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#21 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Springtown, Tx
Posts: 3,711
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I got a good buddy that will sell you one. Give him a call at 1-800-677-2524. Ask for Bud. He will make you as good a deal on one as anyone can. He's a HAMBer too.
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Just what I need......Another Nailhead! Makin it Git with Old Shit |
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#22 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Hopewell, N.J. ,Crossville,Tn.
Posts: 98
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I bought my metal from plateau metal sales in crossville tn. 800-468-0149 good
people . |
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#23 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central Ory-Gun
Posts: 4,382
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I bought a 45' x 102' x 19' high 'SteelMaster' a few years back. The building delivered was about $22k and the county regs for foundation required 122cy of concrete...your county rules will likely be different...
The same basic building is offered by a dozen different companies that just put their name on the bundle so shop around. On smaller 'steel arch' structures you can gain height by putting the steel on a 2-3-4 ft stemwall, but you'll likely need to get an engineer to stamp the plans. ![]() This building has over 15,000 5/16 bolts holding it together... .
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www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com Early Hemi Parts, Pieces, Tech Trans adapters for EarlyHEMI, Flat 6&8 and pre-62 A series http://www.discoverthenetworks.org/Articles/Hansen.pdf |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: somewhere in a fifth wheel.
Posts: 1,770
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If I can remember how to post a pic, here is mine ,just finishing it up now, 24x32 insulated and wired with tube heat, $11,200 all the work done by me.
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You laugh at me because I'm different , I laugh at you because you are all the same. |
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#25 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 172
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Quote:
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#26 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Worthington MN 56187
Posts: 734
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I had a 30x50 Cleary building[pole barn] with 11 ft side walls put up 2 years ago and the it cost me $11,600 built on my level site.30x50 5-6"thick concrete floor was about $5000 and the insulation R30 walls and R50 ceiling was another $2000.I bought a real good commercial 16x9 insulated overhead door and opener for $1200. I put a 20 ft Space Ray radiant heater in for about $1600 installed and lined the inside and ceiling with steel strong panel for $1500.Wiring was $750 and the bath room was anther $300-400. All said and done $24,000 a couple weekends and a little help from friends. I should have built it BIGGER !!!
Last edited by mark boltjes; 09-29-2010 at 06:36 PM. |
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#27 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 6,915
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Great info here guys. Thanks so much!
JH
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Yoga Pants & Mini Skirts |
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#28 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 497
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My 40x60 and 16 foot side walls, my property slopes down so had to bring in alot of dirt. The pad is 40x95 1 14x10 door 2 walk through and one 10x8 and plumming for bathroom $48,500.00
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Misc Odd Parts Assembled Recklessly |
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#29 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: May 2010
Location: lilburn, ga
Posts: 130
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I was going to build a garage using a prefab steel unit. I found out I was not allowed that type of building in my area. I ended up building a garage with concrete block. Check your local building codes before you get to far into your project.
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#30 |
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FNG
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 14
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I just finished my building about a year ago. 40x40 with 16' side walls. Purchased the building from Empire steel buildings, and have been very happy with them. Got it with full insulation, full interior wall panels, 1 10'x10' roll up door, 1 14'x16' roll up (both insulated), 1 walk in door, 1 3x3 window, 1 3x3 wall vent, and 1 10' roof ridge vent. Total for the building was about $23k
I paid to have the dirt and concrete work done by a friend, which ended up being about $16k total, about $12k in materials. My slab is 6" thick with HUGE footings and a ton of steel, so I'm sure some would come out cheaper, but I wanted to be able to work on anything. I also paid the same friend to help me assemble the building. It took us some time, but definitely less than it would have taken us to build anything else this size. Almost everything was done by just the 2 of us. Total cost with everything was around 50-55k I think. Here's the full gallery of pics of the building construction. http://s579.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20SFR%20Shop/
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#31 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wingate N.C.
Posts: 642
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Build mine first a 50x60 then had to add on 40 x 100 and it's stick built! Don't want to know what i got in it but it does have a basement and a upstairs mancave ! Took 30 years to save for it and took me a year and a half to build doing most of it myself ! Built the walls 2x6 and insulatation to the hills ! My electric bill last month cooling it was $107.00 and it ran all month here in N.C. been hot and humid !!
