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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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Photos are up< scroll dowwwwn
Last edited by slepe67; 08-21-2011 at 05:03 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot and cant run a damn computer without help from a teenager |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: hersham,england
Posts: 1,296
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__________________
if she dont come i"ll tickle her bum with a lump of celery |
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#3 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SUGAR CITY
Posts: 16,013
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Well I am super stoked to see you get on it!!! Looks a lot better then I thought. You actually have a decent coupe there!
As for the radiator, you could have it cut down but then you have less usable area to cool. Most guys moved the radiator in front of the front crossmember which is what most guys did but I don't like the way that looks most of the time. |
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#4 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Midland, Michigan
Posts: 2,135
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I'm glad to see you started a build thread.
You've got a nice start there. Please find someone to show you how to post pics from Photobucket. Opening them one at a time is driving me crazy.
__________________
The Chemical City Coupe ![]() Bonneville inspired '32 ford 5-Window Build thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=727871 |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
yeah, it was about time! In regards to photos...this thread DOES suck for now. I've posted pics in here a hundred times, but I cant figure out how to post MANY pics with narrative (like a blog) in here..thoughts??? I may jsut do a few at a time. Gonna have my Facebookin' daughter help me out on that one. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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here goes...
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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and again...so much for a narrative of the pics. It'll be a pain to follow, but will try to fiugre out how to do it.
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#8 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Phoenix,AZ USA
Posts: 4,592
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Your using Photobucket, super easy to post pics.
I use Firefox on a PC, so if you're on something else it may be slightly different. Start by opening the HAMB post reply window in one tab and your Photobucket inn another. When you are on your album view all your pictures will be in thumbnail. If you hover your mouse over each picture, a dropdown window will appear and there will be four choices. Roll down to the one that shows [IMG] and click it. It will automatically save, switch back to the HAMB tab and in the post reply window, right click and hit paste or hold down the ctrl button and hit V at the same time. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: pittsburgh PA
Posts: 1,143
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looks like you got yourself a nice project. I like it. Ill have to watch this. Are you trying to keep it all ford
__________________
RUSTY hemi Model A Coupe build http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=647364 |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
![]() thanks for the reminder! Engine: 302 (5.0) roller motor with Hilborn injection, MSD ignition, JBA headers, and '67 Mustang parts in front of it (pulleys, radiator, etc) Blowproof bellhousing 4 speed toploader from a 71 428 CJ Torino 1999 Ford Expedition aluminum driveshaft 1999 Ford Expedition rear end w/ disc brakes Ladder bars, transeverse rear spring, 4 inch drop front end with disc brakes. Pretty much a belly button chassis. |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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so, where the HECK do I begin?
POST 7 Photos 2 & 3 show my trunk area. I plan to use those subrails and weld them to the quarter panels. Sheetmetal floor over that, welded to the quarters as well. Photos 5 & 6 show jsut how well Tudor doors fit in a 5 window. For the record, they are only 1/4 inch shorter. Everything else seems OK. I need to find the lower cowl side hinge and I can get the doors on and jammed. Held together by hose clamps right now. Photos 5 through 9: pretty much sums up my radiator dilemma. Gotta figure that out. 500 HP with tiny radiator=bad. Photo 10- any ideas on how to put a flat firewall (machine turned) without seeing any bolt holes??? Been looking for a thread for MONTHS.... POST 8 pics 2 & 3 show how the top had about 1.5 inches removed from it to chop another car. I dont think that'll be too hard to fix ![]() Pic 4 shows how the rear fenders were welded on back in the day. I'm going to clean that up, but will likely weld fenders on it again, (as seen most recently in R & K, Chris Ito's coupe. A most excellent ride!) and no, I dont plan on using those wheels. The plan is for 8.20x31s piecrusts on 15x8.5 torq thrusts. Pics 5 & 6 show the minor amount of sheetmetal I need to replace. Only about an inch or so along the bottom. Pic 7 & 8 simply show the inside. So, if it was your ride, where would YOU begin? I'm going to have the chassis rolling very soon and when that is done, I start on the body. Maybe I'll get it dipped and primered. Thinking about a Uni-Body style floor. Body colors were white, then poweder blue, and latest..that horrid Lime Gold from the late 60s....I'm thinking baby blue, black interior. |
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#12 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Missery
Posts: 624
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Subscribed, your miles ahead of me. I was thinking the same thing about running machine turned firewall, I was going to cover the firewall I already have and maybe rivit the machine turned one to it with some nice ss rivits. Have you found a piece of machine turned yet? If so how much $. Here's what I want to cover up.
