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#1 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: METHaway, WA
Posts: 8,142
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First off.....this is pretty basic stuff and probably been covered before, but since I just did a pair last weekend, thought I'd share.
These are early round back spindles, but the procedure is basically the same for any I-beam axle, be it Ford or even a new Semi.... Here's the tools. I use a pair of sockets, one just a hair smaller than the bushing, the other larger so that the bushing fits inside of it. Vise. Reamer. I found this one in a box with a bunch of valve grinding tools and it just happened to be the right size. It'll work on all Ford bushings up to and including F-1's..... You can also use a bearing/seal driver the correct size and a hammer to tap out the old bushings. ![]() (1) Remove old bushings. Use the sockets in a vise as a "press" and crank 'em out. (Or use a hammer and driver). They should come right out. But if ya get a stubborn one, I like to use a hack saw and cut into it. Once they are out, I debur the holes and clean the holes up with emory cloth. I also remove the grease zerks. (2) Install new bushings. Line up the hole in the bushing with the zerk hole and tap in the bushing. Then I put the spindle in the vise and "press" the bushing in, making sure the bushing goes in square. ![]() (3) Reaming bushings. Now that the bushings are in, they need reamed to size, as they have "crushed" when pressed in. I debur the edges of the bushings and tap in the reamer. If you don't have a reamer, you can use a small cylinder hone and "creep up" on the kingpin size....it just takes longer. If the reamer "pilot" won't go in with light taps, ya may need to file or sand some of the bushing by hand. Once the reamer is in, slowly "grind" through the bushing. Once finished, do the other bushing. The pilot of the reamer keeps the cut square. Once bushings are reamed, clean out the holes and test fit a kingpin. It should slide in with very little effort, but still be tight. ![]() Reamed bushing. ![]() (4) Install. Put spindle on axle, with the bearing on the bottom, face the bearing so that the groove is facing down (It won't fill up with water/dirt). Take the kingpin and install the cupped washer and felt. Lightly grease the pin.....then slide it into the spindle, keeping the notch lined up with the hole in the axle. Install the retainer pin and new gease zerks and yer done. ![]() ![]() Overall.....it only takes @ an hour to do both spindles if you have a reamer. Now you could always install the bushings and take 'em to a machine shop to have the pins fitted, but some folks live out in the toolies, or just prefer to do their own work. Plus, if ya have a reamer, you can charge all your buddies a case of beer to do theirs.....he he he.....
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Pinstriping by Josh |
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#2 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ft Worth
Posts: 1,097
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It all sounds so simple... Where do you go about "finding" a reamer? I have '47 Ford spindles and a set of kingpins from Speedway.
Jay
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#3 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Garden State
Posts: 2,987
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Quote:
Jay, they are out there. The size you need is .814" for old Ford spindles
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I was bored before I even began. |
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#4 | |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: edmonton,alberta,canada
Posts: 213
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Quote:
OR "EMCO" in Chicago is a good source as well..... they all have a huge selection of reamers....what you want is an "ADJUSTABLE REAMER" in the correct size range....so you can remove minute amounts of material at a time to get just the right fit...
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DUSTYRUSTEE...... |
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#5 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: METHaway, WA
Posts: 8,142
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Here's a few.....
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...in-Reamer.html http://cgi.ebay.com/Flathead-Ford-Ca...QQcmdZViewItem
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Pinstriping by Josh |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: El Paso TX
Posts: 1,431
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You should be able to find the reamers at MSC or McMaster Carr. MSC is an industrial tool supply house but they will sell to anyone. Call 1-800-645-7270 and ask for the book. They'll send you a 5" thick book full of tools etc. Or try mscdirect.com.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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#7 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Yakima Valley, WA
Posts: 15,625
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Thanks for the simple but well done article.
McMaster Carr is a great source for just about any hardware item you might be hunting for. The don't poke around about shipping either.
