Customs Traditional Custom work in progress

[Greasemachine]

I know there are some threads about traditional customs on the here, but I like to see what's getting build. Is there a future trend for real period correct customs?? It seems like there are tons of good hotrods out here, but on a custom people say 'I keep my hood close' or so. If you can't see it, it doesn't mean it isn't there...
I like to narrow the cars to the early years, 1935 to 1954, not that I don't like other years and models, or think they are less traditional. Just to make it simpler, not starting an argument.
If you don't know what I mean with traditional, here is my def. and I don't wanna start an endless tread about what is and what isn't.

No front clips
No Frame swaps, unless from the time period
No BAGS or hydraulics
No Mustang 2 stuff
No modern drive trains
No fuel injection
No power steering
No AC unless orig.
No big visible stereo systems
No LED lights
No tilted Steering

The world isn't perfect.. So I exclude some things like disk brakes, upgraded original suspension and steering, rearends like 9inch or so, 350's chevys might be hard to avoid, but the ideal would be a old engine.
Thats my general idea of this thread. People who like other stuff should not feel offended, there other threads. I just like to see some cool pics and stories about their build and get a positiv inspiration for other and to keep the trend alive.

Low budget or high end, mild or wild.

I start with my 41 Plymouth never ending project...

I bought it 2002 as a original no runner socal dessert car in a trailer park in Hemet.

[HeyyCharger]

Nice project love the HEMI!

Keep us posted, looking great!

Keep it Trad... Period!

HC.

[bubba67]

I love the Plymouth ! I hope this thread gets some traction as we NEED some more Trad Custom threads here on the HAMB.

[pimpin paint]

Hey Grease,

To your build list I'd add Traditional Metal & Paint,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

No squirt gun welds
No plastic filler used
No overcleared, overcut urethane paint jobs in colours that didn't exist in the build era
No goofy ''mail slot'' chops that no one could have driven on the street in the build era

I won't give ya the SBC default mode, as that motor didn't see production until 1955!

On the subject of traditional paint finishes- today we see many kustoms finished in urethane that's been overcleared, cut and polished, if you've ever seen a real nitrocellulose lacquer paint job parked beside an overcleared urethane you know they look nothing alike, it's like the difference between vinyl and leather

A great post that's been needed for some time!

" Life ain't no Disney movie "

[msalamanca]

Originally Posted by pimpin paint

Hey Grease,

To your build list I'd add Traditional Metal & Paint,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

No squirt gun welds
No plastic filler used
No overcleared, overcut urethane paint jobs in colours that didn't exist in the build era
No goofy ''mail slot'' chops that no one could have driven on the street in the build era

I won't give ya the SBC default mode, as that motor didn't see production until 1955!

On the subject of traditional paint finishes- today we see many kustoms finished in urethane that's been overcleared, cut and polished, if you've ever seen a real nitrocellulose lacquer paint job parked beside an overcleared urethane you know they look nothing alike, it's like the difference between vinyl and leather

A great post that's been needed for some time!

" Life ain't no Disney movie "

I do like this idea about the paint and body filler. I think more of the "tradish" guys need to focus on that>

[shoebox1950]

Originally Posted by pimpin paint

Hey Grease,

To your build list I'd add Traditional Metal & Paint,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

No squirt gun welds
No plastic filler used
No overcleared, overcut urethane paint jobs in colours that didn't exist in the build era
No goofy ''mail slot'' chops that no one could have driven on the street in the build era

I won't give ya the SBC default mode, as that motor didn't see production until 1955!

On the subject of traditional paint finishes- today we see many kustoms finished in urethane that's been overcleared, cut and polished, if you've ever seen a real nitrocellulose lacquer paint job parked beside an overcleared urethane you know they look nothing alike, it's like the difference between vinyl and leather

A great post that's been needed for some time!

" Life ain't no Disney movie "

What have YOU built?

I see you chime in a lot with your "wisdom" and I would enjoy seeing some of your projects that put all of that wisdom to good use...not trying to fling shit, just sayin...

[shoebox1950]

Built with "squirt gun welds," a 350, a little bit of bondo, and new paint materials...so it's not a "real" kustom...don't look too closely...

I guess Dick Dean should have just quit when he switched to mig and "plastic body filler"...shame on him!

BTW, that is a bitchin' Plymouth in the opening post.

