Anyone know of a Flathead builder in or near the Houston TX area that can modify the Flathead block to improve the oil filtering? I have a '49 8BA motor. Attached image is what I want to have done to the block.
This will work as shown. You may have to install a restricter in the line going TO the oil filter, in order to maintain oil pressure. I used a brass plug, with a .040 orifice. The 8BA blocks have a return fitting just above the pan rail on driver side, which will work. The system shown will also work, if you don't wish to route the return around exhaust headers. 4TTRUK
The system shown in the diagram is a "partial full flow" which means full oil pump pressure is routed to/thru the filter and back to the engine's oil galleys. No restrictor is required. You are referring to the factory "bypass" system which does require a restrictor ahead of the filter and merely dumps the filtered oil back into the pan by gravity.
Hey Carl, got any info fro a flathead Cadillac engine, since you have been involved with Buddy's engine?
Installing the filter system shown above is best done during an engine rebuilt. The block needs to be drilled and taped which will result in chips will get into places that will do serious damage.
Hey Carl, got any info fro a flathead Cadillac engine, since you have been involved with Buddy's engine? Na only involvement with me was to watch her make HP on the Dyno and shirt support for Buddy, plus mental support for Buddy and crew..... you need to talk to Buddy...........my expertise is in Henry's bent eight <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
doing the extra machine work to enable "full flow" oil filtering isn't really necessary.....realistically, all the oil makes it thru the filter at some point, and most rodders change oil more regularly and often the most folks. To use the set up you show in the first post,. just put in the "grub screw" as shown; You need that to separate the "in" and return flows to and from the filter. Just remember to put the .040" orifice plug in the "in" line to the filter. It is needed to maintain oil pressure. The way i did that was to thread a plug into the fitting going out, TO the filter, and then drill it to .040". No machine shop work needed. 4TTRUK
Dale Fairfax,.... The factory filter can had that restriction built into the inlet port, on the side of the cannister;...Which I had forgotten about, until talking with Red about a lack of o.p during initial cranking. (I didn't fire it that way!) Since I opted for a "spin-on" filter, the restricter orifice was missing...... Happy Roddin' to all !!!!!!!!!!! 4TTRUK
"doing the extra machine work to enable "full flow" oil filtering isn't really necessary.....realistically, all the oil makes it thru the filter at some point, and most rodders change oil more regularly and often the most folks. To use the set up you show in the first post,. just put in the "grub screw" as shown; You need that to separate the "in" and return flows to and from the filter. Just remember to put the .040" orifice plug in the "in" line to the filter. It is needed to maintain oil pressure. The way i did that was to thread a plug into the fitting going out, TO the filter, and then drill it to .040". No machine shop work needed." do not put oriface into the supply line to the filter the only time you need a restriction is in the stock ford filter where the discharge goes into the pan, on the 95% filter system you do not put any restriction in the system in fact I even drill a 9 1/6 bit into the verticle line from the pump to the gallery to open up the flow volume to the filter........
This is correct when converting to a spin on filter 95% there is no restriction in the line that feeds the filter from the block.If there was then all the oil to the spin would have to pass through a .060" hole before entering the filter..You would end up with a serious oil starvation problem and engine failure.Pay heed to this info..The restriction is only for a bypass filter the way the old cartridge filters were from the factory. My2¢ T
If I understand what your saying. Plug the supply port (like the diagram) and return the oil to the pan like the partial system / not drill the return to the system hole and try to push 95 percent of the oil out the 1/8 hole and fitting to the filter and dump it back in the pan. REALLY?
Here is step by step for a 95% spin on filter conversion http://www.flatheadv8.org/filter.htm If this is your objective no orifice re stricter Can't tell you what 40 ford guy has but its not this. T
OK, so if I'm reading this thread correctly, since my 47 has the factory canister filter on the driver's head, I'm just as well off leaving it in place, and being a bit more diligent about changing my oil? I read where the stock system will filter all the oil in about five minutes of running. Is that true? I was going to install a spin on filter adapter, but decided that the canister wasn't enough trouble to warrant the labor and expense. Seems to me, modifying the oiling system is one of those things best done when the block is naked, but not worth tearing the block apart just to do that one modification.
OK, so if I'm reading this thread correctly, since my 47 has the factory canister filter on the driver's head, I'm just as well off leaving it in place, and being a bit more diligent about changing my oil? I read where the stock system will filter all the oil in about five minutes of running. Is that true? I was going to install a spin on filter adapter, but decided that the canister wasn't enough trouble to warrant the labor and expense. Seems to me, modifying the oiling system is one of those things best done when the block is naked, but not worth tearing the block apart just to do that one modification. Yes Mike leave what you have and change oil regularly, only do the 95% when the block is down for rebuild, ......... <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Kinda like "don't fix it if it ain't broke". The little motor runs smooth, and cool, I see no reason to make it "better". It's going to be replaced with a small block in the near future anyway. I've got a 350 that can loaf and make 250-275 H.P., a flathead putting out 275 is going to be pushing it....
Its amazing how many on this post don't have a clue about the installation,that could have scared the op away!!!! T
I'm guessing the O/P gave it up because he was looking for a machinist in Houston, and never got an answer to his question. Shame, we were having a pretty good discussion. Now I feel bad because he got hi-jacked.
Kinda like "don't fix it if it ain't broke". The little motor runs smooth, and cool, I see no reason to make it "better". It's going to be replaced with a small block in the near future anyway. I've got a 350 that can loaf and make 250-275 H.P., a flathead putting out 275 is going to be pushing it.... Well Mike thats just not right, don't replace it with a smallblock, do it right and make Henry proud thats the way it should be done........ <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Roseville Carl..... You're correct; I didn't explain that the method I described was when installing a "spin-on" filter, in place of the factory cannister type, with the factory line connections. That is when the restrictor orfice is needed..... My error. Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK
hello all,im new on this fórum, and i want to install an oil filter for my Ford engine 1949 i have one doubt, is t the correct diameter in the restrictor orifice to pass all the oil and dirt inside of te engine??? the other question is the correct size of the filter wich is your recomendation??
You should post a new thread for this. The old Flathead oil filters are poor at doing their job. check this out. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-flathead-v8-oil-filter.747289/ http://www.flatheadv8.org/filter.htm