I scrapped about six blocks that looked like this, and still have four or five motors to tear down to see if they are any good. Non of them B motors...you'd figure in a stash of about 15 motors the old guy would have at least had one.
Hello Banger friends! I'm about to drill my first model B crankshaft for lubrication to the rods. I've set up my drill jig at 30 degrees and it looks like I'll work fine. But I have avauge memory of someone saying thay two of the oil passages should be drilled at a 34 degree angle. Anyone have any input on this? Thanks, Magnus
I THINK I saw an eBay auction not too long ago for an aluminum, Model A /B oil fill tube and cap . Am I dreaming or does anyone know if there is one that someone sells? Ron p.s. 68 F and rising here at lunch time, Bluto
More non Ford stuff. If this is against your religion please look away. Morton & Brett head pictures taken at my house by Zendog
If that is sin, I don't want to be a saint! I'm just looking forward to when you work on the C***y banger I know you have waiting. -Dave
Rich This isn't Ford Barn. I think everyone here is happy to see your efforts. Everything we see that's new might apply to a future project. It's good to see your project coming along
I'll look at anything! Actually I appreciate the chance to look at what you are doing. I enjoy looking at well made pieces. I even worked on my Case tractor a short time back! The last to show you I ain't prejudiced.
#1 cylinder has "soft springs" temporally installed so that I can turn the engine over with the head on and pushrods installed and adjusted. Then I can use my finger to push on the valves as the piston comes up on exhaust stroke. And check for clearance between the valve and piston top.
I drill both the A & B cranks at 33.75* for all the journals and centered on the rod journal and have not had any problems. I looked for a picture of my setup but couldn't find it, Pat
I know Rich knows this but to those wanting to check piston to valve..... please check 10 degrees before and after T.D.C. in addition to TDC as that is where the valve comes closest to the piston in many cases
BTW. How do you guys break thru the hardened surface on the crank pins? I tried to do it with a carbide tipped end mill. It did almost nothing to the crank before t went all dull. Not a high quality one though. I'm thinking maybe using a rotary file or a small grinder of some sort. Thanks, Magnus
I make a flat spot with a 3/16 4 flute end mill then a center drill. Use cobalt tools and slow the rpm compared to mild steel, use short pecks & clean the tool with an acid brush. I use unmixed synthetic coolant, or ATF will work. You have to have some lubricity but mainly keep the temperature down with the short pecks. What are you going to use for the drill bit? The moment of greatest danger is when the drill starts to break thru, be gentle. I've heard stories long ago that when the drill broke down inside the hole they would use Nitroglycerin to get it out. I'm sure the local Home Improvement would have some. Sounds like fun but dangerous! Pat
I'm lucky and have nitro spray for my screwed up heart . Never thought of using it to remove a broken tool I have used Crisco to lube center drill before. Agreed Go very slow
Rule of thumb for deep hole drilling, 1st. drill 3 diameters, 2nd. drill 2 diameters, 3rd. drill 1 diameter, each remaining drill no more than 1 diameter. I found in some cases 1/2 diameter. When you get into the material check the chips on the drill as you remove the drill from the hole, are they loose or do they show signs of packing in the flutes? If they have a tendency to pack then you might be taking too much out or have too heavy of a feed. I would use finger tips to feed with smaller drills. You must back the drill out until it clears the hole on each pass and, I would suggest, clearing the hole with air. I'm speaking of "jobber" drills. Cheap/inexpensive hardware drills should not be used The old "crankshaft" drill worked well for this operation, not sure if still listed under this designation. They had a 135* split point. There are deep hole drills but I have no experience with them in this material. I still prefer a Sulfur based cutting oil. Supposedly the Sulfur flows to the heat. I used to add 20 gallons of Sulfur base to 80 gallons of bright stock or pale oil in an 8 spindle machine This is based on deep hole drilling on automatic screw machines. Cobalt drills are stronger but have less clearance in the flutes for chips. When drilling in hard or tough materials the material can be abrasive and the drill will wear on the margins, the margin is the raised edge on the sides of the drill. The margin has a slight clearance ground into it and will wear tapering back from the cutting edge. This will cause a drill to generate more heat and can/will bind the drill and cause it to seize in the hole. Operators should check for wear at the margins. I cut the worn margin portion off and resharpen. I must admit I now have a hard time splitting the point because of worn eyes. Just don't get in a hurry. Most jobs are scrapped on the last pass.
I like suphur based oils too. What I've read about the sulphur based oil is when it gets hot it produces sulphur dioxide gas. Steel can not be welded in the presents of sulphur, which is what is happening when your drill gets stuck. There's a freemachining cold rolled steel with a few percent of sulphur in it, it can't be welded very well.
Couple things 1) If you didn't know, Bill - bcchopit, is one helluva nice guy. I called him last minute regarding an intake for my banger. While he couldn't get one done in my three day half assed emergency, he not only offered to ship me one of his intakes with a carb, he said to take a pick between running a single or duals to borrow for an upcoming show. It doesn't get much better than that folks. So with that, a very public THANK YOU for your offer. In a different note, does the timing pin actually fully drop in when finding tdc, or is it a very slight detent? I know how to find it the "Normal" way, my pin doesn't really seem to engage anything.
A trick I use is to "sharpen" (like sharpening a pencil) the end of the detent pin so that the dia. of the tip is about half of what it is stock. then it seems to drop into the detent hole in the cam gear easier. .
Very slight movement it will seem like you missed it! Back it up and try again. Some people drill it bit deeper when they find it. If you still have a fiber gear you otta replace it now anyway with an AL gear n drill it deeper fore you put it on.
small round dish type hole . pressure on the pin & (i use a breaker bar to turn my motor) turn the motor & you will feel it go in & out . find center from there . just go slow & pay attention . i use a timing light ! bill is correct .
I feel the small detent, I think I have it but didn't know if I should be seeing something different. Steve as far as the timing light, is the pully marked? Or did you get it at TDC and use reference points and mark the pully yourself?
i bought a nu-rex degree kit & marked my pulley @ tdc . works great , like a modern car . you can get the timing dead nutz .. steve **http://www.nurex.com/list_products.asp
Just Plain Bill's advice is right on the money, regarding deep holes. 135º split point drills are still available from industrial supply houses, like MSC. Called "Aircraft extension drills", they usually come in 6 and 12" lengths Herb
Hi, Some of you guys have some information on how to modify a model A crank to full oiling, I saw the last week a crank with some drill holes like the model B crank... I asked me how do that job...