I finally got my doors hung last night. I used a hidden hinge kit from: Williams Welding Service A.K.A. T&J's 14770 Cooks Mill Road Humboldt, IL 61931 That's what it said in the instructions, I traded my stock hinges from a fellow H.A.M.B.er, I believe he got them in a trade, too. That's all the info on them I have. They seem well-made and plenty strong. Photos to follow.
This model car was originally equipped with suicide-style doors, and the shape of the front door jamb pretty much requires it. We started by making sure the vertical brace (rear doorjamb) was positioned so the hinge pin was 1 1/4" from the edge of the door, as per instructions. We then marked around the hinge pocket, which was bolted on the hinge strap, and cut the inner door for clearance. We also put the hinge pin as close to the door skin as possible, to allow the door to swing away from the quarted panel. The hinge assembly had to be placed as high as possible, because the bottom of the door curved in to meet the rocker panel, and the hinges should be plumb to allow smooth operation of the doors. Note how this door had been cut apart and tacked back together. This was the "good" door! I love grinding! A lot of credit is due to my pal Louie Speaks, he's a good fabricator.
The excess from the hinge pockets will be trimmed, and the pockets finish welded, after the quarter panels are finished. I did use a piece of sheet metal as a "dummy" to make sure the door will clear the quarterpanel. i wish I had more photos, but HAMBer Uncle Lee took these because we were too busy. I have since added more bracing after these photos were taken. The doors open and close very smoothly, and they stay open how ever wide you open them, they don't swing wide or close on their own. They also open almost 90 degrees, for easy entry and exit. I am really happy with how well this came out, I was afraid it would be a nightmare. Anybody who is contemplating doing this should definitely go for it! Just take your time, keep your level handy, and measure, measure, measure! Now to finish those quarterpanels...
I used almost the same set up on my doors. I have found that on a car that did not have suicide doors to begin with will need some add structure to the hinge side of the door to limit the flexing.
Although this car had suicide doors originaly, I cut of the door frames, which mwde them weaker, and I plan to brace them well.
I set the body back down on the frame and took a few pics. H.A.M.B.er Uncle Lee goofing around... I have also braced the back of the cab, and the sides behind the hinges. I have cut down the "Z" in the front frame rails, looks much better in my opinion. Ought to be low enough! This would be with the bags completely deflated. It will actually be a little higher once the body mounts are added, with rubber bushings between the body and frame. The air bags will give me 6" of travel, but it will still be driveable even if a air system failure occurs. And yes, some door gap adjustment is still in order... A shot from the rear. Hard to get good pics in a garage. I plan to put in body and bed mounts tomorrow night.
I am actually going to build a new frame for this car, more traditional with '32 rails, and a lot less "Z" in the front; I can't fit a decent sized radiator and still keep the grille shell level with the cowl. Poor planning on my part. I'm going to put my '41 Dodge cab on this frame, it's taller and a Mustang radiator will fit, no need for a custom unit. I haven't given up yet!
your rpu inspires me to get out and start back on my rpu. of course mines e an underslung setup and looks nothing like yours, but it still gives me inspiration to get it going again. ncg
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