My Generator is knocken and maken noise on my v8 55 chevy like it has a bad bearing. I just want to be done with it and go with a one wire Gm alt. I did a 6 volt to 12 volt conversion on my 51 chev and put a one wire gm alt on that. I had to get rid of the voltage regulater and connect the two big wires that went to the voltage regulater togather. My question is??? What do I have to do with the wires that go to the Generator To be able to use them with my alternator???? Instead of just running a wire off it to the battery??? Im sure you guys get my drift. Thats why im asking. Thanks ahead of time you guys are awsome!!!!!!
Good evening...wait...good morning, old soul. Kinda late, all good electrical gurus are in bed, I think. And I can't answer your question with confidence. Bump it up tomorrow after dinner time...you'll get some answers. The only thing I would suggest is that in my experience, even a 6-volt charging system with a generator will work very well if all components and connections are up to snuff. A couple of years ago, I took my stock '47 Hudson to my favorite starter/generator guy. He told me that if everything worked as it should, there should not even be any headlight dimming at idle. Sure enough...after he rebuilt my generator, and checked a few things, then fine-tuned the regulator on the car as it was running, all issues were gone, and my headlights even stayed perfectly bright at idle. You might consider doing the same, and keep your '55 as is...traditional. Good luck. Goodnight.
I have a diagram am Incould snail mail you. Don't know how to scan and email. Your dealing with the idiot light now instead of the amp gauge
I'd suggest using a 3 wire internal regulator alternator, like was used originally on most 1973-86 GM cars and trucks. Then you can keep your idiot light working. Unless you've changed the dash cluster and don't have the idiot light any more. Anyways, just wire the 3 wire alternator like this. The wire to the idiot light just goes to the idiot light, it's pretty darn simple.
You have to remove the generator and the regulator, and the wiring that goes between them. Then you'll see the two wires you need, ending where the regulator used to be. The big one is from the battery, the other is from the idiot light.
What car is the 55 engine in? Do you have a 55 Chevy or is it in the 50 Chevy in the Avatar? When you tell us what year engine you have without saying what year car it's in it confuses the issue as an alternator/generator doesn't really care what engine it is on as long as it has the right brackets to hold it on. I'm with Squirrel in that I would go with the standard three wire style alternator as apposed to the one wire. The three wires ones are all too easy to hook up and the main reason for running a one wire is so that you don't have wires showing everywhere. If a bad bearing is the only thing wrong with the generator you can probably replace that for under 10 bucks and an hours time. They aren't hard to work on and bearings and a set of brushes should be well under 20.00 total at any Napa store.
This is what I'd do. Unless you have a big stereo or air conditioning or some other big electrical load, there's nothing wrong with a generator and it will save you a lot of work.
Use that above wiring diagram and use an alternator of the years mentioned. Been running this set up in all my cars six 1987. Eliminate the ballast resistor, regulator, and generator. Also switch to an HEI distributor.
I don't have a 55 diagram but have a 56 one. On the 56 one the idiot light wire is the smaller 20 gauge brown wire on the generator. That wire goes to the #1 terminal on the alternator. Red 12 gauge from the stud on the alternator to the horn relay "B" terminal. Install jumper per Squirrel's diagram.
If you think you are tired of the generator just wait until you get the alternator, you will have a whole new set of problems. My advice would be to take it to a good generator repair shop and have them fix it right. The only reason generators have a bad rap is that most shops only fix what is broken and send it down the road for the next failure. You need a shop to completely rebuild the generator. Charlie Stephens
And just what is it you think is a whole new set of problems, when I was a kid everything I ran had a generator, can't count the times I slung the solder out of the commutator turning high rpm's. Alternators cured all that, and the integral regulated GM alternator is easy to hook up, and as easy to rebuild as a generator. I just fail to see the negatives you are claiming.
What else do you need to know? You said you don't want to use a generator and Squirrel told you how to wire the Alternator. Am I missing something?
I left the regulator on the fender well and even used the stock wiring. I used the regulator as a junction block. I moved the wires around so that the idiot light still worked. I hope the pic helps. I had used a "mr. gasket" chrome header mount. But I broke two of them. I finally scavenged a mount off of an inline six, a cast piece, and elongated the rear hole till the bolt lined up. I worked great and looked like a stock piece.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml You might want to take a look at this web site. Lots of info regarding 1-wire vs. 3-wire alt. They also sell a small wiring kit to do the conversion from a generator. I think Danchuk has these also.
Here is a video of my generator to alternator swap. Check it out. May help other folks. http://youtu.be/II-WP6sBCXU This is a video of all the stuff I needed for alternator upgrade so I had to make a video to show you all what I got. http://youtu.be/hgM0XiI_Dy4 enjoy Copyed the notes below from a site I used The Conversion with an Alternator 1.Disconnect the battery. 2.Remove the 12V generator. 3.Mount the Alternator. Brackets are available from various manufacturers. 4.Use a "DA Plug" which allows you to eliminate the old voltage regulator. Attach the short wire to the alternator post. Attach the long DA wire to the ignition switch so it is powered only when the switch is on. 5.Remove the voltage regulator, and connect the BATT wire to the wire that previously ran to the generator. Attach this to the alternator post (along with the short DA wire). 6.Use a coil with an internal resistor or install an ignition ballast resistor in the wire between the coil and the ignition switch. 8.Install the above listed Gas Gauge Voltage Reducer on the rear of the gauge. 9.Install the above listed Accessory Voltage Reducer in the wire between the heater and heater switch. 10.Reconnect the Battery and you're done!