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Oil Filter O-Ring Blowing out on my 283 Chevy V8

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chstitans42, Mar 13, 2013.

  1. My ol' lady's ex lost a 302 in a 67 mustang coupe this way^^^

    ...I'm not ashamed to say that it got me a free 1967 Mustang coupe for my daughter! :)
     
  2. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,637

    SimonSez
    Member

    Ok - just to clarify, there are two valves that have been mentioned so far in the thread.


    The first is the oil filter bypass valve.

    This is part of the oil filter adaptor and bolts on where the oil filter goes. It will open if the oil filter gets plugged so the engine doesn't starve of oil.

    By the sound of your post, this is moving freely so is probably ok.



    The second valve is the oil pressure relief valve. This is part of the oil pump and this valve limits the amount of pressure that the oil pump puts out. They are normally set to around 65 psi.

    If this valve is stuck closed, the pump will put out way more than that and will overpower the bypass valve and the excess pressure will blow the oil filter gasket out.

    You can confirm this by putting an oil pressure gauge on the engine. There is a threaded outlet near the distributor where the idiot light sender attaches - if you put a mechanical gauge in there you will see what is going on.

    If there is too much pressure you will have to pull the pan and check the oil pump out.


     
  3. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    SimonSez
    Thanks for the clarification in your post. Since my oil filter bypass valve is free, does that pretty much mean a new oil pump is in order? I will be looking into checking the oil pressure tomorrow. Interesting, I have never heard of an old car having too much oil pressure. Learning everyday!
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  4. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    oil pressure is a "need to know" !!
     
  5. my o/t big block 402 truck sat from 1978 until 2007....it wasn't stuck so we put a little gas in it after cleaning the points and fired it up....keept blowing the filter - every Chevy guy I knew checked it out - we checked the pressure plug even ran it straight threw like some racers due...it never knocked for those first moments - even the light went out before it blew....figured maybe a cam bearing slipped or something enough to block a passage....just pulled the motor and dropped a 454 in...
     
  6. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    Hmmm well I hope that isn't my problem. I would like to avoid an engine swap if at all possible. We will see what happens tomorrow!
     
  7. me to - on dropping the pan to check...after reading....just new my 454 was good and was eager to swap it out....good luck...
     
  8. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

  9. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    Plugged in the oil pressure gauge, and the needle went way past 100, so the oil pan will be dropped and the oil pump replaced.
     
  10. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    You don't have to replace the pump, it is fine. Just take out the relief valve plunger, clean the gum and sludge off it, and put it back. Be careful to get the plunger, spring etc back in the same order. Double check with your manual in case it was put in wrong some time in the past.
     
  11. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    Dropped the pump today, the oil pressure relief valve was all gummed up. I have never seen so much sludge in an engine
     
  12. Sweet! Glad you got it handled! :)


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  13. road_toad666
    Joined: Feb 20, 2013
    Posts: 9

    road_toad666
    Member

    Short of an obstruction at your adaptor, it does sound like your bypass valve is stuck. You may want to try replacing a quart of your oil with some Marvel mystery oil, it will work wonder for unsticking congealed oil in engines that have been sitting for an eternity.

    I have a Dodge military truck, 89 model, with only 35k miles. It had a lifter that was stuck, and ticking away. The truck was not lacking oil pressure, so it was obviously a gunked up lifter from old oil, and lack of use. I tried the old trick of rapping on the lifter with the valve cover off, overwhelming the lifter with oil pressure, to no avail. I put a quart of Marvel in the crankcase, and fired it up. I let it idle for 5 minutes, and that lifter that was stuck for years got quieter and quieter over the course of several minutes, and finally shut up completely. It has been a year now, and not a peep out of it since.

    Just my 2 cents, it works well in oil and fuel systems that have been stored for long periods improperly. It is harmless and much cheaper and far easier than dropping your pan to deal with a stuck bypass valve, which on SBC is located in the oil pump housing itself.
     
  14. 33sporttruck
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 530

    33sporttruck
    Member

    The Guys are right on about the Oil Pump Relief Valve. You can Clean it up and reassemble. The only reasons that I replace the pump in my 400 SBC was that I worked in an auto parts store, the price was discounted and I was able to keep that 400 running from 1977 to 2010. Each time the 400 was changed to a different car, it was torn down, clearances were checked, then put back together with Felpro Gaskets. That particular 400 now lives in a 51 Chevy 2-door H-Top and is still alive and kicking ASS !!! I had the pleasure of hearing it run in 2012......... Jeff
     
  15. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA


    X2, I had a similar experience where when removing the old filter the ring stuck to the adapter, I did not notice that situation with oil everywhere.
    As soon as I put the replacement filter on and started the engine it blow oil out immediately.

    Since I had 2 rings fitted in.

    I was running a high volume pump.

    Pulled the stuck ring out and all was well there after...
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013
  16. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,893

    Mart
    Member

    Glad you were able to home in on the problem without too much messing about.

    Mart.
     
  17. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    It was a whole day of messing about, but I think it is finally done. The engine had to be lifted up in order to drop the pan, where we had to disconnect some of the steering gear in order to get the jack under the crankshaft pully. Ill be posting more vids soon on my resto thread!
     
  18. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    I am assuming you then drained the oil after running the marvel mystery oil in it for those five mins correct?
     
  19. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    :)How bad was the sluge in the pan and the crankcase? If you want to add Marvel Mystery Oil , I'm sure you can run it till next oil change , Read the directions on the can,:cool:
     
  20. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    About a quarter inch of sludge in the pan. I guarantee I was the first to ever remove that pan. I will be posting a video about it in my resto thread
     
  21. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 824

    Diavolo
    Member

    Good luck with it, I'm watching intently.

    I've read the Kreen posts on another forum and was impressed but MMO is the most close second and, for what you are doing, should be more appropriate. I'm continually amazed at what can run well after decades of abuse and what will s(*& the bed if one little thing is just slightly our of place.

    Good luck!
     
  22. fix the pump
    then put the metal canister on after changing back to the original adapter

    run the metal canisters on stock car and they are able to handle more presure than stock spin on

    the metal canister should have been original equipment
     
  23. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    I heard they are messy when it comes to an oil change
     
  24. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,306

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    good info right there
    thats what i'd do
    :cool:
     
  25. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,446

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    Congratulations, once you get the kinks worked out you will be cruising in style. My best friend back in high school picked up a '58 Bel Air 4 door from a farm in northern Iowa. It was faded "salmon" over white with a salmon and maroon interior, 348 and a cast iron Powerglide. We tore up the streets with that thing.

    Nearly every old car I've worked on has had rusty brake fluid throughout the system. If it was my car I would go through the brakes, including new wheel cylinders, hoses and master cylinder. You may end up replacing a few hard lines too, depending how things come apart. If you are serious about the disc swap now would be a great time to do it. Properly working 4 wheel drums will work too, you just have to drive it like an old car and allow for a little extra stopping distance.
     
  26. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 719

    chstitans42
    Member

    i think that the plan is I will be running the 4 wheel drums, just adding power assist to them. I figure I will be cruising this old girl around, and when I feel the need for speed I will be driving around my 1973 Big Block Convertible Corvette.
     

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