevy with the body off the frame and we did the 50 chevy frame the same way between body monuts on frame and body mount holes on the body you should be able to get it dead on its only measuring measuring measuring good luck!!! here ya go i would put the top bar to the front of the axle like i link # 2 & 3 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152076 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394429 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293280 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202220 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194332 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305649 this one is a ford http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394891 Subject: Re: rear shocks shock # 37078 is best then # 59304 or # 37243
I made my own housing mount so thtthe rear end would sit just right. U have to reuse the stock front u bolt to hold it down and the regular aftermarket u bolts for rear end.
Got the notch finnished yesterday. Yes you are right about notch placement. I measured mine so that it will be the rear seat support which is about 10" from the body mount to the rear of the seat or the front of the notch. Also made multiple measurements from parts of the body to fender opening center and marked them on the frame. After all of this I was still unsure so I continued to weld up the Gambino notches and slept on it. The next day I decided to push the body over the frame and drop plumb lines through some of the body mount holes to aline it to the frame eve though the body is 39" off the ground on a cart. I also dropped a line that I taped in the center of the fender opening. Just want to make sure my wheel is close to center of the opening. The lines in the pics look alittle off because the front of the body is a few inches low on the cart. Here are some pics.
More pics of the final notch. Frontend parts should be here this week. Im gonna get it together weld the motor mounts and then work on the back again setting the 4 link up. Also included a pic of my 20 year old welder, I put a new ground on it and some new plugs, works like new also added a wrap from my shop Henson Signs and Graphics to cover the worn out paint. Thanks for all of the comments and help.
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