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#1 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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I see that some good information on patch panels has been posted. This piece is kinda long, so I thought I’d start another thread. First, understand there are many ways to do this. This is one of the procedures I use for simple panels like this 63 Impala fender. It’s what works well for me.
In the first picture the area to be replaced is marked. There is a brace behind the rust out that is still in good condition. I marked my cut lines in areas where I could get to the back of most of the weld to hammer it. I also like to use curved corners, rather than 90 degree corners in the open areas of the panel. This seems to help keep distortion down. |
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#2 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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I cut the 2 spot welds along the edge with a spotle tool. Any spot weld drill could be used, or you can grind thru the top layer of metal at the weld to remove the piece.
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#3 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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After removing the section, the brace should be cleaned up. I wire brushed this area, and treated it with conversion coating after the metal work was done.
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#4 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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I started the patch by braking a 90 degree edge in a piece of 18 ga.
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#5 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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I used a shrinker to pull the crown in the patch. If you don’t have one you can cut and weld the flange. The important thing is that you take the time to fit the patch well. It should lay flat without clamping.
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#6 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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Once the crown is correct, then the patch is trimmed to fit. I like a slight gap, about 1/6” and even all around the patch. Again, take the time to fit your patch and the job will go easier, and you finished product will come out better.
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#7 |
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Editor
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lahar Valley, WA
Posts: 11,626
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bttt
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Seymour, WI
Posts: 513
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I will bttt this one!
TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!!TECH-O-MATIC!!!! ![]() Mike |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Williston SC
Posts: 547
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Tinbender, have you ever tried the Mecco Midget and compared it to the Henrob?
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#10 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Pinellas County - the skin tag on the underside of America's wang, Florida
Posts: 8,202
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Tech-O-Matic! BTTT
Already in my favorites |
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#11 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: house
Posts: 3,664
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Here's some more thoughts on patching....After I weld in a patch, I turn off the shop lights, and hold a spotlight behind the panel to check for pinholes. I also prefer to use a very thin coat of "all metal", front and back, before finishing with bondo. I used to lead the repaired area for insurance, but now feel that we have some modern alternatives that are less of a health issue. One other thing....when you are repairing a "sandwiched" area, weld-thru primer is a good idea...available either as a spray or brush on application. Some of these ideas are from ICAR training on unibody...good course if you ever get a chance.
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#12 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,309
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Thanks for the nice words guys!
Banzai, nevr tried the Mecco, but I've heard nothing but good about it. Hatch good tip on the light, I check my welds all the time with a strong flash light. As for the All Metal, I don't use it, and I strongly recommend against it. It's unnessary and prone to cracking and leaveing ghost lines, all the things you avoid by gas welding. |
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#13 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: house
Posts: 3,664
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I agree on "all metal" cracking. No flexibility at all. I only use it over the weld and almost thin enough to see through. The one advantage is moisture can't get through it, where with bondo will absorb moisture.....Great post and pics...hatch
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#14 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: garden grove, ca.,usa
Posts: 727
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Great tech, very well organized and informative!
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