After shopping a couple of tool outlets today and studying some el cheapo plans for an engine test stand I got the hots to own one. I'd like to use it for primarily for a small and big block Chevy, an Olds 303 and an early ohv Cadillac. I'm a lousy fabricator but I guess I could attempt a build on one. Am I better off buying one? Who builds a good unit that H.A.M.B.members would recommend?
http://www.hotstands.com/ We bought a test stand from these guys and are very pleased with it. It is very nice quality, looks like it will last forever. Everything is painted or rubber coated where needed. Had no missing parts, or problems with assembly. Even the shipping was fast.
The link worked for me, copied this from their site... Supertune Automotive Specialty Products 420 E. Main St. Taylors, S.C. 29687 Click here to get directions Phone Number: 1-864-292-9095 Email Address: [email protected] .
Here's one I made several years ago, very handy. A friend has his big block on it now. Hope to put my Hemi on it! Rich
I have built a couple of stands that allow the transmission hooked up and a radiator with gauges, gas tanks and mufflers , Ready for my next hot rod project install , kinda fun to start the engines about once a week or so,,, simple and easy build ,no plans,the one with the chevy 350 is a fresh build with a 700r4 finished , the one with the for 289 and c4 I bought off craigs list , runs great, did not have the radiator and gauges install yet when I took the photo, ,,
I need a stand for an inline 6er less the trans. I just need something thats moveable and will keep it off the floor. Anyone got any ideas? Prints or plans would be nice.
Superbeeme, I used to have what amounted to rectangular table frames with casters with the engine sitting where the table top would be. Think Walrus's Frame in the third photo with legs to raise the frame up to working height and engine mounts on the frame and a radiator mounted in front and a gauge panel mounted to the back. Like the front section of a T bucket frame with legs and casters on the bottoms of the legs. Made out of tubing, angle iron, channel iron or ? <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
About to finish up mine.Still got to get the radiator and a fuel cell.I had everything laying around the shop to build this.At this point I got $25 in this thing!!!
http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/leman.html Here is one I built out of wood. I had built this motor for use in the Nascar Returns to Lemans project by Christophe Schwartz and needed to break in the cam and run in the engine before crating and shipping to Germany. I got 23 minutes on it right here . I made a total loss water system for cooling with a restricted outlet from the upper thermostat housing. That other hose was hooked to my house garden hose. I fastened the whole deal down to the bench with ratchet straps. You can laugh and tee heee all you want but it worked perfectly. It never moved a smidgen even with the engine running above 2500 for the whole 23 minute deal (cept for the last 30 seconds at idle) My older brother was pres of the Antique and Classic boat club in Ottawa for a few years and i have done motors for him and knew most were mounted in wood and some boats were 70 and 80 years old. Since they had no problems I knew i wouldnt. (Rons boat The Hand Maiden, A show winner and cover boat on some magazines had been built in Boston in 1923 and the mounts and wood for the mounts was still good. ) Cost was minimal and operation was excellant with this wooden deal. Don
The simplest and most inexpensive engine "stand" I've ever seen was comprised only of two tubular legs that bolted to the motor-mount holes, and plates that bolted to the transmission mounting holes. The legs had a small plate welded to each end...one to bolt to the motor-mount holes, and the other for a castor. (wheel) The legs were pointing out to gain a good wide stance for stability. The larger plates, as stated, bolted to the rear of the engine using the trans-mount holes. A small piece of angle was welded to each plate to mount two more castors. The engine sat very close to the floor. This was for a V-8. A similar set-up could easily be adapted to a six. And if your six is a 235 with the U-shaped front mount, you might be able to use it and attach one castor to that, assuming there's enough clearance between the oil-pan and floor. Then do the two-castor thing at the rear. Rick
I bought a used 455 a few years ago, and the engine stand was a shopping cart! Someone had cut the basket off of the cart, and welded some motor mounts on the frame. It was all wired up with a switch and everything. I do not believe it was ever used, because it didn't seem sturdy to me!
My grandson and I are currently trying to finish up a test stand that is trailer mounted, but can be removed and loaded on sort of a docking dolly. I occasionally have friends want to break-in or test run a motor and I don't have enough extra real estate in my garage to have extra motors sitting around, so now I'll be able to easily take the stand to them. We've still got a few details to add like a control panel, electricals, gas tank, and battery mount, then we'll blow it apart for some paint. Drewski
cheaper pre-made. Been thinking about either buying one of these: http://www.mygaragestore.com/detail.aspx?ID=1011 or making my own. Haven't decided yet.
Made mine from an old engine stand after I bought a heavier one. Ran both Cad engines on it. Flex tubing and old mufflers quiet it and run gasses out.
Not nearly as pretty as most .... but very versatile ... I've had SB & BB Chevy's, 302 & 390 Fords, and a 360 Mopar on it ..... Its been stored outside in TN for 14 yrs. +.
I'd love to have one of these too..sadly all my engine stands are the car the engine is going to end up in
I noticed one guy mounting them up with the tranny in place. I would like to caution the others that you don't want to run them like that unless fluid is in the trans and at least a loop of hose on the cooler connections.I'm sure Walrus knows this, but since he didn't mention it I just want to save others from learning the hard way.
These moveable, keep it off the floor stands have always been known as modified grocery carts here in Texas. Hold up the world and never break. Just make the appropriate braces to keep the rear wheels from spreading if the cart has no crossbars, a few 2X4 and 4X4 blocks and a tie down strap and your'e there. We've had a blown 392 with torque flite trans on a cart carriage for the last 20 years and still move it now and then... one of these days? Now engine test/run stands are a different animal but stilll simple and easily constructed. Most car guys have extra gauges, switches, radiators, wiring and even the iron laying around to do the job. Most stands are adaptable to various engines or easily designed that way.
When I worked at Mopar City we used to test run all of our engines before we installed them in the customer's cars or before they came to pick them up. A few things that I remember... 1) We put the gauges and controls in FRONT of the engine on a panel over the radiator so that the exhaust & hot air from the radiator wouldn't be blowing right at you. My boss used to use a piece of all-thread with a shifter ball on it to push the throttle arm back so he wouldn't have to reach over the engine at all. The panel had the electronic ignition box, a good battery ground, tach & gauges, on/off switch, starter push button... 2) Use headers (zoomies, if you have them) and run the thing outside the shop. Keeps the heat, smoke & noise further away. (Not that the noise is a BAD thing, but...) 3) We made up a sheet metal drip pan for under the engines. Every now & then some hot fluids would mysteriously find their way out of the engine... And be sure to put a puke tank on the radiator. 4) A 4 speed bellhousing & flywheel are a lot easier to mount than an AT. No fluids to leak, lighter to maneuver, etc. (Of course if you're running the AT in the car, and don't want to invest in a bunch of bellhousings to trip on... We used them all the time, so it made it worthwhile to have them hanging on the wall in the shop.)
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