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#101 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Atascadero, Ca.
Posts: 1,303
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Rolf, just awesome!!
Thanks for the sharing. |
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#102 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 198
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Absolutely sick! You buy all your supplies at a local upholstry shop or online?
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#103 | |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Petaluma, California
Posts: 219
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Quote:
I have a Mini Brute machine. It cost about $500. It's a decent import machine that will go through several layers of naugahyde and carpet in one pass. http://www.qualitysew.com/brute.html I also have a Juki LG-158 which is a long arm industrial machine (~29" throat depth). That one was a little more expensive ($2,000 used). However, I only use the Juki to do wide (>~36") rolled and pleated sections for seats since they fill up the small throat on the Mini Brute. I know doing your own upholstery seems intimidating. I bought my first machine and just played with it for a few years. I didn't get serious until I got a quote for $1800 and six weeks for the interior of my '49. So I decided it was time to go to the school of hard knocks. Yes, you will probably be unhappy with your first attempts. I sure was. But stick with it! With some practice you will get the results you want. I had to redo quite a bit before I felt it was acceptable. The nice thing is that unless you're starting out with leather, it's relatively cheap to screw up something, scrap it, and start over. Read everything you can about sewing to get the basics of seam construction and pattern layout. I highly recommend the following: Automotive Upholstery Handbook by Don Taylor How to Restore and Customize Auto Upholstery and Interiors (Motorbooks Workshop) by Dennis Parks My first job, '49 Chevy: My second job, '36 Ford: Chris |
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#104 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Nor Van, Canada
Posts: 803
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Awsome Rolf, you have given me great tips for my interior. Thanks
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#105 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: austin, tx, usa
Posts: 765
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Nice job!! It looks better than a lot of stuff I've seen come out of actual upholstery shops! Good job on the sail panels- that's a trouble spot that a lot of people can't figure out.
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#106 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3,248
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I would like to see how you did the seat. Rolf, this is fine!
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"Stops on a dime, gives nine cents change." Bill King |
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#107 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 6,915
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This is going in my tech file.
Rolf's top insert & interior posts are going to come in handy someday. Great work!! JH
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Yoga Pants & Mini Skirts |
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#108 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: SouthEastern PA
Posts: 15
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You make it all look so easy! Thanks for sharing everything you've done!
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#109 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Breese, IL
Posts: 630
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Rolf,
I didn't see this asked in the previous post and if I missed it I apolgize. How much of each type of material do you purchase/use? I was told I would need 5 yds for my seat alone . I noticed you didn't use any windlace. Any reason, or were you going to add it when you install the headliner?Thanks DeuceDog |
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#110 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Miles City, MT
Posts: 2,000
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Awesome job, very nice and timely work as I am trying to tackle this right now on my '54. Couple of questions:
what if anything did you use for insulation under the door panels? how are you cutting / putting holes in the black door panel material? everything I try looks like a beaver chewed it up... did you just wrap and glue the vinyl and pleated vinyl around the door panel? Do you wrap the corners or straight sections first? the door panel clips, did you put any kind of "backing" (to keep them from pulling out of the door panel???) between them and the door panel or just make a hole in the door panel and push the clip through thanks- |
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#111 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 16,484
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That things it tits..... awesome job as usual...
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I have gotten grief for pointing out that the white, speckled stuff on chicken shit is still chicken shit. I will continue to do so... Chili Phil |
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#112 |
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Alliance Vendor
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: ....in the Valley of the SUN.....
Posts: 5,617
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More than a ruler, you're a yard stick!
...sorry, that was dumb. |
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#113 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Newcastle, Oz-trail-ya....
Posts: 2,369
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Appoligies I'f I'm wrong (but I don't think I am), can this thread be added to TECH please?
Cheers, Drewfus
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"To win, you must first... be prepared to lose...."
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#114 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Woodinville WA USA
Posts: 1,812
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Sorry Dan, I didn't see that this thread got life again...
To answer your questions: what if anything did you use for insulation under the door panels? None under the door panels, but on all metal surfaces I used the OEM style self adheasive "lead" mat, works great. how are you cutting / putting holes in the black door panel material? everything I try looks like a beaver chewed it up... Sorry about the beaver, Wally...ahem, I use hole punches. did you just wrap and glue the vinyl and pleated vinyl around the door panel? Do you wrap the corners or straight sections first? Yes, and straights first. Practice on a couple of leftover pieces, and you will get the hang of it. the door panel clips, did you put any kind of "backing" (to keep them from pulling out of the door panel???) between them and the door panel or just make a hole in the door panel and push the clip through The clips clamps on the door panel thru the hole, as long as you use the right tool when removing them, you should be OK. Hope that helps. Rolf |
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#115 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Finland
Posts: 2,910
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How about moving this thread to tech archieves?
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Chevrolet '53 Kustom "Queen of Diamonds" |
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#116 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: INDY
Posts: 900
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Rolf, you do great work! Yours is one of the few cars I can say I wouldn't change a thing on. That almost NEVER happens. If my project turns out half as nice as yours I will be thrilled.
Would you have anymore info on your seat cover? I think I have a pretty good handle on the rest of the interior but the seat cover I don't have figured out yet. Your seat looks like a pro did it. U R amazing.
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FLATHEAD.... the other F word! "..back from victory over the Cretins at Sparta......make that the Spartans at Crete!" |
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#117 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hawthorne CA
Posts: 890
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Nice job, looks great, how do I get an appointment !!
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Don't "F%#K" with the "Shop Cat" Scott @ "Rice n Beans Garage" Formerly S&S Garage
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#118 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Denver
Posts: 154
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Assuming you're the same Rolf that used to live in Denver.. Congratulations! You were always one talented motherfucker. Oh, and by the way... fuck you for being such a talented motherfucker. Love you, bro.
--Bob
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If a guy with no legs showers at the gym, can he get athlete's nuts? |
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#119 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Woodinville WA USA
Posts: 1,812
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Quote:
Harry, I don't have any pictures of the seat work. Basically, I outlined the seat panels with a marker pen. Then I cut them right at the marker line. When I sewed them together, you loose about 1/4 to 1/2 inch all the way around, but that allowed for some stretch, and a wrinkle free installation. Hope that helps. |
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#120 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Forest Park IL
Posts: 10,124
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Did you ever get to the headliner?
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Hot Rod Hucksters . Hunnert Car Heads Up June 7-8, 2013 . Hot Rod Chassis & Cycle and Victory Speed Equipment . Django Studios |
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