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If it's not HAMERD then it's to high!! ![]() Now I have a Mercury body again! Ready to Chop ! Turn right no the other Right !!!! www.jjsrods.com |
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#32 | |
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FNG
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 43
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Quote:
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Now if you don't mind, I have some evil to tend to. |
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#33 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ft Worth Texas
Posts: 177
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I had this built in Ft Worth back in Feburary. It is 40x50 with a 24x40 carport. 12' walls. Turn key price including concrete..$50k
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#34 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 181
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I had this built by Blitz Builders 4 years ago:
![]() It's a custom-design 50'x56' with 12' side walls. It's split 1/3 workshop, 2/3 storage and has 4 overhead doors so you can drive through either side. (This is my second time around at building a garage/shop and I learned the hard way on the first one... the drive-through feature was my first requirement!) The crew Blitz sent to build it had it finished (less doors) in 3 days! The way they construct their pole buildings is that the site has to be graveled. They build the garage and then you pour the concrete into the floor area, which effectively surrounds the 'poles' in concrete. I went with Blitz because a friend has one that suffered storm damage and Blitz was super helpful in getting the components to him to make the repair in a matter of days. They also hooked him up with a contractor who made the repairs quickly and did excellent work. It paid off for me because I had a leakage problem with the roof after 2 years. They sent a tech to my site for 2 days, fixed the problem and didn't charge me one cent!!! The 'kit' was $33k including the price of erecting it. Excluding the cost of the land, I have about $60k in it so far, which includes the prep, building, electric service and concrete (including a huge driveway, which you can't see in the photo because you're looking at the back of the garage) and I figure I have about $15k to go before I'm finished. (I'm slowly doing the wiring, heat/AC and insulation myself). Last edited by Dave B.; 09-30-2010 at 07:07 AM. |
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#35 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Yakima Valley, WA
Posts: 15,437
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Here locally at least, the little nickle paper has a bunch of adds from different builders of these style buildings.
I think that the first thing a guy needs to do is find out what the local building codes allow and require. The prices seem pretty competitive between different builders and sellers here and probably are in most regions of the country right now. You might also keep an eye out for recent shop buildings at other houses in the area and find out who built them and how the owner likes the building.
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Definition of a "work car". One you have to work on all weekend so you can drive it to work the next week. |
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#36 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Mangakino ........ New Zealand
Posts: 2,844
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The Garage Journal
has 100 times more info than what is posted here. Well worth the trip over there. |
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#37 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 6,915
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Quote:
Thanks guys!
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Yoga Pants & Mini Skirts |
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#38 | |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Warrior, Alabama
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Building cost has so many variables. You really need to talk with a dealer and work out a quote on what you need/want. |
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#39 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oak Ridge, NC
Posts: 1,503
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I love my Morton building. It's 30X60. It has a wooden frame and metal exterior. They will build it to any stage you want. Since I was traveling and not able to do the work myself, I contracted most of it. They will come out and sit down with you, work up a spec and give you a quote for free. What I like about Morton is that you are dealing with the manufacturer, not some fly by night contractor who might be out of biz in a year or two.
www.mortonbuildings.com
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You Can't Put A Price Tag On A Good Time! Here is my 41 Plymouth build thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=498434 |
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#40 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Brodhead, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,566
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I was involved with pre fabbed metal buildings for over (40) years, but have been out of it for a while since I retired.
Here are some things to consider on a metal building vs/ pole building. *Cost will be at least 40% more for a metal building *Check your local codes. Due to the design of a metal building you need either full footings, or heavy rods across the width to tie the bottom of the frames together. *Many codes will require full footings and walls for metal buildings *Pole buildings only require a hole in the ground for main posts. Make sure it is FILLED with concrete. No cookie pads on the bottom. *Pole buildings can be completed without any concrete. You can do that later, or not at all. *Metal buildings come in many slopes, as low a 1/4-12 where most pole buildings are either 3-12 or 4-12 pitch, so you could match your house, or other buildings. *actual clearances in metal buildings is much more, expecially in the middle, as their frames have a sloping bottom, where pole buildings have a flat bottom chord. (Parallel with the floor) making it tough to moung a hoist, etc. *Many other things to look at, but like I said, both good, but like buying a Hemi, or a 4 cylinder Vega motor. Send me a private email if you need more info. Being your in TN, you may not have the zoning/code problems. Good luck! Am I against pole buildings....certainly not. I made a good living for many years in sales and project management. You are talking apples and prunes when comparing to pole buildings, (witch I also sold a bunch of) Nothing wrong with a pole building, and probably a great deal for a shop. You can insulate either one sufficiently Both will have good warantees Stay away from sliding doors. A pain in the ass and garbage. Also stay away from the low ballers (Menards, etc.) They are junk. Do NOT pay more than 10% down, and hold at least 20% back until building is 100% complete. Period. Butler, Varco Pruden, Star, and several others are all good quality, but you will pay more for Butler and Varco Pruden. |
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