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292 Y block valve lash

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 57 3100, Oct 16, 2010.

  1. 57 3100
    Joined: Apr 9, 2010
    Posts: 344

    57 3100
    Member

    guys, we want to check the valve lash on my buddys 1960 edsel that has a 292.
    whats the intake and exhaust valve lash ?
    i searched and found a couple of links that say both intake and exhaust are .019 ?
    is that true ?
    thanks

    leonard
     
  2. 6deuce32yblock
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 134

    6deuce32yblock
    Member

    if it is a stock cam, that is correct. a better way because of the wear on the valve train(assuming it is an old engine) is just tighten down on the adjuster until all clearance is gone, than back off 1/4 turn and lock it down. do this on all valves. this should give a more accurate adjustment. hope this helps
     
  3. 57 3100
    Joined: Apr 9, 2010
    Posts: 344

    57 3100
    Member

    thanks for the confirmation and info....yes, its all original.

    leonard
     
  4. RAY With
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,132

    RAY With
    Member

    I did a lot of Yblocks and the settings I used the most was .018. Y blocks are supose to be noisey because there all solid mush room lifters. If you have a racing cam use the recomended setting.
     

  5. If it's quiet they are set wrong. lol
     
    The_Cat_Of_Ages likes this.
  6. George Miller
    Joined: Dec 26, 2008
    Posts: 413

    George Miller
    Member
    from NC usa

    I worked in a Ford garage in 57. .019 was what we used.
     
  7. 57 3100
    Joined: Apr 9, 2010
    Posts: 344

    57 3100
    Member

    thanks guys. .019" it is.
    and yes, its noisy. LOL. we just want to confirm its not any more than .019".

    leonard
     
  8. .019 or 0 lash and back off 1/4 turn is what I use unless it's a performance cam.
     
  9. George Miller
    Joined: Dec 26, 2008
    Posts: 413

    George Miller
    Member
    from NC usa

    Also make sure you are getting oil to the rockers, they were bad about pulling up. Can't tell you how many out side oil lines I have used years ago.
     
  10. 57 3100
    Joined: Apr 9, 2010
    Posts: 344

    57 3100
    Member

    sure will check for good oil up there...
    please explain "outside oil lines".

    leonard
     
  11. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,115

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    They were a fix for jurks that didn't keep there oil clean,was never needed if it was clean. it was kit the replace one bolt VC on each side and feed oil though inside of bolt to rockers from side of block.
     
  12. dullchrome
    Joined: Jan 15, 2009
    Posts: 987

    dullchrome
    Member
    from SoCal

    Thats pretty funny...LOL!
     
  13. 57 3100
    Joined: Apr 9, 2010
    Posts: 344

    57 3100
    Member

    thanks for the explanation dana...

    leonard
     
  14. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    I have set them at .019 on stock cam and anything other than stock I always go by what the cam maker tell you to set them at .
    I have also set them with the engine running then tighten down till the "tap" stops then turn back 1/4 turn . Either way is OK but I prefer the feeler gauge for setting the valves .
    Hope this helps .

    Retro Jim
     
  15. There is no need for external oilers, this is a stupid fix in my mind, you can usually fix it right just as easy as adding one of these. If you can't there is a need for more than a patch anyway.
     
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And it won't run right either. I tuned a Y-block for a customer recently that was set to zero-lash.

    Pull off a few at random, one-at-a-time, and inspect them for wear. If there is a pocket of wear in the rocker where the pushrod touches it, this will prevent proper adjustment with a feeler gauge. If they show wear, then a good machine shop can re-face them for pretty cheap.

    If you go for the re-face, mark them for position before you take them off, and put them back where they came from after.
     

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