__________________
$ Forgivness is always easier than permission $ |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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D.O.D.= I think your pretty well off! That thing is solid!
Firewall=No, I was just going to do it myself. Eastwood sells a kit. I still have to get a 32 firewall pattern before I can jig my car up. I'm too damn cheap. If you knew how little I had in this car you wouldnt believe me. My wife has plans for all that money Uncle Sugare gives me, and it isnt for 32 Fords!!!! Last edited by slepe67; 08-21-2011 at 06:50 PM. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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I figured it out. I raised the body to look like "JalopyKids" old 32 5W (Red car). It's a mid-height channeled car. You can still see the beauty line on the frame. Why am I going this route?
1). I can keep the same radiator. The cowl is now about 1/2" higher than the grill shell. (PIC 2) 2). It's not a highboy, not a lowboy and very different 3). This will allow me to chop the car, should the urge ever arise 4). Most importantly, the Tudor doors. They don't line up. I'll have to chop and pull them aft in order to get them to line up to the 5W's contour lines. Anybody find sanity to my logic? Obviously, I've never done this before. It's a lot cheaper and easier to move the body around now, since it has no floor. Right now, all the mocking up is free and fast/easy. I'm open for suggestions. Last edited by slepe67; 08-21-2011 at 06:49 PM. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Melbourne, New Holland
Posts: 1,967
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Great stuff!
When we hook up for the pic thing, I will show you where I cut my sedan doors to fit the gap. As for where to start, I started with the cowl and am working my way back.......in my head anyway ![]() Taking today off work to work a little more on my floor
__________________
WANTED: Lincoln Y block to 39 Ford box trans adapter. |
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#16 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 8,218
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Quote:
![]() If the green cowl bead and the green rear quarter bead are from 32 Fords...then the bead line or belt line, should be horizontal. In other words, a 5W door does not have a sloping belt line to match that body as you have it propped up. ![]() Take a look at the side profile pic; the roof top edge looks wrong....like the 2 halves of the body are not at the same height. and , aren't they 4 dr sedan front doors
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 1,152
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By looking at it, I MIGHT be able to get away with pie cutting the front door post. Then, cut out about 1/4" to 1/2" of the aft door pillar. Bend the aft section down, and re-weld. It sounds do-able on paper at least.
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#18 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 8,218
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Quote:
My head hurts ![]() Looking at the pics, the back body height is mocked up wrong. You need to start with both halves of the body at the correct plane. You really shouldn't cut the B pillar to fit an incorrect door profile, because the beltline will not be horizontal. Don't know if I am clear enough, but let's say your neighbor had a mint 5w body shell; then you'd take your wrong door and cut/weld the door to fit a mint orig body. Just imagine the mess you'd have if you made your wrong door fit his car, by cutting/welding his car to fit your uncut wrong door. |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Melbourne, New Holland
Posts: 1,967
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Quote:
The sedan doors angle up slightly in the window opening, they do not on a 5W, he is cutting the door to look like a 5W............its the right thing to do........well I hope so as I have already done it hahahaha
__________________
WANTED: Lincoln Y block to 39 Ford box trans adapter. |
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#20 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 8,218
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Quote:
As I read it, he is not cutting the door, he is cutting the front W/S post and the B pillar. That ain't right ![]() The main reason the beltlines don't match the door is because he has the back body and roof rail moved up to fit that wrong door top profile. |
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