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#1 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Hey all here is my f100 build thread.
I had a decent amount of money saved up due to a speeding ticket I anticipated being guilty of, cop didn't show up to the case, and I got off scot-free. So with that money, I just kept savin' and savin'. I bought an overpriced f100 last spring. I was pretty eager to start my first project and also, since I just turned 18 at the time, to have my first ride with the title in my name. There are a lot of problems with this truck and I've learned quite a few lessons so far when it comes to buying used vehicles. It has been sitting for a year almost without me doing much to it. I've mostly just been researching and gathering parts in the meantime. The goal here is a decent hot rodded truck for me to cruise, use, and abuse. I want to stay on a moderate budget but I don't want a truck in the end that I'm going to cry over if it gets scratched or dented. Although I may not be as talented as my fellow Hambers when it comes to quality of work, I'm shooting for the highest quality I can do mostly on my own. So here it is..... What I'm starting with (that's my girlfriend's dad in the pic, he and his best friend are giving their help on this build when I need it) ![]() The day we picked it up ![]() Brought it home. ALOT of bondo on this truck. The doors are junk, along with the fenders, hood, etc. Also the bed has been screwed with. I'm going to have to be chasing and correcting who knows how many owner's hackjobs. This is going to be alot of work....... Last edited by Brog; 04-03-2013 at 11:44 PM. |
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#2 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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I wish I had pictures but the home made engine mounts/crossmember it came with looked terrible. With that being cut out, I started installing my mustang II ifs kit from TCI. My girlfriend's dad provided help when two sets of hands were required.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This might of been a huge mistake but I wanted to do ALL of the welding on my own, and I did. This also was my first time really using a MIG welder, uh oh. ![]()
Last edited by Brog; 09-16-2012 at 05:44 PM. |
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#3 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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EDIT- Found a pic of the ugly engine crossmember that came with it, it was welded between the framerails and I had to cut it out. Doesn't it look terrible?!
![]() Almost final product. Springs need to be worn in and possibly cut. Also I might remove the original flathead crossmember that's riveted in, depending on how my 302 will fit. ![]()
Last edited by Brog; 09-16-2012 at 05:43 PM. |
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#4 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Citrus Heights, CA
Posts: 288
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Cool truck!
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#5 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Des Moines Iowa
Posts: 76
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Very Nice
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#6 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Thanks guys. I'm between low gloss black (reverse steelies w/ wwalls) or silver (black steelies w/ wwalls) for the truck's color scheme cause right now it looks like a big ol' elephant haha. Although paint is far far from now. What do you all think?
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My '56 F100 Build Last edited by Brog; 03-20-2012 at 08:35 AM. |
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#7 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 68
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Easy to find numerous hack jobs. Before you know it you have fixed/replaced everything twice.
Good luck. |
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#8 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: no. illinois
Posts: 5,775
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...them are some very good lookin welds, nice job.
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8th Annual "Scrap Drive" Show/Swap June 7th, 2014... Belvidere, Illinois. www.thescrapdrive.com |
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#9 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Haha thanks guys. TCI sent me the stock height spindles instead of the 2 inch drop spindles. Those will have to be replaced..... they were nice enough to ship me the new spindles this week and gave me a drop tag to ship the stock ones back free of charge, Hopefully the engine will get in this weekend and the rear will be boxed
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My '56 F100 Build |
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#10 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Marshalltown iowa
Posts: 2,508
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looks like a good start ! have a 55 i'm doin myself
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One hand on the wheel and one on the bottle one foot in the grave the other the throttle !
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#11 |
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FNG
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: kansas
Posts: 45
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I had to remove the front crossmember in mine when I installed my sbc just no way it was gonna work...
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#12 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Got some mustang bucket seats this morning for a decent price. I think they'll look great and plus I'm keeping it all ford! I'm going to have to fabricate a set of risers to make them work.
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My '56 F100 Build |
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#13 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 61
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Looking good.
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#14 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Rodsville, CA
Posts: 6,028
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you have learned some big lessons. even the one assuming that a big name company will send you the right part the first time. welds seem to be pretty good. as for color, I would go with Silver. but, that is less forgiving than a basic Black when painting your first time out. Mustang seats might seem a little small in that cab. keep us posted on progress.
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#15 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Haha yeah better late than never on learning lessons. I plan on being part of the manual labor of the body work and helping out but I don't think I'll be doing any spraying on my own. Paint and body work is an entirely different entity when it comes to cars, and it's really not my specialty at all. That being said, with the paint and some of the bodywork being out of my hands I think the black will turn out fine
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My '56 F100 Build |
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#16 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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A long weekend of deconstruction/teardown. Bed and runnings boards are off, cab is stripped, you name it. Time to actually get things done next weekend.
For now I thought this would be cool to post. My woman's family gave me some license plates over the weekend. So what if they're not "traditional" I'm still gonna make some sunvisors out of them ![]()
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My '56 F100 Build |
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#17 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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![]() Good bye high school graduation money! I bought this 302 with a 4 speed for a couple hundred bucks. Hopefully I can get this son of a bitch running! I sold the 4 speed, looking for a tko-600 5 speed. This 302 will be in there just to get it to move under its own will. I'm planning on doing a later 302 (bored .030 over, roller cam, and rocker setup) build in the meantime.
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My '56 F100 Build Last edited by Brog; 09-17-2012 at 10:03 PM. |
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#18 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: north central Texas
Posts: 5,158
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One thing that you might look into is the crossmember (that's been removed) between the frame at the front cab mounts. If the crossmember is left out, it lets the frame rails twist and the cab mounts settle. That eventually throws everything off as far as lineing up body panels.
Larry T
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Goldchainers CC |
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#19 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Yes sir. I appreciate your input. Once I get a new tranny and the engine all lined up, I was planning to make a new crossmember. The doors and body panels lining up is just going to be a nightmare
edit- I forgot to mention there's a random piece of 2 x 3 wood on the drivers side, in between the front cab mounting perch and the cab, bunch of idiots I'm having to deal with here. I wish I could meet the previous owners and ask what the hell they were thinking. I mean I'm no expert but alot of this shit does not seem right
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My '56 F100 Build Last edited by Brog; 04-18-2012 at 12:38 PM. |
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#20 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Berryville, VA
Posts: 270
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Reserved for pictures of the previous owner's shortcomings....
Wood between cab perch and cab... ![]() Here is how I literally found the brake line routed, I guess they were too lazy to cut and flare and then hook everything up. I guess they were set on a certain length of brakeline and were gonna try to make it work..... ![]() An over bondo'd door that doesn't even match the cab's profile Notice the bondo on the cowl and the barely existent metal I ripped out ![]() The doors felt flimsy and not solid at all. Knowing they were junk I gave one a good hit and my hand could have gone straight through. Bondo was used to fill the gaps in between the metal. ![]() A "professional" inner cab post repair....
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My '56 F100 Build Last edited by Brog; 04-22-2012 at 08:04 PM. |
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