Rob

[s55mercury66]

[QUOTE=pimpin paint;7766467]Hey Grease,


On the subject of traditional paint finishes- today we see many kustoms finished in urethane that's been overcleared, cut and polished, if you've ever seen a real nitrocellulose lacquer paint job parked beside an overcleared urethane you know they look nothing alike, it's like the difference between vinyl and leather



Got to agree with this comment 100%, not that I don't like urethane.

[Greasemachine]

Thanks Flatheadfreak! When ever I tell people that I put a Hemi in my 41 Plymouth they get all excited and think about the 392. After I tell em its 276 53-54 Desoto they give me that look, really? For the same money I dumped into that 276 I could have had a 392 build. But I really like the early look of the 276 and size wise is seems to be just made for my car. I didn't have to cut out or modify the inner fender. Tiny changes to the firewall hump, where the flat six tucked in. Other than that, it is more period correct. I didn't wanna race that sled either. Just an reliable strong cruiser for street and freeway and a piece of art to look at. People who build Hemis told me, with my 10:1 compression mild cam and intake carb setup I should have almost 300hp ( Hemi hp, they are different!???) Plenty I guess anyway. If I would have used a flat six with some cool speedparts the car would have been already done by now. considering saving all that extensive fabrication work. If I have another one I would go that way. Maybe..Building a Mopar is not dropping in Speedway bold on parts... But at the end, the reward is gonna be big.

[magoozi]

[QUOTE=s55mercury66;7795207]

Originally Posted by pimpin paint

Hey Grease,


On the subject of traditional paint finishes- today we see many kustoms finished in urethane that's been overcleared, cut and polished, if you've ever seen a real nitrocellulose lacquer paint job parked beside an overcleared urethane you know they look nothing alike, it's like the difference between vinyl and leather



Got to agree with this comment 100%, not that I don't like urethane.

lacquer has a lot of depth, a good one you can brush your teeth in it, but it does'ent hold up in the sun and requiers a lot of maintanence and wax, a two stage urethane has a lot of shine but no depth, guys started useing clear in the late fifties on candy apple paint jobs, single stage enamels were used in the forties, it all depends what era you are trying to imulate.

[skyrodder]

My old one, lowered with photoshop

[skyrodder]

The maroon one in front belongs to my club brother, talk about traditional outside/inside and under the hood

[1951Streamliner]

Check out the 1948-52 New Old Style Kustoms thread.

It is full of some really traditional customs.

I love traditional customs.

[K13]

Guys the OP wants traditional custom builds (in progress shots) on here not pictures of finished cars

[Greasemachine]

Hey pimpin Paint, I agree with the paint, but it can be really hard with modern paints. We were painting a friends car and he wanted the original poly single stage metallic on his 49 Olds. We used the finest metallic and still gave the car that modern look. The color and the paint appeal was ok. We ended up using single stage solid color.

Any more cool builds out there?

On another thread about 41 to 48 Fords we posted pics of my friend Magoozi's 46, when he took out the Mustang 2 frontend and put it back to I beam.

Here is a pic again.

[pimpin paint]

Originally Posted by Greasemachine

Hey pimpin Paint, I agree with the paint, but it can be really hard with modern paints. We were painting a friends car and he wanted the original poly single stage metallic on his 49 Olds. We used the finest metallic and still gave the car that modern look. The color and the paint appeal was ok. We ended up using single stage solid color.

Any more cool builds out there?

On another thread about 41 to 48 Fords we posted pics of my friend Magoozi's 46, when he took out the Mustang 2 frontend and put it back to I beam.

Here is a pic again.

Hey Grease,

On the subject of early poly type single stage mixes, next time try the automotive restoration sites, the antique & classic ones, not muscle cars! Good formulas for early mixes are out there, but you gota hunt 'um. Most automotive paint stores only know what's in their computer, and won't be much help.
IMO, a ''traditional kustom'' with a colour from the 60's-2000's looks like a hooker in a prom dress.

" Do not drink the Kool-Aid "

[magoozi]

Originally Posted by Greasemachine

Hey pimpin Paint, I agree with the paint, but it can be really hard with modern paints. We were painting a friends car and he wanted the original poly single stage metallic on his 49 Olds. We used the finest metallic and still gave the car that modern look. The color and the paint appeal was ok. We ended up using single stage solid color.

Any more cool builds out there?

On another thread about 41 to 48 Fords we posted pics of my friend Magoozi's 46, when he took out the Mustang 2 frontend and put it back to I beam.

Here is a pic again.

