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#1 |
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Guest
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A couple of guys have asked for tech on how I did the cowl steering in my RPU. Well it took a while but we are doing the same thing with the modified and I finally got some pics.
First you need to find a steering box. Any steering box that the pitman arm hangs down on will work. If you are lucky enough to find a box that is already out. Turn the steering wheel or column shaft. If the pitman arm shaft turns the opposite way, the box is good for cowl steering. Next you need to find a steering box that is willing to donate it's pitman arm shaft and pitman arm. Here is the second pitman arm shaft after a macine shop cut it down and bored it to fit over the threads on the shaft that is in the box. Make sure it is a tight fit so that it keeps the shaft straight. Clark |
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#2 |
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Guest
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I should have mentioned the gear in that last photo is what was cut off of the shaft.
Here is a pic of the bored end that fits on the other pitman arm shaft. Clark |
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#3 |
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Guest
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Her is a pic of the steering shaft welded onto the steering box. On this one we didn't take the box apart. On the others we took the box apart and had the pitman arm shaft machined to fit in the other shaft. On this one we just had it machined to fit tightly over the threads.
Don't forget to index the shaft before you weld it. Turn the steering shaft lock to lock counting how many times it takes. Then turn it to half way. Put the box in the car and make sure the pitman arm hangs straight down. Clark |
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#4 |
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Here is a pic of the brackets we made to mount the box. The bearing block is not in yet.
We used 1x2 tubing to make a "cage" under the dash. Make sure the bottom is mounted to something strong. Mounting it to a sheetmetal floor will allow it to flex. Sorry I don't have pics of the box in yet. I'll get them as soon as it's done. Till then I'll include pics of my old RPU Clark |
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#5 |
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Guest
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Here's a pic from my old RPU.
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#6 |
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Another
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#7 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 6,915
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Tech-O-Matic!!!!
Thanks, JH |
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#8 |
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Guest
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Here's a pic of Larry's
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#9 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: So-Ont, Canada
Posts: 1,876
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Thank's a bunch for posting this SoWhat, this is the same setup I want to run in my 27.
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 456
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great tech and photos. thanks!!!
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#11 |
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Art Editor
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Palookaville
Posts: 11,753
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Great tech Clark!!!......got this one bookmarked
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Beaufort , NC USA!!!!!!
Posts: 1,615
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Great post! Thanks SW!! Could you have the "new" shaft threaded to screw onto the old one?? Some locktite would help and if you had to take the box apart you might have a chance.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Beaufort , NC USA!!!!!!
Posts: 1,615
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Why is it when I re to a post it drops like a rock to page 3??????????????????????????????????????
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#14 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corner of Sodom & Gomorrah Spokane WA.
Posts: 3,326
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Nice tech post! Thank you. I'm definatly going with this set up on my 33. It looks like you gain some needed room in the foot well.
Anyone have any pics of a bellcrank set up to reverse the direction if you go with a box that turns the other direction? It seems like that might allow the drag link to sit lower on some applications. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Angeles City, Philippines, right next to Clark Air Force Base
Posts: 1,454
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The last thing you would want is a shaft that could come undone, and lose you your steering
![]() Even with some of the latest superstrong Loctite products I would never rely on them in this application. With welding there is very little chance of it moving. If it was lined up, and dead straight, there is no reason why the weld could not be ground or turned flush to allow removal of the shaft for repairs or rebuilds. I have butt welded my steering column, and was careful to keep it dead true while welding, and after it was filed and rubbed smooth it is impossible to see that it was ever joined. But even though it is a 7/8" solid rod I will weld a thin sleeve over it, as I am a real pessimist about things like that ![]() Better safe than sorry when I'll have the family riding with me. |
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#16 |
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Guest
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I think locktite is a bad idea. Sorry.
We v'ed it a bit before welding and the weld does not stick up much, so i think grinding it flush wouldn't be a problem. Thanks for all of the possitive feedback!! Clark |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: harrisburg PA
Posts: 996
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i think the best bet would be to machine the main shafts threads off (the shaft that actually goes into the stering box)...bore the inside of the doner shaft to that size... then taper both edges and drill for 2 plug welds...tig everthing and remachine it back to smooth...
zach |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Beaufort , NC USA!!!!!!
Posts: 1,615
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Hey it was just a thought! Watch it drop.............
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