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Definition of a "work car". One you have to work on all weekend so you can drive it to work the next week. |
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#8 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ft Worth
Posts: 1,097
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Thanks guys. I like the idea of doing it myself and if somone else brings me some free beer for doing theirs, all the better. You made this sound so simple, i have to give it a go.
Jay
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#9 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ft Worth
Posts: 1,097
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Quick question: I called a local machine shop... They want $80.00 to do the pair. They said they use a rod hone that is 18" long and do both at the same time. Is there any issue with getting diff angles by doing them one at a time?
Jay
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#10 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Madison NJ USA
Posts: 18,361
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Note that that reamer happened to fit because it is a Ford spindle reamer...that is why it has the long shank beyond the blades, in order to align one bushing on the other ans so make the cuts on the same path. Using a standard reamer is potentially a problem as it will cut each bushing as a separate event, leaving a strong possibility of misalignment.
Old ones are easy to find IF you know the size--they are cheap at fleamarkets simply because no one knows what they fit. Most will have that .814 stamped right on there. KD made a nice one that even had a piloted bushing driver with it on the same shaft... Good repro ones, made in Canada, are available from Bratton. http://www.brattons.com/prodtype.asp...ageHistory=cat
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Bruce |
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#11 |
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FNG
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 18
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what size is the polit on the reamer. I assume it is less than .814". I want to make one for my adjustable reamer.
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#12 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Garden State
Posts: 2,987
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Quote:
Just my two cents...
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I was bored before I even began. Last edited by banjorear; 03-04-2008 at 01:49 PM. |
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#13 |
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FNG
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 18
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 2,113
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Atlas Spring here in Wichita charges me $36 to press out old bushing, press in new bushings and ream the bushings to fit the king pins. I thought that was a pretty fair deal.
I've always wanted to get a king pin reamer though as it seems like a pretty simple deal if you have one. Great tech piece.
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I am a displaced Minnesotan that is happy to have a real spring and a real fall, rather than just one long winter. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 2,106
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I did mine with a standard reamer, by leaving one old bush in place and using that as a guide to ream the first new one. Then fit the other new one and ream through the first new one into the second new one. Obviously you have to use judgement to compensate for the wear when doing the first one, but it seems to work ok for me, and is much better than trying to do two new ones in one go.
Mart.
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My build thread: 33 5W Visit my website: www.martsrods.com Try and diagnose my misfire: My Video |
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#16 |
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FNG
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 24
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Hi Guys haven't been on in a while we pulled the Willys apart and changed the steering box and I wish I would have read this before as I bought the Royal king pin set from Speedway. I'll let you know how that works. It's got roller bearings instead of bushings. Thanks
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#17 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Calgary AB Canada
Posts: 2,506
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Quote:
1. Reduce turning effort. 2. DON'T need ANY reaming - the outside bearing races slide into the inside of the spindle boss and the outside race sits on the kingpins. (the kingpins have a machined "step" to allow the bearings to sit in position) I installed them on my '41 Ford Truck front end; and I LOVE them!!
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Digger Dave Flathead Fanatic "A cluttered workshop, is the sign of a GENIUS at work!*" (*unless they were messy to begin with!) |
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#18 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boonton, NJ
Posts: 2,705
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Another thing about king pins. They ain't lubed for life!
You should only have to do king pins once as long as you own the car. Give them a shot of grease every 1000 miles and they will last forever. Or sooner if ya like. Grease don't hurt them. Frank |
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#19 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wa. "The Wet Side"/ Socal "The Desert"
Posts: 7,121
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in the past i have used a brake hone with much sucess! like josh said "its just a slower process!" but now that i know josh has a reamer.....
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,169
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I used a brake hone on mine and got one set oval shape so I quit and had a machine shop chuck them up and ream in one pass. A Sunnen hone works best if you know anyone with one.
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one driver, two in the back seat, three on the tree, four on the floor, and a fifth under the seat. |
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