I would call my car traditional, but not period correct because of the engine, tranny , and disc brakes, the engine is a 302 with early 289 accesories, the 264 came out in late 63, and is basicly the same block as a 302, the other sin is the gennie shifter, but this car is replacing my 39 deluxe sedan as my daily driver and car for long distance shows. the circa I am shooting for is 1959 to 1964.

[magoozi]

I think the main objective is to inspire guys to build more traditionaly stlyed customs , so I agree with grease machine, if you can afford to build a 100% period correct custom , more power to you, but it is not cheap, for starters , the number of guys that still gas weld and hammer weld , do lead work and peck and file , you can count on one hand , and they are not cheap and this type of work is labor intensive, if you are rebuilding a famous custom that you plan to take to pebble beach, than you can only use n.o.s. parts , original nuts and bolts, n.o.s. tires, wirering, voltage regulators, real tuck and rolls, vintage nalgahyde, on and on.
Same go'es for the paint, a good 16 coat lacqere can out shine a two stage paint and has more depth, if you are lucky enough to be able to buy lacqere , more power to you, in california, a shop can only buy water based paints now, and again lacqere is labor intensive, you have to colour sand between each and every coat. besides lacqere did'nt became popular till the fifties, enamel was the paint of choice in the fortys, so it all depends on what era you are trying to inmulate.
I do think it is important to pick an era or period for our cars and try to stick to it,customizing stlyes changed from decade to decade, and we should try to paint a correct image for the period that we picked for our cars, but to go to the other extreme and expect guys to build hundred point period correct cars is selfish and makes us look like elite assholes.
Again , the purpose of this thread is to inspire more guys to build tradionally styled customs and not turn us into a small group of assholes.

[shoebox1950]

Originally Posted by magoozi

I think the main objective is to inspire guys to build more traditionaly stlyed customs , so I agree with grease machine, if you can afford to build a 100% period correct custom , more power to you, but it is not cheap, for starters , the number of guys that still gas weld and hammer weld , do lead work and peck and file , you can count on one hand , and they are not cheap and this type of work is labor intensive, if you are rebuilding a famous custom that you plan to take to pebble beach, than you can only use n.o.s. parts , original nuts and bolts, n.o.s. tires, wirering, voltage regulators, real tuck and rolls, vintage nalgahyde, on and on.
Same go'es for the paint, a good 16 coat lacqere can out shine a two stage paint and has more depth, if you are lucky enough to be able to buy lacqere , more power to you, in california, a shop can only buy water based paints now, and again lacqere is labor intensive, you have to colour sand between each and every coat. besides lacqere did'nt became popular till the fifties, enamel was the paint of choice in the fortys, so it all depends on what era you are trying to inmulate.
I do think it is important to pick an era or period for our cars and try to stick to it,customizing stlyes changed from decade to decade, and we should try to paint a correct image for the period that we picked for our cars, but to go to the other extreme and expect guys to build hundred point period correct cars is selfish and makes us look like elite assholes.
Again , the purpose of this thread is to inspire more guys to build tradionally styled customs and not turn us into a small group of assholes.

Well said, Miguel...

[fordor41]

Originally Posted by magoozi

I think the main objective is to inspire guys to build more traditionaly stlyed customs , so I agree with grease machine, if you can afford to build a 100% period correct custom , more power to you, but it is not cheap, for starters , the number of guys that still gas weld and hammer weld , do lead work and peck and file , you can count on one hand , and they are not cheap and this type of work is labor intensive, if you are rebuilding a famous custom that you plan to take to pebble beach, than you can only use n.o.s. parts , original nuts and bolts, n.o.s. tires, wirering, voltage regulators, real tuck and rolls, vintage nalgahyde, on and on.
Same go'es for the paint, a good 16 coat lacqere can out shine a two stage paint and has more depth, if you are lucky enough to be able to buy lacqere , more power to you, in california, a shop can only buy water based paints now, and again lacqere is labor intensive, you have to colour sand between each and every coat. besides lacqere did'nt became popular till the fifties, enamel was the paint of choice in the fortys, so it all depends on what era you are trying to inmulate.
I do think it is important to pick an era or period for our cars and try to stick to it,customizing stlyes changed from decade to decade, and we should try to paint a correct image for the period that we picked for our cars, but to go to the other extreme and expect guys to build hundred point period correct cars is selfish and makes us look like elite assholes.
Again , the purpose of this thread is to inspire more guys to build tradionally styled customs and not turn us into a small group of assholes.

What's a "traditional-styled" hot rod. It all depends which era they are built. 50's were sure different than the '70s. East coast /west coast. It all depends where you are and when.